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Old April 21st, 2010, 07:15 AM   #1
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130 AMP Alternator


If i go to napa and buy a 130 amp alternator for my 92 5.0 why would i need a new wiring or upgrade kit? shouldn't it be just fine to bolt in and go!? I am looking to get the 130 amp because i am installing U/D pullies and everyone says i will have charging issues.
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Old April 21st, 2010, 10:17 AM   #2
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didn't we just have a thread from you about this?

stock wiring will melt/fry because a stock alt put out 60 at most but you can try it if you'd like.
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Old April 21st, 2010, 11:26 AM   #3
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DUDE JUST GO TO PA PERFORMANCE.COM
THESE CARS ALREADY HAVE A KNOWN ISSUE WITH THE ALT SETTING CAR ON FIRE. DO YOU REALLY WANT TO PUSH THE ENVELOPE AND HAVE IT BLAZING.
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Old April 21st, 2010, 02:08 PM   #4
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yes i should got to PA perf. but i want to get it as cheap as possiable. i have read so many post on how to swap the wires and hook up a 94/94 3g alt. some say not to use the 2 black wires, just to cap them off. others say run it before the y and connect it to the alt. stud. and hook the white stator wire to the stator connection. and the other plug just plugs in. and then run a 4 gauage wire from the alt stud to the selonoid stud. SO what is the correct thing to do with the black and orange wires????????? i am going nuts here
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Old April 21st, 2010, 03:21 PM   #5
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Dude go to the junkyard and pull one from a 94/95 mustang or tbird and cut the harness off and grab that too. Go to a sterio store or walmart and purchase some 4 gauge wiring and maxi fuse holder/fuse and go at it. It's simple and you can either cut the orange/black wires and hide them or stripe them and attach them to the hot lug on the back of the alt where your 4 gauge power wire is going (which I suggest) Eitherway don't be a total jew and try to use the stock wiring or you'll be sorry.
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Old April 21st, 2010, 03:39 PM   #6
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got thanks a bunch
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Old April 21st, 2010, 03:40 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by flyin ryan View Post
Eitherway don't be a total jew and try to use the stock wiring or you'll be sorry.




damn
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8 sec 1/4 times are soo 2009. Im running 6 sec slips in my dd 302 pig with street tires
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Nah not even stock form. I just made it up.
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Old April 21st, 2010, 07:25 PM   #8
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okay was going great till i broke one of the ears off of my alt. brackett, i am so pissed. does any one know if the underdrive pulley for my 92 alt will fit the alternator on a 1995 130 amp?
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Old April 21st, 2010, 09:21 PM   #9
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Yes, it will fit.
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Old April 21st, 2010, 10:18 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by flyin ryan View Post
didn't we just have a thread from you about this?

stock wiring will melt/fry because a stock alt put out 60 at most but you can try it if you'd like.
I got a 200 amp on my explorer and the wiring on that is perfectly fine. Is there a different between those wires and a mustangs wires?
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Old April 22nd, 2010, 09:57 AM   #11
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The stock fox 2g alt wiring is a rig job of 2 10 gauge wires from the pigtail that is spliced into a single 10 gauge wire that runs to the solenoid. My 88 almost burned because of that wire splice. I was lucky enough that it melted enough that the splice fell apart and the burning stopped. That happened while the car was parked
The wire splice thing, although a rig job, is not as bad as the rig job where the pigtail attachs to the alt though, those two 10 gauge wires are attached to the alternator through some 1/4 lugs that corrode. All it takes is for one of the two lugs to have a problem from a sloppy crimp job with those cheap crimp terminals or a little corrosion which then overloads the other one and boom, flame on! The whole stock setup is an accident waiting to happen and once the average joe starts crimping new wires on or replacing pigtails without using electrical cleaner or some type dielectric grease to prevent corrosion, it gets worse.
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Old April 22nd, 2010, 09:57 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by nolife View Post
The stock fox 2g alt wiring is a rig job of 2 10 gauge wires from the pigtail that is spliced into a single 10 gauge wire that runs to the solenoid. My 88 almost burned because of that wire splice. I was lucky enough that it melted enough that the splice fell apart and the burning stopped. That happened while the car was parked
The wire splice thing, although a rig job, is not as bad as the rig job where the pigtail attachs to the alt though, those two 10 gauge wires are attached to the alternator through some 1/4 lugs that corrode. All it takes is for one of the two lugs to have a problem from a sloppy crimp job with those cheap crimp terminals or a little corrosion which then overloads the other one and boom, flame on! The whole stock setup is an accident waiting to happen and once the average joe starts crimping new wires on or replacing pigtails without using electrical cleaner or some type dielectric grease to prevent corrosion, it gets worse.
do they make an aftermarket harness thats a thicker gauge with the stock plugs on it?
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Old April 22nd, 2010, 10:29 PM   #13
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Maybe but the 2g alt still uses the crappy 1/4 inch spade connections so i don't think a better pigtail would help. The stud on the 3g and the other aftermarkets are a much better design. In my opinion, if your sticking with a 2g, always replace the pitail when replacing the alt and always use dielectric grease on the alt end, and use good sealed crimp terminals or solder in the other end to the single 10 gauge wire that runs back to the soleniod or better yet, run two new 10 gauge wires. Maybe I'm just paranoid but i've hadmore than one Ford with that design almost burn the car.
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Last edited by nolife; April 22nd, 2010 at 10:43 PM.
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Old April 22nd, 2010, 10:38 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by nolife View Post
Maybe but the 2g alt still uses the crappy 1/4 inch spade connections so i don't think a better pigtail would help. The stud on the 3g and the other aftermarkets are much better.
ill keep that in mind if I go to a bigger alternator on the stang
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Old April 22nd, 2010, 10:44 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by nolife View Post
Maybe but the 2g alt still uses the crappy 1/4 inch spade connections so i don't think a better pigtail would help. The stud on the 3g and the other aftermarkets are a much better design. In my opinion, if your sticking with a 2g, always replace the pitail when replacing the alt and always use dielectric grease on the alt end, and use good sealed crimp terminals or solder in the other end to the single 10 gauge wire that runs back to the soleniod or better yet, run two new 10 gauge wires. Maybe I'm just paranoid but i've hadmore than one Ford with that design almost burn the car.
you wouldnt happen to know the company that makes this nicer harness would ya?
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Old April 22nd, 2010, 10:51 PM   #16
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I've always got mine from a regular auto parts store. They may not be a better design but at least they are new and fresh and make good electrical contact compared to an old worn one.

These pics are linked to other sources but here is the 2g power connectors, notice the small spade connectors?



Here is a 3g, much better design.



Like what Flyingryan said, don't risk using the stock wiring on a conversion, even though the 3g has a better stud, the stock wiring back to the bat is crappy as well. If staying with a 2g, use caution and replace the pigtail harness correctly.
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Last edited by nolife; April 23rd, 2010 at 08:58 AM.
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