1st Mustang 1990 GT Convertible - Page 3
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Old March 9th, 2011, 10:40 PM   1 links from elsewhere to this Post. Click to view. #41
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thanks ryanw........your forum is gonna help alot

fogged306....not gonna lie this is my first time at being a mechanic .......However i screwed the connect all the way in the spark plug hole and tested 2 times with the same o compression ...........Number eight only gave me 90 also were all other cylinders averaged 145-150

It may be a rocker issue due to when i first got the car I had to tighten some down that weren't properly installed .......

Being that I don't know what my buddy did to it when he overheated the car on the way to work i figured taking the engine out and putting all new gaskets, cam bearing and rings couldn't hurt on a car that has 100,000 miles .........

This is a car I will always have and just want to make sure i have a good running engine ....
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Old March 9th, 2011, 11:19 PM   #43
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ImageShack® - Online Photo and Video Hosting

Sorry for the crappy cell phone pics
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Old March 9th, 2011, 11:27 PM   #44
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Originally Posted by rivet711 View Post








Fixed. Just click on the 'embed this image' button to the right of the photo, and then copy and past the image code for 'Forum'
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Last edited by FastStang91Lx; March 9th, 2011 at 11:48 PM.
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Old March 9th, 2011, 11:44 PM   #45
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thats much better
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DART 331ci stroker, AFR 185 heads,
Trick Flow R intake,
Accufab 70mm tb, 75mm pro m Maf, 30lb injectors,
jba headers, 2 1/2" x pipe
flowmaster super 10 mufflers,
255 fuel pump,
3:27 gears
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Old March 9th, 2011, 11:50 PM   #46
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your car is pretty clean, i got to say it
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DART 331ci stroker, AFR 185 heads,
Trick Flow R intake,
Accufab 70mm tb, 75mm pro m Maf, 30lb injectors,
jba headers, 2 1/2" x pipe
flowmaster super 10 mufflers,
255 fuel pump,
3:27 gears
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Old March 10th, 2011, 01:21 AM   #47
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Thanks ryanw .............Main things I need to do is replace the convertible frame, top and motor .............The frame is broken on both sides and the top is beyond worn and the motor is shot.

The interior needs allot of TLC .....The drivers side seat frame leans to the right ....I assume the frame is bent or broken .......The dashboard needs replaced it is damaged and some body wired toggle switches for the headlights and running lights......

Carpet needs replaced along with speaker grills and other interior plastics that need a good cleaning and painting ............

As far as body .....The drivers side is missing the bottom ground effects ....the rear bumper has a tear in it at the bottom .....front fender has a nice dent on the top of it .....and the car badly needs tires

But the issue I am addressing first is the car smoking after 20 minutes and cylinder 4 having no compression along with the spark plug being wet....

All in all i think for a 1st time rebuild I am pretty lucky to have a car in this good of shape
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Old August 17th, 2011, 01:44 AM   #48
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***Update***

Well guys it has been a while hope all is well with everyone ..............As most of you know this rebuild is dedicated to my brother I lost last year and this was one of his Pony's his mom gave to me to remember him by.........

Been busy with having my first son and work and haven't done much to the car .........I pulled the spark plugs out and did a compression check with a kit from harbor frieght because after 20 minutes the car blows white smoke .....The two back cylinders were reading zero psi

So the car sits waiting for me to pull the heads and see what the problem is .........Well a customer of mine came to me last week telling me he is getting divorced and selling all his cars .........He pulled a 306 out of a old LTD yesterday with 1500 miles and offered it to me for $600..........I grabbed it

This is what I know ..........Remember I am a 1st time mechanic

1. 302 Tappet block bored 30 over with flat top domed pistons
2. Stock 302 heads port and polished
3. 7 quart canton oil pan and pickup
4. Roller rockers
5. Double roller timing chain

He unsure about the cam but he states the motor has 1500 miles on it and he runs 14's in a late model ford ltd

He is offering for his buddy's shop to install it for $650........that included removing mine and putting his in and making it start ready ............All i have to supply is my valve covers, upper and lower intake along with upper and lower gaskets, 7 quarts oil, 2 quarts anti freeze and pilot bearing due to his car was aod

I am uninstalling my upper and lower along with valve covers tomorrow morning and taking them to him so he can pre install it in hopes of knocking down some of the install price .......Then he is coming with his tailor Thursday and helping me get my car to his friends shop .

what do u guys think is it a good deal and a solid motor .........Figured I will buy a engine stand and tear down my old one and build a nice engine
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Old August 17th, 2011, 11:33 AM   #49
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Any feedback or input is appreciated...........Getting ready to attempt to remove the upper and lower intake in about 30 minutes so i can get them over to the new motor for install
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Old August 17th, 2011, 12:41 PM   #50
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Originally Posted by cleangtvert View Post
no battery vent? Is that because you figure you don't need it w a soft top? Suprised you aren't rockin a optima.
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Originally Posted by 302Army187 View Post
old 5.0's are like a box of chocolates.......... never know what your gonna get
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Old August 17th, 2011, 11:53 PM   #51
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Well was able to get the upper in take off today and attempt to disconnect the fuel rails ...........I bought the tool, watched a video and it still won't come off .........O well gonna leave it for the installer ........however I will have him show me ...

My buddy will be here with his trailer tomorrow around 12 and it is off to have the engine swapped.........

Some one told me being that it is a 306 i may need to have my computer updated to increase the spray from the injectors or the engine will run to hot is that true ....
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Old August 19th, 2011, 02:14 AM   #52
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So after 2 days no reply to any of my new updates ..........Is my forum that boring or has this website lost allot of member's...

Either way thanks for looking .........
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Old August 21st, 2011, 12:31 PM   #53
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Originally Posted by jessemachone View Post
no battery vent? Is that because you figure you don't need it w a soft top? Suprised you aren't rockin a optima.
no vent needed. thats a A.G.M. (absorbed glass matt) battery. optima can lick my nut sack! this battery is hands down better than anything optima makes. optima went to shit about five years ago. their warrenty sucks and so do their batterys, the platnum batterys are made by eng-syn.they are the same parent company that makes oddesy batterys. they are the exact same as oddesy just in a grey case. the warrenty is awsome also. 4years free replacment 8 years pro-rated nationwide. i'll beat the drum about these vers optima all day long!
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Old August 21st, 2011, 01:54 PM   #54
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Originally Posted by rivet711 View Post
Well was able to get the upper in take off today and attempt to disconnect the fuel rails ...........I bought the tool, watched a video and it still won't come off .........O well gonna leave it for the installer ........however I will have him show me ...

My buddy will be here with his trailer tomorrow around 12 and it is off to have the engine swapped.........

Some one told me being that it is a 306 i may need to have my computer updated to increase the spray from the injectors or the engine will run to hot is that true ....
Put a little more stank on it and those fuel fittings will come off. They feel like you're going to break them when you pull ones that haven't been apart in a while.

Whoever told you that you're going to need a tune because of 4 more cubes is someone you should never listen to about car advice again.
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Old September 8th, 2011, 08:56 PM   #55
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Hi rivet,
I ran across your thread and would like to add a couple comments.
First, I am very sorry to read about your friend, I lost a couple the same way over the years and it never seems right when something like that happens. I am just thankful that with some of the dangerous things I did in my younger years, I am still around.
Reading through the thread, I would like to add something about batteries and charging systems. As one post mentioned, once you get the engine sorted, you may want to look into the 130amp upgrade. Modern electrical systems require a lot of amperage and sometimes older systems just can not keep up, especially if you add a stereo later. Another thing to look for in a used vehicle that little is known about its history is to be sure you have the original size pulleys on the engine. Sometimes those are changed to increase power however that can adversely affect the charging system. Once you get it running, just have someone check the charging system and make sure it is putting out the proper voltage at idle.
Also, regardless of battery choice, be sure to always buy a ventable battery and properly vent it if you move the battery to the interior or into the trunk. Optima's Group 27,51,78,34C &31 batteries all have provisions for external venting and for your safety it is just a no brainer. If you did have an unvented battery that was for some reason overcharged and released gases or leaked acid, the results could be harmful to you and your passengers. If you have any other questions about our products, feel free to ask.
Thanks,
Bill Howell
eCare Manager, OPTIMA Batteries, Inc.
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Old September 9th, 2011, 06:55 AM   #56
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you couldnt give me another optima battery!
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