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Old June 8th, 2010, 06:54 PM   1 links from elsewhere to this Post. Click to view. #1
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Help 92 Gt Dying While Driving


OK all you guys and girls that have been messing with these cars for years just like i have , someone has had to have the same thing happen.

its a 92 gt runs great until going down the road just dies with no warning or anything some time it does it in about 3 miles from the house then other times it will do after about 30 miles it has no rhyme or reason just shuts off. sometimes it will start right back other times i will have to wait 10-20 min.

i have replaced fuel pump, fp relay, eec relay, distributor, ign. module, coil, ign. switch, it seems like a ign problem but out of all the most common parts that go bad non of them have fixed the problem, but it does it so sparatic i cant do anything to make it screw up it just does.

i ran the car all day sat. never messed up drove it home from my parents and never screwed up and that was about 50 miles of driving. monday it died on the way to work. if i had hair i would pull it out this car is pissing me off.

please help
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Old June 8th, 2010, 06:56 PM   #2
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check all your grounds, specifically your starter.
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Old June 9th, 2010, 02:47 PM   #3
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do you have a cam in it cuz that can be why mine use to do that cuz the cam was to big
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Old June 9th, 2010, 03:20 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by usmc33 View Post
do you have a cam in it cuz that can be why mine use to do that cuz the cam was to big
I hope you are kidding...
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Old June 9th, 2010, 06:31 PM   #5
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I have an f303 but been in the car for about 5 years now so i dont think thats the issue
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Old June 11th, 2010, 02:03 AM   #6
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my 91 did that right after I bought it and it was the dwell module on the side of the distributor. I replaced it 3 times before I got a good one that didnt do it. Be sure you use the grease that comes with it....stops the heat/ voltage from screwing it up. Used an after market one from Performance Distributors and havn't had a problem since.
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Old June 11th, 2010, 06:50 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by GTNBY2 View Post
my 91 did that right after I bought it and it was the dwell module on the side of the distributor. I replaced it 3 times before I got a good one that didnt do it. Be sure you use the grease that comes with it....stops the heat/ voltage from screwing it up. Used an after market one from Performance Distributors and havn't had a problem since.
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Old June 11th, 2010, 01:52 PM   #8
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Thanks guys i will try another module after work and see if its the problem and if so i will get a goooooood one from perf. dist. company. i have checked into them before but never followed through
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Old June 11th, 2010, 02:07 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by WHT306 View Post
Thanks guys i will try another module after work and see if its the problem and if so i will get a goooooood one from perf. dist. company. i have checked into them before but never followed through
i got an accel one. but its recommended to get a brand new motorcraft one from ford
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Old June 11th, 2010, 05:28 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by WHT306 View Post
OK all you guys and girls that have been messing with these cars for years just like i have , someone has had to have the same thing happen.

its a 92 gt runs great until going down the road just dies with no warning or anything some time it does it in about 3 miles from the house then other times it will do after about 30 miles it has no rhyme or reason just shuts off. sometimes it will start right back other times i will have to wait 10-20 min.

i have replaced fuel pump, fp relay, eec relay, distributor, ign. module, coil, ign. switch, it seems like a ign problem but out of all the most common parts that go bad non of them have fixed the problem, but it does it so sparatic i cant do anything to make it screw up it just does.

i ran the car all day sat. never messed up drove it home from my parents and never screwed up and that was about 50 miles of driving. monday it died on the way to work. if i had hair i would pull it out this car is pissing me off.

please help

Other possiblilities are grounds and the computer.
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Old June 11th, 2010, 05:29 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by usmc33 View Post
do you have a cam in it cuz that can be why mine use to do that cuz the cam was to big
Negative. A cam will not cause this issue. Your problem was not the cam, it was something else.
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Old June 11th, 2010, 06:21 PM   #12
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Well I Will Find Out This Weekend Or Tonight
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Old June 13th, 2010, 01:23 AM   #13
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ok well i tried new ign. module x2 ign. switch x2 checked all grounds and any other wire i could check and checked for spark when it did it and got spark not a good blue spark but a spark bypassed inertia switch checked coil ohms and voltage to make sure switch is working. i have come to the conclusion that the new reman dist. may be faulty and will get another in the morning and see if i can get it to happen again. if not that will check wires to module, ign switch and possibly replace computer car still driving me insane!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old June 13th, 2010, 05:05 AM   #14
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remand distributors have caused hell with many people including myself. swallow the price and get a new motorcraft one
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Old June 21st, 2010, 09:32 AM   #15
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OK here are the codes with car running 94 44 33

now here are the codes with key on eng off
11 11 18 22 29 33 63 66 87 96

i was running codes every time eng running so today after the car did it again i ran the codes with key on eng off i have replaced ign mod, coil, pick up coil, map, ign switch, f.p., f.p. relay, eec relay,spout and connector, and tps all the codes point to the computer or harness correct , and i dont know if this has anything to do with it i drove it almost 50 miles when it was cool out after a good t-storm now at about 5 pm i drove it it cut out 3 times within 5 miles seems to do it more when its very hot and humid its about 95-100 degrees with heat index and humidity please any info would be greatly appriciated im tired of driving a chevy while its down.
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Old June 21st, 2010, 11:27 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by WHT306 View Post
OK here are the codes with car running 94 44 33

now here are the codes with key on eng off
11 11 18 22 29 33 63 66 87 96

i was running codes every time eng running so today after the car did it again i ran the codes with key on eng off i have replaced ign mod, coil, pick up coil, map, ign switch, f.p., f.p. relay, eec relay,spout and connector, and tps all the codes point to the computer or harness correct , and i dont know if this has anything to do with it i drove it almost 50 miles when it was cool out after a good t-storm now at about 5 pm i drove it it cut out 3 times within 5 miles seems to do it more when its very hot and humid its about 95-100 degrees with heat index and humidity please any info would be greatly appriciated im tired of driving a chevy while its down.
I'm leaning toward a bad computer or bad ground because you are pulling codes for a variety of sensors which are likely to not all fail at the same time. The computer sends 5 volts to each sensor. The sensor then returns voltage to the computer so the computer knows what is going on. If that voltage isn't present or the computer isn't reading it, then multiple codes will come up because the computer is going to think that sensor is bad. The first thing I would do is probe some pins on the computer.

Here are some things to check. With the key on check the red reference voltage wire on the TPS, Baro and EGR valve position sensors. The voltage should be 5 volts.

Check the wire at pin 1 for 12 volts. Verify with an volt/ohm meter that the wires at pins 40 and 60 are grounded. Pins 40 and 60 are grounded directly to the negative battery cable. There is another small ground coming off the negative side that has a strange connector about 10 inches or so down the wire. This is the EEC relay ground. Check that too. There is also a ground on the firewall that comes out of the wiring harness on the engine. This is the HEGO ground but check it anyway. Check pin 46 with the key in the run position. If my memory serves me correct there should be about 3 volts here. If all of this checks out then I believe you have a bad computer.
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Old June 23rd, 2010, 12:21 PM   #17
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Well the computer is bad i did all the checks and every thing was fine so i pulled the computer opened the case and the capacitor was fried on pin 37 which supplies the power to everything now i cant find anyone that can get a e9zf aa (a9l) computer new, reman nothing around here.

So now i have found the problem i cant fix the problem

Thanks for all of your help with this.
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Old June 23rd, 2010, 12:27 PM   #18
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throw in an a9p if you can find one, they seem easier to come by and yes your car will start and run fine
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Old June 23rd, 2010, 01:23 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by 93hatch View Post
throw in an a9p if you can find one, they seem easier to come by and yes your car will start and run fine
x2 they are virtually the same.. some say the a9p has slightly more aggressive timing curve to it but even if it does it's not noticeable.
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Old June 23rd, 2010, 03:04 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by WHT306 View Post
Well the computer is bad i did all the checks and every thing was fine so i pulled the computer opened the case and the capacitor was fried on pin 37 which supplies the power to everything now i cant find anyone that can get a e9zf aa (a9l) computer new, reman nothing around here.

So now i have found the problem i cant fix the problem

Thanks for all of your help with this.
Must not be looking too hard. AutoZone.com | Vehicle Selection | Year

A9L and A9P computers are easy to come by.
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