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Old August 3rd, 2010, 03:24 PM   #1
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Engine Rebuild


Hey guys I decided I want to rebuild an engine to put in my 93 GT. The question I have is would it be better to get a used engine from the salvage yard for about $800, strip it down and rebuild it from the bottom up or should I save up $3,500 and get a 306 already rebuilt from ford racing? I dont know a whole lot about rebuild except what parts need to be changed. When it come to getting the block machined I am lost. Please help me out. Thanks
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Old August 3rd, 2010, 03:51 PM   #2
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go get a junkyard motor out of a lincon or crown vic, just go on half off day
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Old August 3rd, 2010, 04:41 PM   #3
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800 buck for a yard motor your yards must be run by gangsters or something i can get a running 5.0l pulled for me for less then 200 bucks
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Old August 3rd, 2010, 09:17 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by 94bossgt View Post
800 buck for a yard motor your yards must be run by gangsters or something i can get a running 5.0l pulled for me for less then 200 bucks
Yeah its a mustang salvage yard. Thats the thing though I dont really know whats a good price so thats why I come here to holler at you guys.
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Old August 3rd, 2010, 09:29 PM   #5
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$800 is way, way too much to pay for a rebuilder engine. If you're not experianced in engine rebuilding, just get a crate engine and bolt it in!
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Old August 3rd, 2010, 09:48 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by horsepowerjunkie View Post
$800 is way, way too much to pay for a rebuilder engine. If you're not experianced in engine rebuilding, just get a crate engine and bolt it in!
Here check this out. Ive been looking at these kits from Performance Automotive Warehouse. This particular kit is $1895. What do you think?
SHORT BLOCK KIT

BLOCK - New Ford Standard Bore Block with 1-piece rear main seal. Honed for moly rings. Block will accept either front dipstick or side dipstick. Block has tall lifter bores which will accept factory hydraulic roller lifters. Block will accept only clutch cable-activated clutch systems. Optional early 4-speed clutch pivot ball available - phone. Block clearanced for stroker crank.
CRANKSHAFT - New custom ground cast-steel crankshaft 3.250" stroke designed to run 1-piece rear main seal. Micropolished with oil holes chamfered.
RODS - New PAR-SR I-Beam forged 5140 steel connecting rods 5.400" long. New ARP 3/8" chrome moly rod bolts. Bushed for floating .927" wrist pins.
PISTONS - New Keith Black hypereutectic pistons. Pistons feature a 5/64 x 5/64 x 3/16 ring grooves.

KBP 355- Dish piston
Apx 9.7 w/60cc head
Apx 8.0 w/69cc head

Optional custom forged pistons available - phone.

RINGS - New Moly faced top compression ring w/premium stainless oil ring.
BEARINGS - New Clevite M77 Tri-metal bearings to match crankshaft.
CAMSHAFT - Your choice of a NEW PAW / SSI performance flat torquer hydraulic camshaft Specify if vehicle is computer-controlled, emissions-controlled vehicle with or without computer on a non-emissions controlled vehicle (off-road use only). New hydraulic H.O. roller cam available as an option.
TIMING CHAIN SET - New P.A.W. hi performance double roller timing chain set. Specify 1- or 2-pc fuel pump eccentric.
BALANCED - Complete rotation assembly is electronically balanced. Pistons come fitted to rods.
NOTE: '68-'80 - Requires 28 oz. damper & flexplate or flywheel. '81- Later - Requires 50 oz. damper & flexplate or flywheel. These parts are available as options. Phone for prices

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Old August 3rd, 2010, 10:20 PM   #7
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http://www.fordstrokers.com
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Old August 3rd, 2010, 11:12 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by fogged306 View Post
http://www.fordstrokers.com
Thanks for the referral. I think Im gonna get a block from Woody. Should I go 331, 347 or just the 302 bare block in my 93 GT?
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Old August 3rd, 2010, 11:18 PM   #9
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That depends on the top-end you are putting on it and the plans for the car. There's no real reason to go 331 over 347 if you are building a stroker.
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Old August 3rd, 2010, 11:24 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by fogged306 View Post
That depends on the top-end you are putting on it and the plans for the car. There's no real reason to go 331 over 347 if you are building a stroker.
There is a trick flow kit I want to get that includes upper and lower intake, camshaft, timing chain and trickflow heads.
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Old August 3rd, 2010, 11:27 PM   #11
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The Trick Flow kit is excellent. I'd go with the track heat over the street heat. The intake has a little more RPM range!
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Old August 3rd, 2010, 11:35 PM   #12
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Cool. Im finally starting to figure this engine building thing out. A 347 should be a good fit though right?
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Old August 3rd, 2010, 11:37 PM   #13
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Well , like I said, the goals for the car are something you want to consider before you get any top-end kit. if it were me I would do TF heads and intake with a custom cam (if thats the route you end up going). you can make a lot more power with a better cam than those TFS stage cams, even though they were designed for the kit. I know that doesn't sound right, but it's true.
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Old August 3rd, 2010, 11:40 PM   #14
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My goal is to build an engine that can withstand being boosted. After building the block I want to either put a supercharger or a twin turbo setup.
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Old August 4th, 2010, 12:15 AM   #15
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If that's the case, then make sure you specify that with woody before you order the shortblock. And make sure you tell him your plans for the car and what top end you're thinking about going with. He can point you in the right direction better than anyone on this forum can, his daily job is to make fords go fast.
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Old August 4th, 2010, 02:09 AM   #16
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Thanks. I appreciate it.
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Old August 4th, 2010, 11:07 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by bigcurt444 View Post
Hey guys I decided I want to rebuild an engine to put in my 93 GT. The question I have is would it be better to get a used engine from the salvage yard for about $800, strip it down and rebuild it from the bottom up or should I save up $3,500 and get a 306 already rebuilt from ford racing? I dont know a whole lot about rebuild except what parts need to be changed. When it come to getting the block machined I am lost. Please help me out. Thanks
Way too much.

Originally Posted by bigcurt444 View Post
Here check this out. Ive been looking at these kits from Performance Automotive Warehouse. This particular kit is $1895. What do you think?
SHORT BLOCK KIT

BLOCK - New Ford Standard Bore Block with 1-piece rear main seal. Honed for moly rings. Block will accept either front dipstick or side dipstick. Block has tall lifter bores which will accept factory hydraulic roller lifters. Block will accept only clutch cable-activated clutch systems. Optional early 4-speed clutch pivot ball available - phone. Block clearanced for stroker crank.
CRANKSHAFT - New custom ground cast-steel crankshaft 3.250" stroke designed to run 1-piece rear main seal. Micropolished with oil holes chamfered.
RODS - New PAR-SR I-Beam forged 5140 steel connecting rods 5.400" long. New ARP 3/8" chrome moly rod bolts. Bushed for floating .927" wrist pins.
PISTONS - New Keith Black hypereutectic pistons. Pistons feature a 5/64 x 5/64 x 3/16 ring grooves.

KBP 355- Dish piston
Apx 9.7 w/60cc head
Apx 8.0 w/69cc head

Optional custom forged pistons available - phone.

RINGS - New Moly faced top compression ring w/premium stainless oil ring.
BEARINGS - New Clevite M77 Tri-metal bearings to match crankshaft.
CAMSHAFT - Your choice of a NEW PAW / SSI performance flat torquer hydraulic camshaft Specify if vehicle is computer-controlled, emissions-controlled vehicle with or without computer on a non-emissions controlled vehicle (off-road use only). New hydraulic H.O. roller cam available as an option.
TIMING CHAIN SET - New P.A.W. hi performance double roller timing chain set. Specify 1- or 2-pc fuel pump eccentric.
BALANCED - Complete rotation assembly is electronically balanced. Pistons come fitted to rods.
NOTE: '68-'80 - Requires 28 oz. damper & flexplate or flywheel. '81- Later - Requires 50 oz. damper & flexplate or flywheel. These parts are available as options. Phone for prices


Don't buy that kit!
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Old August 4th, 2010, 06:22 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by 1slo5.0 View Post
Way too much.




Don't buy that kit!
Im gonna go with a block from ford strokers instead of the kit above.
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Old August 4th, 2010, 07:01 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by bigcurt444 View Post
Im gonna go with a block from ford strokers instead of the kit above.
Good choice. Woody is a heck of a guy.
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My daily driver has 16 cylinders and 4400hp @ 1000 rpm....


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Old August 6th, 2010, 12:03 AM   #20
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Im also considering a crate engine from ford racing. Probably a 302 thats built with some heavy duty internals like steel crank, forged pistons and rods etc. Should make 340hp delivered then probably close to 600 after I put the intake and turbo/supercharger. My goal is to get to 500HP I just want an engine that will be able to take all the additions I add.
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