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#1 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
1992 Mustang LX
13.0 @ 105
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: New York
Posts: 2,230
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New combo
Hey guys, I'm going to be making more money soon and I want a whole new combo. I want to get an aftermarket 347 shortblock and build it for a power adder. My questions are this: what power adder will be most efficient? Also, I am looking to grudge race with this car, what is the best inline head out there?Lastly, what block should I get? Thanks. Forgot to mention I want a streetcar too
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As I lay rubber down the street I pray for traction I can keep But if I spin, and begin to slide Please dear God, protect my ride |
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#2 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
1992 Mustang LX
13.0 @ 105
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: New York
Posts: 2,230
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i was thinking about starting off with this Ford Racing M-6009-Z347 - Ford Racing 347 C.I.D. Stroker Short Block Engine Assemblies - Overview - SummitRacing.com and then add some good inline heads (angle job and porting done) and a custom ground cam. Any recommendations on heads/intake?
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As I lay rubber down the street I pray for traction I can keep But if I spin, and begin to slide Please dear God, protect my ride |
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#3 |
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I Post Entirely Way Too Much
1991 Mustang LX 5.0
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 5,572
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Holy waste of money, Batman!!!.... I'd rethink that all together, I'm sure most shops wouldn't even charge near that much to build it for you if you can't yourself.
Oh, yeah.... if you HAVE to go inline head... AFR, I guess. Why inline, by the way?
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Point made in less than a few hours with minimal response. http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums...ml#post4465184 |
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#4 |
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MM Fanatic
89 GT
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: NY
Posts: 4,875
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I can't believe that they are selling those engines.. unless they changed the block, last time I checked, 347's in the boss blocks weren't a good idea. The cylinders are .350 shorter so you have a lot of skirt sticking out at the bottom of the stroke when you go with a 3.4" This equates to more piston rock. For that money, I would go dart.
For heads, check out TEA.. Highports are nice. |
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#5 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
1992 Mustang LX
13.0 @ 105
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: New York
Posts: 2,230
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Inline heads because i want to grudge race with this car/motor. Usually people stip their cars to standard degree heads so i would be on even ground with them. I'll also check out darts blocks...i just don't have a clue on where to start with stroker blocks.
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As I lay rubber down the street I pray for traction I can keep But if I spin, and begin to slide Please dear God, protect my ride |
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#6 |
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MM Fanatic
89 GT
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: NY
Posts: 4,875
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Check out fordstrokers.com. Look around on the mustang forums, or google "woody" or fordstrokers. There's tons of happy customers, and from what I've seen, they have good reason. He seems to do top notch work and is reasonably priced.
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#7 |
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Enthusiast
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get you a dart block, some good forged internals, and a shop to assemble the lower end of the engine. then slap on heads cam and intake yourself. sounds like you have some cash to throw around considering the engine you picked out from summit.
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1988 vert - still in progress 2004 F250 |
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#8 |
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Banned
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Phoenix,AZ
Posts: 3,014
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Highports are inline
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PeteAndersonRacing.com |
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#9 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
1992 Mustang LX
13.0 @ 105
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: New York
Posts: 2,230
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I never disputed that....I'm thinking about adding a turbo to this combo with some worked afr's. Add a custom cam and intake (appropriate injectors MAF etc..) and I'm hoping for a 9 second streetable car. Sound unreasonable?
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As I lay rubber down the street I pray for traction I can keep But if I spin, and begin to slide Please dear God, protect my ride |
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#10 |
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Banned
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Phoenix,AZ
Posts: 3,014
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U tell me...
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PeteAndersonRacing.com |
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#11 | ||||
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MM Ninjas!
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I don't understand this logic. Define even ground. Why don't you just go bracket race then? This is drag racing son. Its not about giving someone a fair chance, its all about getting to the finish line first. If you are insistent on making less horsepower and running heads with stock valve angles and such, then don't worry about a Dart block because you aren't going to need it. I agree.
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My daily driver has 16 cylinders and 4400hp @ 1000 rpm.... ![]() ***1988 Mustang GT - Stock....almost
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#12 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
1992 Mustang LX
13.0 @ 105
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: New York
Posts: 2,230
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Ok. Here's a new approach. I don't want specific power numbers, just a 9 second street car. I'll go with canted heads; since they make more power. I do have an idea of what a 9 second vehicle costs. I would need all new suspension,transmission,rear end,block,heads etc. And at 9 seconds i would need a cage also correct? I've never been to a track so i don't know. Next year I am going to be making more money (30,000-50,000 a year) so i want to build a nice street car. It would also be cool to be able to take 1,000cc motorcycles from a dig (on average they run 9.70's). Give me a good block to start from and some heads then i will have an idea of what to look for. Cams...Go with Jay Allen? I've heard good things about him on here. Keep in mind i also want to turbo charge this motor. Thanks guys.
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As I lay rubber down the street I pray for traction I can keep But if I spin, and begin to slide Please dear God, protect my ride |
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#13 |
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I Post Entirely Way Too Much
1991 Mustang LX 5.0
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 5,572
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I think he's shooting for 9's in the 1/8th....
9 second DD are very expensive.... I would go turbo if I was looking to keep it steet friendly, but getting a tuner that knows what the hell he is doing when it comes to a 9 second streeter... that's another thing. Can be done, but it's gonna take alot more than you think. Hope you still live at home and are making the higher end of you wage guess.
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Point made in less than a few hours with minimal response. http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums...ml#post4465184 |
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#14 | |
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MM Fanatic
1990 LX hatch
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Hobart Indiana
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i'd say about 12-16K if you already have the car.
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![]() Bolt-on Abraham Lincoln Log motor. With extra wiring. |
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#15 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
1992 Mustang LX
13.0 @ 105
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: New York
Posts: 2,230
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i estimated a little higher...good to have an idea.
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As I lay rubber down the street I pray for traction I can keep But if I spin, and begin to slide Please dear God, protect my ride |
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#16 |
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I Post Entirely Way Too Much
1991 Mustang LX 5.0
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 5,572
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I say higher too... That would be for a high nine car at best.
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Point made in less than a few hours with minimal response. http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums...ml#post4465184 |
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#17 |
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Banned
1988 Mustang Notch
it's a bad bitch..i promise
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Chicago
Posts: 980
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why 347? why are you kids so stuck on 306/331/347 ? ever heard of 363s ? how about 408s? 427s? come on!!! build some real shit. and the sad part in todays economy, what u spend to build one, you can go buy a turn key 10/9 sec car!!!! use your brain.
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#18 |
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I Post Entirely Way Too Much
1991 Mustang LX 5.0
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 5,572
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Cuz I take pride in knowing that I put my car together, not bought it that way. And I have enough brains to know that the bigger the motor.... the WAY more expensive it gets. That's what stops most people from the 351 based strokers and the aftermarket 302 blocks that will get them to 363.
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Point made in less than a few hours with minimal response. http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums...ml#post4465184 |
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#19 | |
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Banned
1988 Mustang Notch
it's a bad bitch..i promise
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Chicago
Posts: 980
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#20 |
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MM Fanatic
89 GT
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: NY
Posts: 4,875
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While I agree that more cubes can be had for not a whole lot more money, I definitely disagree with just buying a car that's already done. Buying someone elses junk is for someone who just wants to get their rocks off. Building an engine/chassis from scratch with nothing but your own knowledge and talent is what this hobby is all about. I want to know that when I win, it was because I took the extra time to set my valvetrain geometry, made sure my springs were close enough to coil bind to help stabilize the valves, set my instant center right, matched my intake, cam, heads, and collector the right way, ect.. used my brain instead of my wallet.
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