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#1 |
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Regular
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Need help removing starter motor
No article I've read seems to be comprehensive enough, so as a last resort this is my shot at getting my questions addressed directly. I have a 5.0 with long tube headers. From above the engine, all I see is what I think is the mounting arm of the starter motor, extending out of the transmission's bell housing. From under the car I can't pinpoint a thing. Bare with me as this is my very first take at doing anything related with mechanics, but I'm good with tools and I'm determined.
1) Since my headers are long tube, I suppose they HAVE to be removed? They do seem to get in the way of everything 2) Is removing the headers a straight-forward unbolting procedure for this specific task? Or do I have to worry about things I've read in header removal threads like the EGR and whatnot? Those guys wanted to replace headers, not only get them out of the way 3) After unbolting can I just set them aside or do i have to remove them entirely from the engine bay? 4) Would a torque wrench be absolutely necessary? Or can I just count how many rotations it took to loosen the starter motor bolts? 5) Can any of this be done from above? Or is it a necessity to crawl under? Thanks in advance and sorry if any of this was answered before, I'm just a little nervous seeing that this is my very first take. |
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#2 |
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The Big Spoon
88 5.0 5 Speed Notch <><
never fast enough
Join Date: Mar 2008
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I have never done this job on a ford with long tubes. With shorties, it is a straight forward and easy procedure. Unbolting your headers and moving them out of the way doesn't sound like a bad idea in order to gain some more room to work. (remove your spark plugs first so you don't decapitate one with the header.) I wouldn't bother with taking the header all the way out, I would just loosen it and tie it out of the way.
I don't think that there is a bracket supporting the starter. They are usually bolted to the bell housing with 2 bolts. one on top and one on the bottom. You may be seeing the starter cable and think it is a bracket.
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Black Stang Crew Last edited by jessemachone; November 8th, 2010 at 07:57 AM. Reason: grammar police |
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#3 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
91 Mustang GT
1991 sliver GT
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You need a long extension to reach the top bolt. If you dont have that your gonna be shit outta luck. The bottom can be done with a 3" extension and you should be good. I had long tubes on my race motor and thats what i had to do.
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#4 |
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Enthusiast
1990 mustang gt
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You have to remove the starter from under the car. I've removed mine twice (I have shorty headers) and I tighten it without a torque wrench. No problems yet. The starter is just 2 bolts and there is one bolt for the wire.
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Burning Rubber in the 5.0 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mKGSmRkKQcM95 95 mark8 lsc 95 tbird v8 90 mustang gt 07 silverado v8 08 yamaha r6 to be continued........ foxbodyperformance.com is the way to go |
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#5 |
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Enthusiast
1993 Mustang LX
my dog runs faster...
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I used 12", 6", and a 3" extension and a swivel (all together) to get to the top bolt and went through my A-arm. the bottom one is easy and out in the open. The top one can be a little bit of a bitch, but just take your time and don't get frustrated...easier said than done!
You should be able to get to it without removing your headers.
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#6 |
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Banned
1992 Lx
11.39@119.24
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top bolt from above the motor, easy as shit to get to, bottom bolt I can get off without even jacking my car up. Lay on the floor next to the car and reach up there with a small rachet, easy to get to. And yes my car has long tubes
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[QUOTE=93mustank;2577445]We speed tested my right arm for quickness in shifts... So he could design the cam for proper shift recovery.[/QUOTE] |
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#7 |
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Regular
95 mustang gt
???
Join Date: Feb 2010
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i have an 84 gt with headman longtubes and i have to unbolt the motor mount jack the motor up a little and then pull the header off then starter removal is simple and i have never used a torque wrench for a starter just put them in tight but dont stripe the threads in the bellhousing
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#8 | |
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The Big Spoon
88 5.0 5 Speed Notch <><
never fast enough
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you're my hero ![]() thread jack complete
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#9 |
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Banned
1992 Lx
11.39@119.24
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My cars a lil lower than stock, I've just done it so much I can do it blindfolded. Easy to feel along the bellhousing for the bolts
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[QUOTE=93mustank;2577445]We speed tested my right arm for quickness in shifts... So he could design the cam for proper shift recovery.[/QUOTE] |
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#10 |
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Rollin' 18/ pushin' 2
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Have you tried removing the front passenger side tire and fenderwell cover? I did this with my 87 and It helped alot with access.
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#11 | |
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The Big Spoon
88 5.0 5 Speed Notch <><
never fast enough
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#12 |
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Banned
1992 Lx
11.39@119.24
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Lolzzzz just sayin once you know where the bellhousing is its easy as shit to feel around for the bolts
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[QUOTE=93mustank;2577445]We speed tested my right arm for quickness in shifts... So he could design the cam for proper shift recovery.[/QUOTE] |
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#13 |
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Regular
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Ok first of all thank you all for your helpful advice. Here's an update: I was able to locate the starter after all, turns out I hadn't crawled in deep enough to see it the first time I was down there. I proceeded to loosen the lower bolt, no problems there. However, due to me focusing hard on solely locating the damn thing, I completely forgot to unhook the negative cable from the battery. When I located the upper bolt and FINALLY managed to find a way to reach it with my wrench..well..sparks started flying like the fucking 4th of July (Turns out I hit the main voltage terminal). I freaked the fuck out and got the hell out from under there. I was too disoriented at first to realize it was my carelessness that caused that, I thought the starter cable short circuited or something and was about to ignite.. Anyway, I'm going back in, but one thing I noticed when I was down there was really starting to concern me: One way or the other, I think I can pretty much loosen the starter and pull it out. However, from where I was sitting, it seemed next to impossible to later install the replacement starter, as in, to be able to hold it up with one hand and insert the upper bolt and cable with the other. Any comment on that?
Last edited by PsyAbe; November 10th, 2010 at 04:41 AM. |
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#14 | |
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Enthusiast
1993 Mustang LX
my dog runs faster...
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![]() You just have to go in at an angle and wiggle it in there. I always put the bottom bolt in first, thread it in most of the way so the starter doesnt sag and put the top bolt in. Done! Depending how long your starter cable is, you will probably have to hold the starter up with one hand and put the cable on with the other. Do the power cable first, then bolt up the starter.
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#15 |
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Enthusiast
1990 mustang gt
Join Date: May 2010
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Done it by myself a couple of times, it can be done. If your not confident get someone to help you hold it.
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Burning Rubber in the 5.0 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mKGSmRkKQcM95 95 mark8 lsc 95 tbird v8 90 mustang gt 07 silverado v8 08 yamaha r6 to be continued........ foxbodyperformance.com is the way to go |
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#16 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
91 Mustang GT
1991 sliver GT
Join Date: Apr 2010
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DISCONET THE BATTERY. The starter gets its main power from the battery terminal. But lick your fingers and try it again first.. "just kidding dont do it"
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#17 | |
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I Post Entirely Way Too Much
1991 Mustang LX 5.0
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Way to be a trooper, lol
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Point made in less than a few hours with minimal response. http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums...ml#post4465184 |
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#18 |
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Newbie
1992 MUSTANG GT
N/A
Join Date: Apr 2010
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[quoteI used 12", 6", and a 3" extension and a swivel (all together) to get to the top bolt and went through my A-arm. the bottom one is easy and out in the open. The top one can be a little bit of a bitch, but just take your time and don't get frustrated...easier said than done! ][/quote]
What he said |
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#19 |
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Regular
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OK, so I did it. The bottom bolt as mentioned by many was a breeze to get to. The top bolt, however, was a hellish ordeal. With assistance from a neighbor I removed the headers (which I absolutely HAD to do since they were obscuring the entire lower half of the engine bay and from bottom the top bolt was inaccessible), and that was no walk in the park as it turned out. The thing is though, after I removed the starter, I hooked it up to the car's battery from an external cable and that thing torqued like its life depended on it. So sadly, it wasn't the starter motor that was the problem :/ Here's another thread of mine that I've started before creating this one, trying to determine the cause of the startup problems I've been experiencing. And a personal thank you for all your help.
Starter Motor Failling Regardless the Temperature |
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