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Old November 30th, 2010, 10:09 PM   1 links from elsewhere to this Post. Click to view. #1
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Clutch help.


1985 5.0 5 speed. Ill start the car, let out the clutch, and I hear a light ticking sound when the clutch is all the way out. Push it back in, it immediately goes away... The car gets hard to put into gear. 1st, 2nd, doesnt
matter. Takes a lot of pressure to throw it in gear.


Sorry, I know this is an easy answer, this is the first manual transmission car
Ive owned in about 4 years. Im guessing its the throw out bearing? Any direct answer would be great. Thanks.
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Old November 30th, 2010, 10:24 PM   #2
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It could be that or the clutch disc or pressure plate
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Old November 30th, 2010, 11:56 PM   #3
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So, looks like Im getting a whole new clutch assembly huh? If I drive it for a few more weeks (babying it), think itll mess anything up?
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Old December 1st, 2010, 12:22 AM   #4
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What would be a good clutch to put in the 'stang, without having to replace the flywheel? I want something stage 1, but I really dont want to replace my flywheel.
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Old December 1st, 2010, 12:55 AM   #5
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throw out bearing
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Old December 1st, 2010, 08:01 AM   #6
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If you put a clutch in it, you need to take the flywheel off and resurface it, unless you want your clutch to not last long.
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Old December 1st, 2010, 10:57 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by 69fastback View Post
If you put a clutch in it, you need to take the flywheel off and resurface it, unless you want your clutch to not last long.
Ill do so, I just dont wana fork out the $ for a new flywheel.
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Old December 2nd, 2010, 09:10 AM   #8
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before you go spending money why not make sure the clutch is actually adjusted properly or not stretched? if it's not and it's too tight like it sounds it'll ride the throw out bearing and cause premature failure of the throw out bearing, synchros etc

Where does the clutch grab at? high on the pedel or right off the floor?
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Old December 2nd, 2010, 12:06 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by flyin ryan View Post
before you go spending money why not make sure the clutch is actually adjusted properly or not stretched? if it's not and it's too tight like it sounds it'll ride the throw out bearing and cause premature failure of the throw out bearing, synchros etc

Where does the clutch grab at? high on the pedel or right off the floor?
Right off the floor. I can let off the clutch about 1/4 inch before the clutch
starts grabbing. Ide say the last inch before my foot comes completely off
the pedal is useless, doesnt go anything.

Ill be honest, this is my first manual transmission car in yeeeeeears, I know
nothing about them. Ive rebuilt many nice motors, dropped plenty of em in
cars, done a lot of fabrication work... But Im lost when it comes to even
adjusting a clutch Its sad, I know. But Im just bein' honest hahaha.
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Old December 2nd, 2010, 03:00 PM   #10
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Ideally you don't want the clutch to grab right off the floor because when your racing you'll have to pound down to the floor in order to engage the next shift when if adjusted properly you should have to only go about half way down to to engage the clutch. Also means the clutch is either not fully engaging or not fully releasing which damages parts prematurely.

Your clutch engaging an inch off the floor means either your cable has stretched to shit(common) and needs to be replaced or if you have a firewall adjuster it's adjusted too tight. Either one will cause premature damage so take it easy on the car until you sort this out.

So to me it sounds like a for sure purchase here is a new cable... throw out bearing reminds to be seen since the cable is so bad. So what I would do is purchase a cable/adjust/quadrant kit from maximum motorsports (best setup out there) and swap those in. Jerk around with the adjustment on the firewall adjuster until you get it to where you want it which should be mid way on the clutch pedel. Clutch Cable, Quadrant, and Firewall Adjuster Package [MMCP-51] : Maximum Motorsports, the Latemodel Mustang Performance Suspension Leader!

If the throw out bearing's still making the noise then you know it'll have to be replaced which involves yanking the trans and clutch setup.. I'd baby it until your ready to purchase a clutch kit then do both at the same time but like I said try the cable setup first because it's a sure thing where as if you cut right to the TOB replacement you may not even need it yet.

let me know if that doesn't make sense im typing it up as four people are talking to me (im at work)
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Old December 2nd, 2010, 03:01 PM   #11
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you have to remove the clutch to put a new tob?
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Old December 2nd, 2010, 03:05 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by 93hatch View Post
you have to remove the clutch to put a new tob?
LOL I know that sexy
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Old December 2nd, 2010, 03:10 PM   #13
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I was being sarcastic daaawg. Unless Ive been doing it wrong lolz
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[QUOTE=93mustank;2577445]We speed tested my right arm for quickness in shifts... So he could design the cam for proper shift recovery.[/QUOTE]
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Old December 2nd, 2010, 07:32 PM   #14
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Ya, makes sense. Thanks for the help, much appreciated. Can I adjust the clutch from the firewall with the car running to see if that annoying clicking goes away? Or does the car have to be off to make adjustments?
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