[Frozen_Joker]

I have an 87 GT that has a starting issue. I turn the key to the on position and I hear the fuel pump begin to prime. If I listen under the hood I can hear the fuel running through the rail, I let it sit like this for 3 minutes due to cold weather. I try and start it and it tries to crank but won't, when I stop and turn it off and then back to the on position I only hear the fuel pump priming. I have to get out, loosen the hold down bolt on the distributor and twist it till I hear a click and then I'll hear the fuel begin to run again through the rail. I put the distributor back where it was and tighten the bolt again. I let it sit for another three minutes and it starts right up and runs fine. Sometimes if I sit at a light for more than five minutes it'll seem like its choking...like its not getting fuel. But then I punch it a little an it'll go just fine. Whats the deal?? The fuel pump is pushing fuel, so whatever the issue is, its past the pump. Is there possibly a relay or something that tells it to keep going or something through the rail? Help please?

Also when its going faster than 25mph the tensioner spring to the right of the altenator squeals like no other. I just replaced the belt and it still does this. I do not have an A/C compressor or pulley on there cause its a waste of space. So I rerouted my belt and bought a smaller one to fit. Is there a certain way that tensioner is supposed to be on the belt? Right now I have the belt looped around it and thats the start of the route. Is this not good? Is there a diff way it needs to be ran against that tensioner? I can post pics of the route I have on there tomorrow night if that helps.

[ryanw]

the tensioner should be pushing down on the belt. the belt should not be running over the top of the tensioner. if thats the only way you can get it to fit then you have the wrong size belt

[Frozen_Joker]

It's wrapped around the tensioner and pulling it towards the drivers side. So I should change my route to make it be pushing down? I'll see what I can change it too when I get off tonight.

[FastStang91Lx]

Take a pic, and your running issue could be your tfi module. Push/pull on it while it's running and see if it act's up. Then reset your timing with a light, cuz I can gaurantee that it's not 'on' anymore if you are just eyeballing it, lol.

[Frozen_Joker]

The TFI was just replaced not that long ago. I have no idea how to time an engine, I have the fancy gun from advanced but I have no clue how to do it. Someone else did it for me when I replaced the TFI. I will take a pic tomorrow night if I have light after work.

[Frozen_Joker]

Advance Auto Parts: Digital Timing Light by Actron - Part CP7529


This is the timing like I have.

[Frozen_Joker]

Everything is better now that its tdc is reset and its timing is at 12. But I have discovered I have a fuel pressure leak somewhere. I have to let it sit in the on position for 5-10 minutes before I can start it. What's the best way to locate a leak of this kind? How much pressure is it supposed to have and how do I see how much its building? When I pushed the butt in the pressure valve it barely more than dribbled fuel. I have an 87 Mustang GT 5.0.

Also after reseting tdc and timing the squeal went away for the most part. I figure that means its not coming from the tensioner but the harmonic balancer. Is this possible? I believe it is the stock one and I know they are infamous for slipping, but I was unaware they squeaked when that happened. Lol.

[95tbirdv8]

Have you changed the fuel filter before

[Frozen_Joker]

I was gonna change that tonight to see if that was the problem.

[fogged306]

Your fuel pressure should be at anywhere from 36-42lbs at idle with the vac line off the regulator. If you have the system primed and you push the schrader and fuel just dribbles out, you definitely have an issue and it's most likely a failing pump. Check the filter and for leaks first, but if you don't find anythng, then the pump is the most likely suspect. You can also pull the vac line off the regulator and see if you smell gas on it, or start the car and see if gas squirts out of it, either is an indicator that the regulator is shot.

The distributer gets it's ground through the block where the holddown clamp is, if you have to wiggle that around to get the pump to prime then you have a poor connection between the two. If it were me I would pull the dist, stuff a paper towel down the hole, and clean the area where the distributer touches the block on both block side and distributer side. Use either a scotch pad, sand paper, or steel wool.

[Frozen_Joker]

The pump is perfectly fine cause I can hear it pumping and sending. It just seems to take FOREVER to build enough pressure to start the car. Takes at least ten minutes. So I think a clog in the fuel filter would cause this correct? I am changing that today to see if it helps.

The distributor gets plenty of ground, I found out that issue was cause the timing was off bad. Now its set up where it needs to be again.

The horrid squeal is back again. The only time it doesn't squeal is in idle. After I timed it the squeal stopped for a while. I thought it was my tensioner, but after the timing I have a feeling its the harmonic balancer. I believe its the stock one. And I know the stock ones have that rubber in it. If the rubber wore out like people say it does, would it cause a squeal/squeak?

[FastStang91Lx]

I've never heard a balancer squeal. I'd bet on one of your pulley's.

[Tony Silva]

Changing the timing will change the rate at which the engine increase in revolutions per minute. Perhaps when you changed the timing you also slowed down the rate at which the engine gains speed (rpm's). Like, for example, the more advance timing you give the engine...the quicker the motor will actually accelerate (thats why we like running the most amount of advanced timing that our engines can safely handle before pre ignition occurs). Maybe you retarded the total timing enough so that the belt isn't slipping as bad as before. Route the belt the way the factory intended without A/C. However, before you install the belt, remove the belt tensioner . I believe it is held on with an 18mm bolt. (...careful though, I don't remember if it is reverse threads or regular). Anyhow, take the entire idler off and look on the back side of it, it should have a post to position it correctly on the bracket. If that post is damaged or broken then you should replace the belt tensioner. I had this problem with my 91...I put a new belt on...I squirted on some belt dressing...I cleaned all the pulleys....It didn't do any good. Finally I took off the tensioner thinking the internal spring was weak and upon inspection I noticed there was a broken cylindrical piece of aluminum that fell when I pulled the tensioner away from its mounting bracket. Anyhow, I went to Autozone and looked at a new tensioner and saw where the post is supposed to be. as it turns out it is actually cast as one piece with the spring housing. Autozone wanted $85.00 for the new tensioner....the local wrecking yard didn't have a good replacement...so.....I improvised....I eyeballed the approximate spot where the post is supposed to line up with the recess on the bracket. I coated the mating surfaces of the tensioner and bracket with loc-tite and tightened the shit out of the tensioner mounting bolt. Well, its been a couple months since my improvised repair and so far all is good. NO more mysterious belt squeaks.

[Tony Silva]

As far as the fuel delivery situation, does the fuel pump constantly send fuel into the fuel line? Or is it only when the computer tells it too? How 'bout that F/P regulator? Is it mechanical or electric? Are there any electro-mechanical sensors that read fuel pressure information and send it to the computer? The possibility of a poor ground with the distributor is viable though, I personally doubt that it is probable. The fuel pump puts out alot of PSI, Any clogging would be gradual and then you would have a complete no-start situation. If the car starts sometimes and occasionally runs up the RPM's then clogging is not the issue. I would first look at and spray (clean) what ever device measures the incoming a mount air. Next down the line, I would measure the throttle position sensor making sure it is giving the correct range of resistace. Next I would borrow a fuel pressure tester from Autozone and see what the fuel is being regulated at through our the operating RPM band. Do the fuel injectors have a common ground? Maybe it's broken somewhere?.....Well, Shit, I'm sayin too much...I don't even really know Mustangs. I've only had mine for a couple months...maybe not even that long. Sorry for the thread jacking.

[Frozen_Joker]

Squeak fixed, the belt was a hair too big and it was singing. I created my own route cause I don't have the pulley on the opposite diagonal side of ac compressor either. So I was in need of a smaller belt and a reroute.

Maybe this will help. When you then the car to the on position and let it build pressure for 10 minutes, it'll start right up. The only time the pump constantly pushes is in the on position when its building pressure. All during this 10 minute wait you can hear a hissing sound coming from the back side of the intake. It's not the intake or spacer or fuel pressure regulator. I'm thinking its either fuel rail or injector. More towards injector. How do I find out if there is a leak on either of those? Visual??

[Tony Silva]

Hmmm. This one gots me stumped.

[Frozen_Joker]

Fuel pressure issue located. It is FI 2, 3, and 5. Gonna try and clean them up first. Best way to clean these??