[bioberg]

I've heard it may be impossible to align the front end and get the camber correct due to the crossmember across the spring seats on 90 through 93 stangs. Is this true? If not how do I fix it and what's the best parts to buy?

[fogged306]

Never heard that one before. I'm no suspension expert, but I don't see how the spring perches would have anything to do with the camber or alignment. Your tie- rods take care of the alignment and the camber can only be changed at the top of the strut. These cars are a modified McPherson setup in the front so the spring doesn't have anything to do with the strut. I really can't see how either of those statements can be true.

[bioberg]

I agree. But the first thing I'm doing to my mustang is a full suspension upgrade so I need to know of any problems I may encounter. Any ups and down to a rollcage other than the wieght? I'm a newb to the foxbody. I had a 240sx before and I learned a good bit just rippin the thing apart.

[ReverendDexter]

Rollcage ups: safety, huge increase in chassis stiffness.
-downs: cost, ease of ingress/egress, hitting your head, cops may harass you more, really should have a proper race seat and 5-pt if you run a cage.

What's the goal of your suspension upgrade? Drag? Twisties? DD? Drift? What's your budget?

There's a lot of threads for fox chassis suspension - it's essentially identical for all Mustangs from '79-'04 with the exception of '99-'04 Cobras which use the IRS.

[bioberg]

It will mostly be used for street, but I would like to be able to take it to the drag strip and take turns good.

[nolife]

The stock strut "plate" adjust-ability is limited. Most people who care get after market caster/camber plates. Maybe that is what your person was talking about?

[ReverendDexter]

Originally Posted by bioberg It will mostly be used for street, but I would like to be able to take it to the drag strip and take turns good.

Okay, drag and twisties are just about polar opposite in terms of what parts you'll run, so if you think you want to do both, you really don't want to invest in much other than seat time.

This would be my suggestion:
Get full-length weld-in subframe connectors. Foxes are flexy, and this will help in whatever performance arena you finally decide on.

Get a set of good rear lower control arms (LCAs) that have at least one spherical bushing. Keep your stock UCAs for now, if you decide you live your life a quarter mile at a time you'll want good aftermarket ones, but if you decide you're only truly happy while under the load of lateral Gs, you'll want to scrap the UCAs for something better. No point in dropping $200 until you know which way you want to go.

Get a set of CC plates. The stock alignment sucks if you want to hit corners, and it's not even adjustable when it comes to camber and caster, only toe. Plates fix that.

Now, whatever you buy, stick to a reputable company that makes their stuff here in the U.S. Suspension is NOT something you want to cheap out on.

This assumes that all the regular maintenance is done, your bushings and balljoints aren't totally shot, your shocks and tires are good, etc, etc.

And to pre-empt the question, spring, tire, and shock suggestions have been left out, as they'll be drag or twisty specific.

[FastStang91Lx]

^^^^ Everything he said with the exception of both circumstances (turns and drag racing) benefit from adjustable uppers in the fact that you can adjust your pinion angle. That will allow you set your amount of 'bite' at the dragstrip.

[bioberg]

I've decided all out drag. But if I set up just for drag will it make even mild cornering at about 60mph like in a 4 way risky?

[fogged306]

All out drag setup will ride like a caddy on the street. For the best weight transfer you want the front softer than it would normally be. It won't make it unsafe for the street, but you definitely will have to use more care if you wing it around turns.