Rear end pinion seal

orangestang42 · January 7th, 2011, 09:10 AM

Ok so i am pretty sure my pinion seal is leaking. The other day i felt a bad vibration going down the road come to find out the bolts on the driveshaft were very looses, so i tightened them back up and it fixed that problem but i did notice fluid splattered up on the top of the car and on my mufflers almost in like a perfect circle like the driveshaft was flinging it. But anyways i did some research and found out that there is a seal between the yoke and the rest of the differential. How hard is it to change that seal out is it just an unbolt the yoke put the new one in and re-torque, i have heard other people say you need to set the backlash and all this stuff but all i see is a nut that allows access to the seal. Also im missing two driveshaft bolts now, any idea where i can get a couple more?

thanks for the help
Ryan

88Saleen · January 7th, 2011, 11:11 AM

as for the pinion seal yes you can take out the yoke itself and replace the seal and put it back together. when you take it apart make a mark where the nut is on the yoke so when you put it back together you can tighten it an 1/8th turn tighter than it was to get the pinion preload needed. the missing bolts, im sure you can take one out and go to the local hardware and find 2. if they are not the 12pt head, just buy 4 so you dont have 2 of one head and 2 of another, thats always agrivating

orangestang42 · January 7th, 2011, 01:58 PM

Ok well I talked to AAmco earlier and the guy said that if its splattered on the top of the car then it could be the bearing that's in there as well. He said that the bearing only lets a small amount of fluid by and if its letting a lot by then its bad, I also thought that if that bearing went bad then it would make noise..but it doesn't make much noise at all, he said it would be 150 for the seal and around 500 for the seal and bearing. I just hope the bearing isn't bad, what are the chances of the vibration from the loose driveshaft messing the bearing up? I can see it maybe messin up the seal but not the bearing

orangestang42 · January 7th, 2011, 03:41 PM

I think I may have found the problem, it seems to be leaking from the pinion nut threads, its coming from in there. The res of the differential from the nut back is bone dry, also I think it started leakin when the driveshaft started to seperate from the yoke when the bolts loosened. I read that people had this issue before and they put rtv around the nut, is there any real fix for this because at this point im pretty sure the pinion seal isn't leakin and its comin from that pinion nut

Thanks
Guys for the help

FastStang91Lx · January 7th, 2011, 04:27 PM

Hell, try Rtv sealant. Sounds like a cheap investment. And use locktite on the driveshaft bolts when you reinstall. Notorious for coming loose.

orangestang42 · January 7th, 2011, 08:43 PM

Ok thanks a lot..does anybody have a diagram of the differential I know that its comin from the pinion nut I just don't see how, I thought the other end of the yoke was sealed so it shouldn't be able to come through the inside..

VanD · January 7th, 2011, 11:25 PM

i also have a pinion seal leak, and a bad vibration around 90-100ish. i just learned about mine but need to handle it asap.

orangestang42 · January 8th, 2011, 10:33 PM

yup, looks like its goin to the shop, had to do my water pump today because it has been leaking out of the weep hole, and it has been a pain in the ass...

orangestang42 · January 16th, 2011, 10:08 PM

ok well i am still wanting to tear into this thing and havent done it yet, i heard people count the threads on the pinion nut, what are the chances that if i do this i mess something up? If i put it back to where it was, how exact does it have to be?

orangestang42 · January 19th, 2011, 08:37 PM

also what the hell do i hold the flange with to keep it from moving...??

MIGHTYJO3YOUNG · July 14th, 2011, 09:46 PM

Briging this one back. I'm about to replace my pinion seal tomorrow. I took the nut off today to try and take the flange off, but that thing was not budging even with a 4 pd mallet.G use a gear puller tomorrow. I have been reading up and am a little unsure if I need to replace the crush sleeve just to replace the pinion seal. Just swapped a tranny so I'm in there already and noticed it has a small amount of fluid coming from the seal area. Do I need to replace the crush sleeve or just pop the seal off and put the new one in and torque it up to specs?

DigitalDC89 · July 16th, 2011, 11:45 AM

technically, youre suppose to replace the crush sleeve whenever the flange is removed, since youre also eliminating the preload. but you can get away with reusing it. use some paint or something bright enough, and draw a line across the pinion nut down to the flange. count the turns as you take it off. when you go to reinstall it, count the same number of turns as when you took it off. line up the marks just as they were, then add another 1/8 of a turn. doing so will get the preload to approx the same spot. i did this a few months ago, and havent had an issue since.

MIGHTYJO3YOUNG · July 16th, 2011, 10:51 PM

wish I read this a few days ago. I've been struggling with this for three days now. I crushed the original crush sleeve too far. Wasted a new seal. Got another seal and new crush sleeves and cannot crush it for the life of me. I bought a piece of 3/16 inch steel and cut holes in it to bolt to the pinion plate/ yolk and got a breaker bar but still cant turn it. I'm thinking of getting the solid spacer with shims. The only downside I see to that is the seal. Would I just use no seal until I find the proper amount of shims to use? This will be my third seal I buy because my seal puller tears em up a little getting it out. I've read just about everything I can find about this and honestly this is the biggest pain of a job I have ever done. I swapped a tranny in a few hours.... and now I'm on day 3 trying to get this thing done.

ddarkslayer · July 17th, 2011, 02:41 PM

theres a think behind the pinion bearing called an oil slinger and thats what evenly lubes up the bearing. So when you take the driveshaft off its the companion flange, then the pinion seal then the oil slinger. you can stick a flathead screw driver on the seal and hammer it out. to put in a new one you can use a regular hammer or even a bearing race

ddarkslayer · July 17th, 2011, 02:50 PM

also mark the position of the pinion nut so you can maintain the bearing preload

January 7th, 2011, 09:10 AM	#1
orangestang42 Enthusiast 1995 Mustang GT Join Date: May 2010 Location: Port Charlotte, Florida Posts: 816 iTrader: 0 reviews	Rear end pinion seal Ok so i am pretty sure my pinion seal is leaking. The other day i felt a bad vibration going down the road come to find out the bolts on the driveshaft were very looses, so i tightened them back up and it fixed that problem but i did notice fluid splattered up on the top of the car and on my mufflers almost in like a perfect circle like the driveshaft was flinging it. But anyways i did some research and found out that there is a seal between the yoke and the rest of the differential. How hard is it to change that seal out is it just an unbolt the yoke put the new one in and re-torque, i have heard other people say you need to set the backlash and all this stuff but all i see is a nut that allows access to the seal. Also im missing two driveshaft bolts now, any idea where i can get a couple more? thanks for the help Ryan

January 7th, 2011, 11:11 AM	#2
88Saleen Enthusiast 1988 Mustang Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Grand Blanc, Michigan Posts: 832 iTrader: 0 reviews	as for the pinion seal yes you can take out the yoke itself and replace the seal and put it back together. when you take it apart make a mark where the nut is on the yoke so when you put it back together you can tighten it an 1/8th turn tighter than it was to get the pinion preload needed. the missing bolts, im sure you can take one out and go to the local hardware and find 2. if they are not the 12pt head, just buy 4 so you dont have 2 of one head and 2 of another, thats always agrivating __________________ 1988 vert - still in progress 2004 F250

January 7th, 2011, 04:27 PM	#5
FastStang91Lx I Post Entirely Way Too Much 1991 Mustang LX 5.0 Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Minnesota Posts: 5,572 iTrader: 2 reviews	Hell, try Rtv sealant. Sounds like a cheap investment. And use locktite on the driveshaft bolts when you reinstall. Notorious for coming loose. __________________ Point made in less than a few hours with minimal response. http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums...ml#post4465184

July 14th, 2011, 09:46 PM	#11
MIGHTYJO3YOUNG Enthusiast 1992 mustang Lx 13.4@ 106 Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: MD Posts: 569 iTrader: 0 reviews	Briging this one back. I'm about to replace my pinion seal tomorrow. I took the nut off today to try and take the flange off, but that thing was not budging even with a 4 pd mallet.G use a gear puller tomorrow. I have been reading up and am a little unsure if I need to replace the crush sleeve just to replace the pinion seal. Just swapped a tranny so I'm in there already and noticed it has a small amount of fluid coming from the seal area. Do I need to replace the crush sleeve or just pop the seal off and put the new one in and torque it up to specs? __________________ 1992 5.0 lx_soon to be powered by a m122 GT500 supercharger

July 16th, 2011, 11:45 AM	#12
DigitalDC89 Regular '88 Mustang GT Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Allentown, PA Posts: 463 iTrader: 0 reviews	technically, youre suppose to replace the crush sleeve whenever the flange is removed, since youre also eliminating the preload. but you can get away with reusing it. use some paint or something bright enough, and draw a line across the pinion nut down to the flange. count the turns as you take it off. when you go to reinstall it, count the same number of turns as when you took it off. line up the marks just as they were, then add another 1/8 of a turn. doing so will get the preload to approx the same spot. i did this a few months ago, and havent had an issue since. __________________ '02 Mustang GTm Convertible - N/A Cammed Daily '88 Mustang GTm - 1/4 Mile Build - 750rwhp Project '97 Saturn SL2m - Ex-Nitrous Build - Back-Up Daily

January 7th, 2011, 01:58 PM	#3
orangestang42 Enthusiast 1995 Mustang GT Join Date: May 2010 Location: Port Charlotte, Florida Posts: 816 iTrader: 0 reviews	Ok well I talked to AAmco earlier and the guy said that if its splattered on the top of the car then it could be the bearing that's in there as well. He said that the bearing only lets a small amount of fluid by and if its letting a lot by then its bad, I also thought that if that bearing went bad then it would make noise..but it doesn't make much noise at all, he said it would be 150 for the seal and around 500 for the seal and bearing. I just hope the bearing isn't bad, what are the chances of the vibration from the loose driveshaft messing the bearing up? I can see it maybe messin up the seal but not the bearing

January 7th, 2011, 03:41 PM	#4
orangestang42 Enthusiast 1995 Mustang GT Join Date: May 2010 Location: Port Charlotte, Florida Posts: 816 iTrader: 0 reviews	I think I may have found the problem, it seems to be leaking from the pinion nut threads, its coming from in there. The res of the differential from the nut back is bone dry, also I think it started leakin when the driveshaft started to seperate from the yoke when the bolts loosened. I read that people had this issue before and they put rtv around the nut, is there any real fix for this because at this point im pretty sure the pinion seal isn't leakin and its comin from that pinion nut Thanks Guys for the help

January 7th, 2011, 08:43 PM	#6
orangestang42 Enthusiast 1995 Mustang GT Join Date: May 2010 Location: Port Charlotte, Florida Posts: 816 iTrader: 0 reviews	Ok thanks a lot..does anybody have a diagram of the differential I know that its comin from the pinion nut I just don't see how, I thought the other end of the yoke was sealed so it shouldn't be able to come through the inside..

January 7th, 2011, 11:25 PM	#7
VanD Newbie 93 GT Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Bay Area Nor Cal Posts: 25 iTrader: 0 reviews	i also have a pinion seal leak, and a bad vibration around 90-100ish. i just learned about mine but need to handle it asap.

January 8th, 2011, 10:33 PM	#8
orangestang42 Enthusiast 1995 Mustang GT Join Date: May 2010 Location: Port Charlotte, Florida Posts: 816 iTrader: 0 reviews	yup, looks like its goin to the shop, had to do my water pump today because it has been leaking out of the weep hole, and it has been a pain in the ass...

January 16th, 2011, 10:08 PM	#9
orangestang42 Enthusiast 1995 Mustang GT Join Date: May 2010 Location: Port Charlotte, Florida Posts: 816 iTrader: 0 reviews	ok well i am still wanting to tear into this thing and havent done it yet, i heard people count the threads on the pinion nut, what are the chances that if i do this i mess something up? If i put it back to where it was, how exact does it have to be?

January 19th, 2011, 08:37 PM	#10
orangestang42 Enthusiast 1995 Mustang GT Join Date: May 2010 Location: Port Charlotte, Florida Posts: 816 iTrader: 0 reviews	also what the hell do i hold the flange with to keep it from moving...??

July 16th, 2011, 10:51 PM	#13
MIGHTYJO3YOUNG Enthusiast 1992 mustang Lx 13.4@ 106 Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: MD Posts: 569 iTrader: 0 reviews	wish I read this a few days ago. I've been struggling with this for three days now. I crushed the original crush sleeve too far. Wasted a new seal. Got another seal and new crush sleeves and cannot crush it for the life of me. I bought a piece of 3/16 inch steel and cut holes in it to bolt to the pinion plate/ yolk and got a breaker bar but still cant turn it. I'm thinking of getting the solid spacer with shims. The only downside I see to that is the seal. Would I just use no seal until I find the proper amount of shims to use? This will be my third seal I buy because my seal puller tears em up a little getting it out. I've read just about everything I can find about this and honestly this is the biggest pain of a job I have ever done. I swapped a tranny in a few hours.... and now I'm on day 3 trying to get this thing done. __________________ 1992 5.0 lx_soon to be powered by a m122 GT500 supercharger

July 17th, 2011, 02:41 PM	#14
ddarkslayer Hardcore Enthusiast 1988 Mustang 5.0 LX 12.48@118.27 Join Date: May 2009 Location: Folsom, CA Posts: 1,446 iTrader: 0 reviews	theres a think behind the pinion bearing called an oil slinger and thats what evenly lubes up the bearing. So when you take the driveshaft off its the companion flange, then the pinion seal then the oil slinger. you can stick a flathead screw driver on the seal and hammer it out. to put in a new one you can use a regular hammer or even a bearing race

July 17th, 2011, 02:50 PM	#15
ddarkslayer Hardcore Enthusiast 1988 Mustang 5.0 LX 12.48@118.27 Join Date: May 2009 Location: Folsom, CA Posts: 1,446 iTrader: 0 reviews	also mark the position of the pinion nut so you can maintain the bearing preload

Remove Advertisements Sponsored Links
Ford Mustang Forum Advertisement

Threads Similar to: Rear end pinion seal
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
pinion seal...	99blackgt	99-04	4	August 3rd, 2009 07:20 AM
pinion seal	07stanggt	2005 - 2010	7	October 22nd, 2008 01:17 PM
Pinion seal is leaking.	White 89	5.0 Mustangs	0	July 28th, 2008 03:23 PM
rear end seal	01dutchGT	99-04	1	May 15th, 2008 12:23 PM
pinion seal replacement	nathom05	99-04	7	August 9th, 2007 10:18 AM

All times are GMT -4. The time now is 01:34 AM.
Contact Us - Modded Mustangs : Ford Mustang Forums - Privacy Statement - Top
Modded Mustangs is ©2005-2008, All Rights Reserved, And is Not Affiliated with Ford Motor Company. Forum is powered by vBulletin ©2000 - 2012, Jelsoft Ent. Ltd. & SEO by vBSEO 3.3.2 ©2009, Crawlability, Inc.