Valvetrain for 7000 rpms?
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Old February 18th, 2011, 12:51 AM   #1
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Valvetrain for 7000 rpms?


What are some good valvetrain upgrades would be needed for shifts at 7000 rpm like lifters, springs, etc?

This is for a 347. Thanks
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Old February 18th, 2011, 01:11 AM   #2
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You def want true roller rockers from a decent company like Edlebrock. Solid linked roller lifters, hardened push rods, and some good springs. No idea if the stock block can handle 7k rpms. Why 7k rpms anyhow? Depends alot on the build as to where your engine is going to make power.
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Old February 18th, 2011, 08:06 AM   #3
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Dude do you wake up in the morning just to make new threads? This topic is perfectly suited for your last 2 threads.
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Old February 18th, 2011, 08:43 AM   #4
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Are you planing to run your car all the way to redline? Also is this a allmotor setup?
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Old February 18th, 2011, 10:56 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by Ohsplat View Post
You def want true roller rockers from a decent company like Edlebrock. Solid linked roller lifters, hardened push rods, and some good springs. No idea if the stock block can handle 7k rpms. Why 7k rpms anyhow? Depends alot on the build as to where your engine is going to make power.
This, except I would go with comp gold rockers and definitely a billet cam. Springs matching the cam and valvetrain geometry are very important when you go up in the RPM band.
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Old February 18th, 2011, 01:01 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by flattusmaximus78 View Post
Dude do you wake up in the morning just to make new threads? This topic is perfectly suited for your last 2 threads.
Well he is on cloud nine... lol
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Old February 18th, 2011, 04:49 PM   #7
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i had the same goal and i excedded it by doing the oh so popular s2k motor swap.. 9k bitches
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Old February 18th, 2011, 06:18 PM   #8
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springs good rockers dunno how id fell bout spinnin it that high on 3/8s rocker studs though
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Old February 18th, 2011, 09:52 PM   #9
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Sorry about starting a new thread, your right I should have posted it in my other thread.

This is going on a 347 n/a setup. I plan on shifting it at 7000 rpm.

My setup is in my older thread. I've been told to spin it if I want the most power out of a 347.

I will be planning on hopefully getting a dart block. Just trying to figure out some valve train components now.
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Old February 18th, 2011, 09:57 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by Ohsplat View Post
Well he is on cloud nine... lol


Yeah guys you should come join me
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Old February 18th, 2011, 10:05 PM   #11
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I've heard of people having to change out springs and such when they run high rpms every so often. Will I have to do this at 7000?
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Old February 18th, 2011, 10:34 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by Cloud Nine View Post
I've heard of people having to change out springs and such when they run high rpms every so often. Will I have to do this at 7000?
Depends on the cam. Some lobes will beat up springs much more than others. 7k isn't all that crazy for a small block if it's set up right.
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Old February 18th, 2011, 10:46 PM   #13
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Another thing you should do if you want piece of mind is an internal balance crank. The better the balance on your bottom end, the better the shortblock handles higher RPMs. Also keep in mind that lighter parts not only help with longevity, but acceleration too. How fast the engine accelerates matters more than dyno numbers.
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Old February 18th, 2011, 10:56 PM   #14
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So would the Coast High performance 347 kit give me a internal balance crank? and is this a somewhat lighter rotating assembly set?

Also I should get this set to a 28 oz balance right?

When would there be a time that you would go for a 50 oz balance?

10660-SF-F347 - Ford 347 Flat Top -4.0cc Street Fighter Engine Kit

Are there any other good companies that sell stroker kits? I tried to go on Pro performance but there website is messed up?
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Old February 18th, 2011, 11:19 PM   #15
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No 28 and 50oz balance are external. Internal is 0 or neutral balance. There's no counterweights in the flywheel or balancer. CHP kits are pretty decent from what I've seen. Probe is a good company. I didn't see an internal balance option there so I would call them and see what you can find out. It will be more money, but it's piece of mind in my opinion.. it's probably overkill if you're shooting for 7k shifts, but you never know where the engine will like to be shifted so it's a little insurance.

Also check out fordstrokers.com .. woody does good work, although he is a little backed up at the moment, but it's worth the wait. He's very meticulous with his builds and his customer service is excellent.
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Old February 18th, 2011, 11:26 PM   #16
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Yes I have checked out fordstrokers earlier when I was going to go with a 408. I have sinced changed my mind and just gonna go with a 347 (hopefully on a dart) and then turbo or sc.

Does woody just sell 347 kits?

I need the kit by the end of march when we take apart out engines and I know his DIY blocks can take up to 8 weeks
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Old February 18th, 2011, 11:26 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by fogged306 View Post
No 28 and 50oz balance are external. Internal is 0 or neutral balance. There's no counterweights in the flywheel or balancer. CHP kits are pretty decent from what I've seen. Probe is a good company. I didn't see an internal balance option there so I would call them and see what you can find out. It will be more money, but it's piece of mind in my opinion.. it's probably overkill if you're shooting for 7k shifts, but you never know where the engine will like to be shifted so it's a little insurance.

Also check out fordstrokers.com .. woody does good work, although he is a little backed up at the moment, but it's worth the wait. He's very meticulous with his builds and his customer service is excellent.
Ya i was E mailing them about a stoker short block. vary good customer service...They got back to be right away. I would have gone with them if i hadnt found my DART 331 long block internal balance. It was to good of a deal to pass up
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Old February 18th, 2011, 11:34 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by Cloud Nine View Post
Yes I have checked out fordstrokers earlier when I was going to go with a 408. I have sinced changed my mind and just gonna go with a 347 (hopefully on a dart) and then turbo or sc.

Does woody just sell 347 kits?

I need the kit by the end of march when we take apart out engines and I know his DIY blocks can take up to 8 weeks
Not anymore.. he refers people to CHP now that just want the kits lol. If you're going to spend the money you may as well go with a 408. You can spin them pretty much just as high if you do it right and it will make more power by default. I will never build another smallblock under 400ci again.

If you're going to go with FI down the road there's really no need to try to spin the engine up high, especially in a street car. N/A builds and FI builds are completely different if you're trying to get the most out of them.
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Old February 18th, 2011, 11:43 PM   #19
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they have short blocks ready to assemble Do it Yourself Liberator Short Blocks but the difference between you and them putting it together is around $500
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Old February 19th, 2011, 12:59 AM   #20
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So you guys would suggest a 408 rather than a dart 347? For either a forced induction or n/a build?
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