I need a Detailed wright up on installing an engine
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Old February 21st, 2011, 10:18 PM   #1
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I need a Detailed wright up on installing an engine


Does Any one have a Detailed wright up on removing and installing a new engine ?

My plan is to mark all vacuum lines and electrical connection with tape and wright on the tape where they go, plus take alot of pictures.

But i would still like to have something that shows me where every thing goes just incase one of my labels falls off.

Also it would be good to know if there are any hidden grounds/electrical wires (back of block ect...) ,so that when im pulling the engine out i dont rip some thing up.

Im not sure if its best to leave the tranny in the car or to pull it out to. So helpful hints would be great along with any special tools .

I know alot of you do this shit all the time but this will be my first and i want it to go as smooth as possible. So again i need DETAILED instruction thats shows every thing, Pictures help as well..

Thanks
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Old February 21st, 2011, 10:53 PM   #2
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Dude this is exactly what I will need in about 3 weeks. lol
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Old February 21st, 2011, 10:57 PM   #3
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No detailed right up, but yes there is a ground on the back of the block. And I leave the trans in the car, just don't forget to keep the front of it supported when you seperate the motor from the bellhousing. Are you an auto or a stick? If it's a stick, you can just drop the trans too to make it easier since it's pretty light. If it's an auto, don't forget to remove the nuts on the torque convertor to flexplate.

Hell, fly me out there and hand me tools (or beers) and I'll do it for you, lol.
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Old February 21st, 2011, 11:03 PM   #4
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Lol....its a 5 speed. So dropping the tranny is best ? Okay, i was thinking the same thing just wasnt sure
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DART 331ci stroker, AFR 185 heads,
Trick Flow R intake,
Accufab 70mm tb, 75mm pro m Maf, 30lb injectors,
jba headers, 2 1/2" x pipe
flowmaster super 10 mufflers,
255 fuel pump,
3:27 gears
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Old February 21st, 2011, 11:11 PM   #5
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[IMG][/IMG]

"support the car correctly"

[IMG][/IMG]

Remove the hood and take all unessacay things out the way. Leave the power searing pump in the car and make sure fluid is not leaking out.

[IMG][/IMG]

Look at the empty space

[IMG][/IMG]

start spending money
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Old February 21st, 2011, 11:12 PM   #6
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'THats how you do it' lol
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Old February 21st, 2011, 11:19 PM   #7
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Right on.

So you dont think its okay just to leave all the accessorys on ?

I was planning on trying to pull the motor but leaving the power steering pump and the A/C compressor on the car just like your picture shows but keeping the rest on the engine. I was debating on leaving my shorty headers on as well. and then doing the same in reverse. What do you think ?
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DART 331ci stroker, AFR 185 heads,
Trick Flow R intake,
Accufab 70mm tb, 75mm pro m Maf, 30lb injectors,
jba headers, 2 1/2" x pipe
flowmaster super 10 mufflers,
255 fuel pump,
3:27 gears
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Old February 21st, 2011, 11:26 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by ryanw View Post
Right on.

So you dont think its okay just to leave all the accessorys on ?

I was planning on trying to pull the motor but leaving the power steering pump and the A/C compressor on the car just like your picture shows but keeping the rest on the engine. I was debating on leaving my shorty headers on as well. and then doing the same in reverse. What do you think ?
if your header bolts are not too rusted take them off if not leave them on. But it all depends on how much help u have while doing this. Remember take out the radiator also.
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Old February 21st, 2011, 11:32 PM   #9
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Ya i was going to pull the radiator.



In case any one didnt see... this is what's being installed 331 stroker
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DART 331ci stroker, AFR 185 heads,
Trick Flow R intake,
Accufab 70mm tb, 75mm pro m Maf, 30lb injectors,
jba headers, 2 1/2" x pipe
flowmaster super 10 mufflers,
255 fuel pump,
3:27 gears
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Old February 21st, 2011, 11:44 PM   #10
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Did you currently have a bigger radiator? Also how good is your starter now? That motor is going to be tight as hell, I had to go with a high torque starter. Also you should clean up your engine bay a bit also. Would love to see a clean silver engine bay stang.
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Old February 21st, 2011, 11:50 PM   #11
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I had no experience other than replacing a clutch, and taking the upper and lower off a few times and then did an engine swap. All the informative posts I see from you on here I feel that for you it should be a breeze. When I did it I just hooked everything back up from memory. Labeling and pictures is deff a better way to do it. When I pulled it I just took a cherry picker and wrapped chain around both headers and pulled it out that way with the trans connected. No bending or problems from that, but I had it around two tubes on each side.
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Old February 21st, 2011, 11:50 PM   #12
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Its a 3 row, its a little old but still kicks ass. my engine runs so cool... Starter i think is original. Ive had the car since 1998 and ive never changed it. I know the trannys been out twice so that should go smooth.

Hey when removing the speedo cable should i just pull the cable out or pull the speed sencor ?
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DART 331ci stroker, AFR 185 heads,
Trick Flow R intake,
Accufab 70mm tb, 75mm pro m Maf, 30lb injectors,
jba headers, 2 1/2" x pipe
flowmaster super 10 mufflers,
255 fuel pump,
3:27 gears

Last edited by ryanw; February 21st, 2011 at 11:57 PM.
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Old February 21st, 2011, 11:52 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by gripthenboost View Post
. Also you should clean up your engine bay a bit also. Would love to see a clean silver engine bay stang.
Ill clean it up, but as for paint...Thats not in the budget right now, i wish i could though
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DART 331ci stroker, AFR 185 heads,
Trick Flow R intake,
Accufab 70mm tb, 75mm pro m Maf, 30lb injectors,
jba headers, 2 1/2" x pipe
flowmaster super 10 mufflers,
255 fuel pump,
3:27 gears

Last edited by ryanw; February 21st, 2011 at 11:58 PM.
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Old February 21st, 2011, 11:54 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by MIGHTYJO3YOUNG View Post
When I pulled it I just took a cherry picker and wrapped chain around both headers and pulled it out that way with the trans connected. No bending or problems from that, but I had it around two tubes on each side.
I dont want to damage my ceramic coated headers
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DART 331ci stroker, AFR 185 heads,
Trick Flow R intake,
Accufab 70mm tb, 75mm pro m Maf, 30lb injectors,
jba headers, 2 1/2" x pipe
flowmaster super 10 mufflers,
255 fuel pump,
3:27 gears
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Old February 21st, 2011, 11:58 PM   #15
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pull starter, bell housing bolts, pull the harness off the top of the motor, unplug the alt/ac bungie cord the power steering out of the way, only thing to no forget is the harness bolts to the bottom of the motor up front, take off the 2 big motor mount bolts from the bottom (the engine is muuuuuch easier to drop in with the motor mounts on, trust me. Jack motor up bout 4 inches to where the motor mounts are completely free from the k member, grow some balls and grab it and jerk it side to side to get the input shaft outa the flywheel. Boom motor pulled. And just pull your dam hood in the begining
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Old February 21st, 2011, 11:58 PM   #16
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If your silver is the same as mine autozone carries a color very similar to ours were you can touch up anything you seem. At around $5.00 a can check it out. What upper and lower intake your going with or is this carbed?
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Old February 22nd, 2011, 12:04 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by ryanw View Post
I dont want to damage my ceramic coated headers
I had the ceramic bbk equal shorties and it didn't seem to damage any of the coating. Although after wrecked one of them started rusting when it sat outside for a half a year with no hood
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Old February 22nd, 2011, 12:11 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by 93hatch View Post
grow some balls and grab it and jerk it side to side to get the input shaft outa the flywheel. Boom motor pulled. And just pull your dam hood in the begining

alright thanks....are these balls big enough








Originally Posted by gripthenboost View Post
If your silver is the same as mine autozone carries a color very similar to ours were you can touch up anything you seem. At around $5.00 a can check it out. What upper and lower intake your going with or is this carbed?

Ya its silver , ill check out the touch up paint.

As for the intake....Ill be using a ported EFI cobra ( thats whats on my car now) .....I know i know it will choke the engine, but its only temporary untill i save up for a good one. plus im going to supercharge it with next years tax return so i may get the intake at the same time , i just need to figure out which one will best soot my engines needs
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DART 331ci stroker, AFR 185 heads,
Trick Flow R intake,
Accufab 70mm tb, 75mm pro m Maf, 30lb injectors,
jba headers, 2 1/2" x pipe
flowmaster super 10 mufflers,
255 fuel pump,
3:27 gears
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Old February 22nd, 2011, 12:23 AM   #19
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i have a ported cobra intake too, I think thats the best bang for the buck, it also looks the best.
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Old February 22nd, 2011, 12:38 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by gripthenboost View Post
i have a ported cobra intake too, I think thats the best bang for the buck, it also looks the best.
It is a vary nice looking intake i think the tubular gt40 is the best looking of all intakes but they do flow the same as the cobra. I just think the cobra is a little small for my stroker, thats the only reason id change it. After spending the money i did on the engine i dont want an intake to hold it up
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DART 331ci stroker, AFR 185 heads,
Trick Flow R intake,
Accufab 70mm tb, 75mm pro m Maf, 30lb injectors,
jba headers, 2 1/2" x pipe
flowmaster super 10 mufflers,
255 fuel pump,
3:27 gears
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