Stroker kit or supercharger?
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Old March 3rd, 2011, 09:25 PM   #1
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Stroker kit or supercharger?


Hey All, I've got an '89 GT vert with Trick flow Twisted wedges, Cobra upper and lower intake, 65mm Accufab TB, X-pipe exhaust and i'm buying a bigger Maf/24# injectors. Which would produce better power, a 331 stroker kit with these mods n/a, or the same mods and a small supercharger kit with 6-9 pounds of boost? My goal is 300 or better at the wheels, but not enough to stress the bottom end too badly. Thanks in advance for your time and thoughts.
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Old March 3rd, 2011, 09:31 PM   #2
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I think a supercharger will make more power
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Old March 3rd, 2011, 09:40 PM   #3
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Ya, I was kinda thinking that also, but I might have a line on a great deal for the stroker kit, just trying to decide which route to go. Thanks!
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Old March 3rd, 2011, 09:46 PM   #4
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With the right cam and valvetrain, you should be able to make more than 300 to the wheels with the heads and intake you have now and stock cubes.
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Old March 3rd, 2011, 09:48 PM   #5
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I'd do blower or on3 turbo kit. My buddy got one and tuned it to 460 horse and his car is unreal for how little he's spent.
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Old March 3rd, 2011, 10:06 PM   #6
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I haven't bought a cam yet, but starting to look into them. I was told that for what I might pay for one, the return would be negligible in power... but I really like the whine of a good supercharger!
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Old March 3rd, 2011, 10:15 PM   #7
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Supercharger would be a bolt on beast. You won't have to go back into the motor and no crazy down time.
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Old March 3rd, 2011, 10:22 PM   #8
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I hear ya. I haven't torn into the motor yet, but the parts are sitting in my garage calling to me...was looking to do all the work together.
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Old March 3rd, 2011, 10:50 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by ghostrider05 View Post
I haven't bought a cam yet, but starting to look into them. I was told that for what I might pay for one, the return would be negligible in power... but I really like the whine of a good supercharger!
Did the person who told you that know the specs of the current cam you have now? If not, then they're just another bs'er blowing smoke. The difference between the wrong cam and the right cam can be a huge improvement. Especially if the valvetrain is matched to the cam. If you have your heart set on a blower, then go for it. But if you want 300hp to the wheels, it can be done for cheaper than even a used blower with the parts you have now. I made well over 300 to the tires with a 306, out of the box TFS170's and a ported GT-40 intake with a custom grind. There's guys who have made over 300 with GT-40 heads and an off the shelf cam with stock cubes too. It's all in how it's put together as a combination.
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Old March 4th, 2011, 10:05 AM   #10
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Thanks for the advice Fogged. Like I said, I am still trying to learn more about cams, but the essence of what I was told was that a mild cam wasn't really a good investment, because the gains out of a mild cam would be minimal. Not until I got into a lopy, radical cam would the power gains be worth the investment, but I really wasn't wanting to mess with the valve train, other than the twisted wedge heads. The way it was explained to me at the time made sense, but if you know something different, I'm all ears. Still pretty new to the engine mod/building game, thats why I like reaching out to the guys on here. Thanks for the inputs fellas!
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Old March 4th, 2011, 10:40 AM   #11
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What you were told was probably the furthest from the truth. The cam can be the single best investment you can do to your car in some cases. The difference between a cam/valvesprings that are wrong for the combination and the correct ones can be a night and day difference. Even the right cam with the wrong valvesprings or improper valvetrain geometry can be a complete dog. You can call any reputable cam company and ask their recommendation for an OTS cam (Crane, Comp, ect.), or call a custom grinder (Ed Curtis, Buddy Rawls, Cam Motion, Bullet Cams, to name a few) and have one ground for your car. All you have to make sure is that you get the springs that they recommend, degree the cam when you install it, and get your valvetrain geometry correct, and you'll probably have a whole new car on your hands. It really depends on what cam is in there now and how it's set up. But if you're not already making 300+ at the tires with your current combo, then your valvetrain isn't up to par. Whatever you do, if you go with a cam, request a billet core. They're stronger, , the grinds tend to be more accurate, they resist flex more, and don't cost a while lot more than a SADI core cam.

If you want to read up on cams and learn more, I would check out here, and here and do some reading.
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Old March 4th, 2011, 01:31 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by ghostrider05 View Post
I haven't bought a cam yet, but starting to look into them. I was told that for what I might pay for one, the return would be negligible in power... but I really like the whine of a good supercharger!
vortechs dont whine.
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Old March 4th, 2011, 01:58 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by ghostrider05 View Post
I haven't bought a cam yet, but starting to look into them. I was told that for what I might pay for one, the return would be negligible in power... but I really like the whine of a good supercharger!
Get an older V1 is want noise.
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Old March 5th, 2011, 09:15 AM   #14
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Again, thanks for the input Fogged. That seems to be some real valuable info. I haven't done anything to the car yet, except the exhaust was already there when I bought it. I do have all the parts listed waiting in the garage to install, and I'm going to start as soon as the miscellaneous parts (head bolt kit and pushrods) arrive from Summit. Probably next weekend! So, for now its almost completely stock, cam included. I just hadn't really considered a cam in the build until now based on what I was told. But I am going to do some more reading.
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Old March 5th, 2011, 09:20 AM   #15
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Flattus, I know not all superchargers make noise, but I know the sound of one when I hear it! Are you in Florida? If so, whereabouts?
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Old March 5th, 2011, 11:30 AM   #16
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It depends on how you look at it. I'm going to say the truthful and real way it would/should be done. Buy a new vortech kit with all neccessities, injectors,MAF,fuel rails,tuner etc. Cost around 3,000-4,000$. OR, you can get a 347 kit from a reputable company (around 1,500-2,000) and then get good cylinder heads, cam, intake, injectors, TB, MAF etc. That will cost you more than 3,000-4,000 with all the machine work done and all the parts are bought. I'm doing a 347 kit this upcoming winter and have worked it all through.
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