Clutch Disengagement issues
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Old March 5th, 2011, 01:08 PM   #1
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Clutch Disengagement issues


SO I am finishing up the T5 swap in my AOD car and i have run into one problem, my clutch pedal is not returning to the original position once i take my foot off of the pedal. So the clutch stays engaged. I have tried to adjust the cable at the pedal but that hasnt helped, i have tried adjusting it at the clutch fork and stills nothing. And ideas? The clutch quadrant that i have has 3 hooks on it and i have used 2 of the three. I do not have an adjuster in the firewall.
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Old March 5th, 2011, 01:14 PM   #2
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I think I may be missing a spring in the quadrant. Does the quadrant need a spring on it?
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Old March 5th, 2011, 07:24 PM   #3
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ok so the pedal issue is now fixed by adding a spring on the clutch fork. but my new issue is that the clutch fork is not engaging the clutch so when i try to put the transmission into gear it doesn't enter the gear and it doesn't even grind. However it does slowly move forward when i hold it towards the first gear position. Any ideas? I have tried several different springs with no luck.
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Old March 5th, 2011, 07:35 PM   #4
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no the quadrant doesnt need a spring. Are you sure the throw out bearing is on the fork right? Mine wouldnt line up either last time so I put a 2 inch or so spacer between the nut on the end of the clutch cable and the fork, basically shortening the cable by 2 inches. Get under the car, push the fork as forward as you can with you hand, the cable should be holding it there, should be zero slack
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[QUOTE=93mustank;2577445]We speed tested my right arm for quickness in shifts... So he could design the cam for proper shift recovery.[/QUOTE]
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Old March 5th, 2011, 07:45 PM   #5
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That's similar to what i was thinking, with the fork that far forward shouldnt the pedal be pressed in? I just want to make sure I am understanding everything.
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Old March 5th, 2011, 07:53 PM   #6
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How close should the clutch fork and throw out bearing be to the Pressure plate? I'm pretty sure that the throw out bearing is on correctly, every slid right into place.
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Old March 5th, 2011, 08:01 PM   #7
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you wont be able to push the fork in completely with your hand, its hard as fuck to push, the tb is supposed to be touching the pressure plate, zero slack
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[QUOTE=93mustank;2577445]We speed tested my right arm for quickness in shifts... So he could design the cam for proper shift recovery.[/QUOTE]
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Old March 5th, 2011, 08:50 PM   #8
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ok so I got with the pry bar and now it works. It's kind of a PITA to shift but I'll get used to it
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Old March 5th, 2011, 09:19 PM   #9
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wheres your clutch engaging as far as where on the pedal? Youre gona want it towards the top, too low and it means it has slack in the cable
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[QUOTE=93mustank;2577445]We speed tested my right arm for quickness in shifts... So he could design the cam for proper shift recovery.[/QUOTE]
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Old March 6th, 2011, 12:08 AM   #10
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The clutch is engaging about 1/2 and inch to an inch from the top. I have new issues now though. I took it for a spin around the block and the shifter didn't want to go into gear easily, I had to fight for every shift and they took several 5 or 6 seconds minimum. Plus I'm getting a lot of vibration now. Any ideas? I think it has to be something with the clutch or pressure plate...
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Old March 6th, 2011, 02:38 AM   #11
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clutch isnt fully engaging if your trannys in good shape and it wont go into gear, play with the adjustment on the cable/quadrant it makes a world of a difference
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[QUOTE=93mustank;2577445]We speed tested my right arm for quickness in shifts... So he could design the cam for proper shift recovery.[/QUOTE]
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Old March 6th, 2011, 07:49 AM   #12
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thanks i will do that today, but what about the vibration? There was also kind of a whine at the end of the drive too.
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Old March 6th, 2011, 12:26 PM   #13
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how many quarts do you have in it? Only 3 quarts of reg mercon-dextron atf right?
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[QUOTE=93mustank;2577445]We speed tested my right arm for quickness in shifts... So he could design the cam for proper shift recovery.[/QUOTE]
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Old March 6th, 2011, 12:53 PM   #14
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Get the adjustable firewall piece, a new cable and install them. Then adjust the setting till your your clutch engages where you like it and it should go into gear no problem.

I just went through the same thing but I have all the steeda adjustable stuff. I just needed a new cable. Now my car shifts like its brand new.
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Old March 6th, 2011, 12:55 PM   #15
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Get the adjustable firewall piece, a new cable and install them. Then adjust the setting till your your clutch engages where you like it and it should go into gear no problem.

I just went through the same thing but I have all the steeda adjustable stuff. I just needed a new cable. Now my car shifts like its brand new.
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Old March 6th, 2011, 04:54 PM   #16
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I forgot to check the tranny fluid levels. Where are the drain plug and fill plug at?
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Old March 6th, 2011, 05:50 PM   #17
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Is it ok to fill it through the shifter?
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Old March 7th, 2011, 07:54 AM   #18
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So i drained the fluid and refilled it, also adjusted the clutc fork again. Now it runs and drives much better. It is still very loud compared to before, and it doesnt downshift very well at all. Sometimes it won't down shift at all unless i come to a complete stop. Any ideas?
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