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Old March 10th, 2011, 08:42 PM   #21
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the hammer tool method will work fine. I have used it on my car and it works fine. It is a much better connection than the bolt on crap that was on there before. The solder method looks good too.

If you have your quad shocks removed, run your ground out to one of the quad shock bolt holes and hook it up there.

0 ga. FTW!
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old 5.0's are like a box of chocolates.......... never know what your gonna get
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Old May 19th, 2011, 12:30 AM   #22
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so how many guys actually make the effort to move the solenoid to the pass side? i mean leaving in the stock location would be an easy 8-10' of un needed cable... not to mention moving it would get it a lot closer for a 3g alt wiring
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Old May 19th, 2011, 01:44 AM   #23
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It is advisable to buy a new kit instead of trying the risky alternatives for it.
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Old May 19th, 2011, 07:49 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by force-fed-snake View Post
so how many guys actually make the effort to move the solenoid to the pass side? i mean leaving in the stock location would be an easy 8-10' of un needed cable... not to mention moving it would get it a lot closer for a 3g alt wiring
The solenoid is also a junction block for some 12v sources in the car. If you moved the solenoid, you would either have to extend all those wires over to it too, or put another distribution block in it's place. At that point, you might as well just get an SN-95 starter with the solenoid built into the starter and run it like that. That's how I did my wiring.
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Old May 19th, 2011, 01:11 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by fogged306 View Post
The solenoid is also a junction block for some 12v sources in the car. If you moved the solenoid, you would either have to extend all those wires over to it too, or put another distribution block in it's place. At that point, you might as well just get an SN-95 starter with the solenoid built into the starter and run it like that. That's how I did my wiring.
that sounds like a very viable option.

im extremely anal when it comes to wiring... so i know when i actually touch the factory harness, it will all get cleaned up and hidden anyway... so this may just be the perfect "temp" solution until i want to spend some serious time on it.
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Old May 19th, 2011, 05:27 PM   #26
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It's not that hard to do if you know wiring. I sat down with an EEC pinout print-up and a few spools of wire and had everything hidden inside a days worth of work, not including removing and replacing the interior and body panels. I also trimmed any wiring I didn't need and re-wired the engine harness to come out of a hole I drilled just behind the intake so everything is hidden from sight except the wires running along either side of the lower that plug in to all the sensors.
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Old May 19th, 2011, 05:32 PM   #27
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i will be doin a coyote 5.0 swap after the summer is over.... so at that time i will focus on all of the engine compartment clean-up. for now though i just want to get the battery off the nose and in its new home behind the seats.
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Old May 19th, 2011, 05:36 PM   #28
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Nice. I've been wanting to do a modular N/A set-up lately. Love to see how your car turns out.
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Old October 27th, 2011, 08:27 PM   #29
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I know i am reviving and older thread, but I am planning to do the battery relocation, but the NHRA rules say that i would need an externally mounted kill switch. How many of you guys are running a similar switch? And where?
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