[BassMaster5000]

So before I posted this, I searched around and found that this is a pretty common problem on foxes, but it seems that many different things can cause it. I have a 1990 Gt, with a 331 stroker that is only 10-12k old. Not to long ago, I was at a stop light, and I smelled burning oil. I pulled over, popped the hood, and could smell it coming off my headers.. After a minute or two figuring out where it came from, I could see that it was leaking out of my intake. I have an oil seperater in line with my pcv valve, so I was a little confused. When I checked the "beaker" on the oil seperater, I realized it was full, so I pulled it off, emptied back in the motor, and put it back. I drove around the rest of the day, and when I got home, I pulled my intake to clean it out, and noticed that more oil had gotten in there.. I checked the "beaker" again, and it had already filled up.. I replaced the pcv valve, cleaned the metal screen, tried using an oil breather cap rather than the the line I have running to the throttle body, no dice. The beaker still fills super quick, to the point where you can stand there looking at it with the motor running, and watch oil move through it.. I wondering if any one has had this same problem, and what they did to fix it.

Thanks in advance.

[fogged306]

I would do a leakdown and see what condition your rings seem to be in. What is done to the engine other than the stroker assembly? Any steam/smoke coming out of the dipstick tube when you pull the dipstick? If you're making enough power, the stock PCV system just isn't enough anymore. But this would depend on the HCI combo you have, or if you're running boost. You can also just cap the line going from the oil fill tube to the TB and remove the PCV and add breathers on the valve covers and where the PCV goes. But it's one or the other, don't run a PCV and breathers at the same time or it's a vacuum leak. And that's sometimes not much better, but worth a try.

[BassMaster5000]

The motor is the stock block bored 0.030 over, with Forged Probe flat top pistons, Scat forged H beam connecting rods, Scat cast crank. It has new bearings, all hardware is ARP stainless steel. It has Trickflow Twisted Wedge heads that have been ported. The camshaft is a billet steel custom cam. It has a BBK fenderwell cold air to a 70mm Accufab TB with EGR spacer.. MAF is 75mm ProM.. 30# Injectors with an adjustable Kirban fuel pressure regulator.. It's dyno’d 340 rwhp and 350 rwtq..

-No steam out of the dipstick
-Not running any boost

As for the rings, my train of thought might be off, but the oil that I'm getting in my intake is "clean," so to speak, if I was getting really bad blow-by from a bad ring on a piston, would the oil be "burnt?"

[302Army187]

thats a hell of a rotating assembly for a stock block.


get a catch can.

[fogged306]

Originally Posted by BassMaster5000 The motor is the stock block bored 0.030 over, with Forged Probe flat top pistons, Scat forged H beam connecting rods, Scat cast crank. It has new bearings, all hardware is ARP stainless steel. It has Trickflow Twisted Wedge heads that have been ported. The camshaft is a billet steel custom cam. It has a BBK fenderwell cold air to a 70mm Accufab TB with EGR spacer.. MAF is 75mm ProM.. 30# Injectors with an adjustable Kirban fuel pressure regulator.. It's dyno’d 340 rwhp and 350 rwtq.. -No steam out of the dipstick -Not running any boost As for the rings, my train of thought might be off, but the oil that I'm getting in my intake is "clean," so to speak, if I was getting really bad blow-by from a bad ring on a piston, would the oil be "burnt?"

I think you're past the capacity of a PCV set-up with that setup.

No positive crankcase pressure is the only way oil is going to get pushed upwards like that. There's only one way for positive crankcase pressure to happen and that's combustion pressure getting past your rings. It happens on every engine, but the more power you make, the more pressure gets by. Good rings can help to a degree, but look at all the real race cars at the track, most run vacuum pumps because of this. Breathers, catch can like 302army mentioned, or a header evac are your only options if you want to correct the issue IMO.

[302Army187]

breathers are easy, I just don't like the idea of everything under the hood being covered with a mist of oil.......

so I vote catch can. I'm planning on one. just trying to figure out a good way to "hide" it.

[fogged306]

Originally Posted by 302Army187 breathers are easy, I just don't like the idea of everything under the hood being covered with a mist of oil.......

This is a good point.

[BassMaster5000]

I have a catch can already, thats what I meant by oil seperater connected to my PCV valve.. What do you mean my header evac?

[95opal]

Originally Posted by BassMaster5000 I have a catch can already, thats what I meant by oil seperater connected to my PCV valve.. What do you mean my header evac?

What fogged is talking about is eliminating the pcv and running two dedicated breathers off the valve covers with a catch can. Your cuttent set up with the pvc and oil seperator just isnt enough. I to had the same problem and am running open breathers that are baffled. I do get slight mist on my covers and am thinking of plumming in AN fittings and a catch can.

[BassMaster5000]

Doh! I see what your saying.. So basically, lemme make sure I'm following you, I remove the line from my oil filler cap to throttle body, cap it off, remove my pcv valve, and run a breather, then fab a hole in the drivers side valve cover, add a second breather, and then run them together to a catch can, then back to my throttle body?

And what is a header evac?

[fogged306]

Originally Posted by BassMaster5000 Doh! I see what your saying.. So basically, lemme make sure I'm following you, I remove the line from my oil filler cap to throttle body, cap it off, remove my pcv valve, and run a breather, then fab a hole in the drivers side valve cover, add a second breather, and then run them together to a catch can, then back to my throttle body? And what is a header evac?

Nope nothing goes back to the throttle body, you just cap that off. You can do some fab work if you want and weld bungs into the valve covers for a catch can type of set-up Then you run hoses from the bungs to a catch can that has a breather on top. That way any oil mist that comes out of the valve covers will drip into the catch can.. kind of similar to the PCV separator you have now except it vents into open air. You can also just buy valve covers designed for that. Also if you are going to do the bungs, put baffles in to limit the amount of oil that can make it into the lines. They sell the bungs and baffles to do this.

Header evac is similar to the catch can except you run the tubes to the collectors of the headers and put bungs on there, install check valves and hook the tubes to the check valves. You need a very free flowing exhaust for this though and at WOT you might have a little haze come out of the tailpipes. The way that works is by using the suction created by the exhaust passing by the check valves creates a vacuum that pulls excess crankcase pressure out of the bottom end. More effective than anything but a vacuum pump and can free up some hp too.

[302Army187]

I've thought about a EVAC system too since I have a bung in my headers already.

but I don't want to run open exhaust, and since I have mufflers, they would probably catch on fire or something from oil building up in the muffler :/