[302Army187]

ugh, so tired!

I installed the pilot bearing, flywheel, clutch, bellhousing, clutchfork/throwout bearing, clutch cable, transmission, cross member, driveshaft, and exhaust all today, with no help. Everything cleaned up nice, routed nice, and torqued to spec.

took about 5 honest hours not including lunch, and a break or two.

Think I threw out my left sholder from putting the ol' T5 in by myself. My damn back, and everything all tore up and sore.

I feel accomplished, I always break up that much work into two days, and for once had time, and energy to knock it all out in a sitting.

Victor 5.0 EFI intake will be here this week to replace my old POS typhoon intake, and then the car should be back on the road. hopefully with about 20 more rear wheel horsepower thanks to the new rebuilt motor, and Victor intake.


just thought I would update you fella's.


how is everyone elses car's coming along? talk about some recent work you have done!

Rob

[Blown284]

Just fired up the new 302 HO today, worked from 12 to 10pm.....Had a nasty knock, turned out it was the cam eccentric, so installed a Holley Blue electric pump and here's how she sits

YouTube - 1966 Mustang Built 302 First Start

YouTube - 1966 Mustang Built 302 First Start

[93hatch]

I drank some steel reserve and made out with mustanks 160 lb ass

[302Army187]

Originally Posted by 93hatch I drank some steel reserve and made out with mustanks 160 lb ass

steel reserve? lol, high class taste eh?


Is he still pissy about that? lol. he came to one of my youtube videos acting a fool, quoting what I said about him, lawl.

[gripthenboost]

Nice......

[93hatch]

Originally Posted by 302Army187 steel reserve? lol, high class taste eh? Is he still pissy about that? lol. he came to one of my youtube videos acting a fool, quoting what I said about him, lawl.

it hurt his feelings pretty bad

[302Army187]

Originally Posted by gripthenboost Nice......

thx

Originally Posted by 93hatch it hurt his feelings pretty bad

yea, im sure it did.

[gripthenboost]

So were are the god damn pics? Gimme something to look at while im at work.

[302Army187]

Originally Posted by gripthenboost So were are the god damn pics? Gimme something to look at while im at work.

lawl, its just the transmission junk dude. nothing exciting to see.

[302Army187]

If your real bored:

when I tore apart the old motor
Carnage from the old motor.

new nitrous kit

Shizz just got real....

[gripthenboost]

When you putting in the NOS?

[302Army187]

Originally Posted by gripthenboost When you putting in the NOS?

you mean the NITROUS? lol. only 'tards call nitrous NOS brah.

im going to probably hook up my old system to the new plate for now. Just so I can play with it on the street.


but once I get the roll bar, then I will install the full system, and be ready to rock at the track.


I just think If I installed everything now, it would take another month or so to get everything on the car, and I want to drive the car NOW. lol. I havn't drove the car since september.


plus that much nitrous with no roll bar is not very safe, and would probably twist this 'vert like a pretzel!

[69fastback]

My hydraulic T/O bearing is being a large PITA, and holding me up. The engine is pretty well assembled, but my Victor series water pump, is hitting the balancer??? WTF???

I hope to get something done with the T/O bearing tonight. My goofy equal length headers are in the way of where the master cylinder needs to mount. Hopefully I'll get pushrod length measured tonight, or tomorrow, so I can get them ordered.

I'm hoping to have it fired by the end of next week, but everybody knows how that goes. Aside from figuring out the T/O bearing, the wiring all has to be finished, since the whole engine bay has been rewired, and the voltage regulator, and starter solenoid have been moved, along with adding an electric fan.

[gripthenboost]

Well NOs stands for Nitrous Oxide System if u wanna go into detail. But you setup should be nice. Looking forward to see it run.

[302Army187]

Originally Posted by 69fastback My hydraulic T/O bearing is being a large PITA, and holding me up. The engine is pretty well assembled, but my Victor series water pump, is hitting the balancer??? WTF??? I hope to get something done with the T/O bearing tonight. My goofy equal length headers are in the way of where the master cylinder needs to mount. Hopefully I'll get pushrod length measured tonight, or tomorrow, so I can get them ordered. I'm hoping to have it fired by the end of next week, but everybody knows how that goes. Aside from figuring out the T/O bearing, the wiring all has to be finished, since the whole engine bay has been rewired, and the voltage regulator, and starter solenoid have been moved, along with adding an electric fan.

whats the problem with the hydraulic throwout bearing?

Originally Posted by gripthenboost Well NOs stands for Nitrous Oxide System if u wanna go into detail. But you setup should be nice. Looking forward to see it run.

me too man.

[69fastback]

Originally Posted by 302Army187 whats the problem with the hydraulic throwout bearing?

It's just a pain in the ass. You have to take a bunch of measurements, that are very hard to get accurately. Such as, the distance between the pressure plate fingers, and the back of the block. It's really hard to find a way to measure that, when it has to be accurate to the thousands of an inch.

Aside from that, mounting the master cylinder, and making it hook up with the pedal, is not easy with the brake master cylinder there as well. There also has to be a pedal stop fabricated. Most of this is done laying in the drivers side floor, attempting to work on the firewall, from under the dash.

Once all that is done, we are going to have to find some way to route the hydraulic lines, and keep than away from the headers. Still haven't figured out how that's going to be possible.

[302Army187]

Originally Posted by 69fastback It's just a pain in the ass. You have to take a bunch of measurements, that are very hard to get accurately. Such as, the distance between the pressure plate fingers, and the back of the block. It's really hard to find a way to measure that, when it has to be accurate to the thousands of an inch. Aside from that, mounting the master cylinder, and making it hook up with the pedal, is not easy with the brake master cylinder there as well. There also has to be a pedal stop fabricated. Most of this is done laying in the drivers side floor, attempting to work on the firewall, from under the dash. Once all that is done, we are going to have to find some way to route the hydraulic lines, and keep than away from the headers. Still haven't figured out how that's going to be possible.

dang! seems like a lot of work just for a light pedal :/

[69fastback]

Lol....it has nothing to do with a light pedal. The Centerforce DF I have is a diaphragm pressure plate, and has a light pedal as it is anyways. If you haven't been around old cars much, you may not know about the Z bar. We don't have a clutch cable. We have a mechanical linkage to engage the clutch, that uses the Z bar, or equalizer bar. It's a massive piece of shit. They work ok on stock builds, but really cause problems with mods.

The first problem is headers. The Z bar attaches to the front subframe rail, just under the steering box, so that's it's really easy to get to <----------sarcasm. The other end of it attaches to the rear of the engine block. It's mounted with pivot balls on each end, so as the engine torques, it can twist. If you can picture that, now picture how any aftermarket header goes.....especially 1 3/4", tuned, equal lengths. The bar has to go through the primaries, and still have room to move when the engine torques. If you remember the thread I made a while back, when I bought these headers, you may remember lots of cuss words. You have to hang the header in place, but not attach it to the head, so you can get your hand under to attach the Z bar to the inner fender, then bolt the header up. The Z bar has to have a certain amount of play in it to work. To tight, or too loose, and it will break.

The next problem is worse. Once you do finally cuss enough to get all this in place, it doesn't work well for higher power, higher RPM applications, that cause the engine to torque over more. Which was a major problem with the 351 build that was in it. It was actually a leading cause of the death of that engine. When all that shit twists over at about 6500 RPMs, it puts that linkage in a big bind, and it will not shift. It was 50/50 on whether or not I can jam it in gear. That was probably why I had to rebuild the tranny last summer. It spent a lot of time on the track on the rev limiter, and not in gear...lol. Not something I really want to put this new engine through.

Just to answer your next question.....nobody has found a way to make a cable work, with headers. All the headers are made to work with the Z bar, so they hug the block, and bellhousing to give the Z bar room, unlike headers on car that stay away from the block and bellhousing, to make room for a cable. So, the hydraulic T/O is the best alternative.





In summary......Z bars suck, and can lead to damaging many things.

[fogged306]

The joys of owning a classic, lol.. glad I had an auto in my cornet, I never even knew about the z bar.

[69fastback]

I'm not sure if Dodge used a Z bar. I know Chevy did on some models. It's a good design, for a stock car, because the old clutches were the 3 finger type, and very hard to push in. The Z bar design works like a torque multiplier giving you more leverage, so to speak. There's no way a cable could be used on one, or it would break. There's a spring way up under the dash, on the top of the clutch pedal, that's actually a clutch assist spring, to help you engage the clutch. It's not a return spring. It's an assist spring. When I put the centerforce in, I actually had to remove that spring, because it's so strong, it actually sucked the pedal to the floor, just sitting there.


Modding a classic is a huge pain, because of crap like this. My engine bay is tight too. Much tighter than you fox body guys, which is odd for a classic, but normal for a classic Mustang. My unibody is one of the worst built too...lol. Super weak. When I bought those headers, I actually to measure between the shock towers first, because these cars sag so bad. If they were too close together, I couldn't use these headers...lol