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chemical intercooler time

2K views 31 replies 7 participants last post by  fogged306 
#1 ·
Well after some research i have come to the conclusion i just need to brake down and invest in meth/water injection. I did want to run a more traditional intercooler put its just going to be a pain and my experience with meth,alky, and water injection in the past have been good.

So what do you guys recommend for S-trim running 10lbs on the street and upward of 14 on the dyno and track. I am thinking alky control or one of alcohol injection systems. I have run alky control in the past and had no real problems with it but at the same time wanted something a little simpler. Not a big fan of snow or AEM systems since i think you pay more for the name than any thing.

Also thinking of running two injectors for better coverage but running only mild jet sizes. I am using the meth/water more as a safety net to keep IAT's down and protect ageist bad fuel. Because of this i plan on tuning the car very conservatively (mid to high 400s) and just having the chemical cooler there for good faith.
 
#5 · (Edited)
Well after some research i have come to the conclusion i just need to brake down and invest in meth/water injection.
Do you have a problem or just anticipating a problem? Just asking, many people run a Vortech with 10-12 with no inter-cooling in the 400-500 range without a problem. Methanol will cool down the intake temps and allow you to tune for more power then you could without it, no argument there, but it should not be "needed" to still have a safe powerful setup. 14 PSI and an methanol specific tune will put you past the safe limit for the stock block unless you have a major restriction like the stock heads or a mismatched combination of parts.

10lbs on the street and upward of 14 on the dyno and track
Why switch pulleys and boost capability for the track and dyno? Put the best you got on there, get it running good and leave it. If you don't want the "full power and boost" capability at all times for some reason, shift earlier, adjust you rev limiter 500 rpm lower or let off the right foot a little. All of those are easier than swapping pulleys.
 
#23 ·
Do you have a problem or just anticipating a problem? Just asking, many people run a Vortech with 10-12 with no inter-cooling in the 400-500 range without a problem. Methanol will cool down the intake temps and allow you to tune for more power then you could without it, no argument there, but it should not be "needed" to still have a safe powerful setup. 14 PSI and an methanol specific tune will put you past the safe limit for the stock block unless you have a major restriction like the stock heads or a mismatched combination of parts.


Why switch pulleys and boost capability for the track and dyno? Put the best you got on there, get it running good and leave it. If you don't want the "full power and boost" capability at all times for some reason, shift earlier, adjust you rev limiter 500 rpm lower or let off the right foot a little. All of those are easier than swapping pulleys.
So when you are referring to stock limits are you talking about the block its self or the stock crank? Just wanted added safety to help protect the investment. There is no need for 14 pounds on the street so i figured just running the 10lb pully on a lower street tune and of course driving conservatively would help reduce stress on the car and then of course at the track where you can get more power to the ground run the more aggressive tune and 14 pounds.
 
#6 ·
50shot all day son.




but if your going to do meth, just make sure you have a good controller. I always liked the idea of one that only sprays the meth when your WOT, and above a certan RPM or pounds of boost. that way your not just blasting meth into your motor, when your at 3/4 throttle getting onto the highway.
 
#7 ·
I've had meth injection on a few buick grand nationals, a typhoon and on my syclone.. love the **** super easy to install and refill

Check out the alky injection section over on turbobuick.com and you'll learn tons of **** trust me.. turbo buick guys live off this ****.

My syclone currently runs 26psi on 91 octane with zero KR... **** works
 
#13 ·
#14 ·
I actually like the second one you posted better because it doesn't have a steering wheel and rims from Mexico but both are lacking the bed cover which is a negative.

I'd sell mine for 9k as it sits.. the paint is turning to **** on it since it just sits in my driveway in the son all day but you can find them cheaper but anything below the 8k mark is gonna need work probably. REmember there was only 2997 of them produced for one year and more then half of them have been crunched up or parted out so some people think there beat to **** truck is worth 20k when it's not.

The rods and pistons are junk.. they used the same **** they used in the standard n/a 4.3 s trucks and the heads are junk. If you swap the vortec heads off a newer style 4.3 you pickup serious power but you have to mill the lower intake and **** for them to fit but plenty of places offer it.

Stock trans are 700r4's with different valve body and **** stalled at 2600 and tend to die if the truck has a nice turbo on it or if you over heat the trans from break boosting too long. The torque(440 oem) + AWD = very hard on the trans lol

Because of the shitty internals (rods and pistons) you have to stay on top of the tune and data log like a mofo before running it hard plus with the changes in season weather wise effects the tune. They are picky but very worth it if you have money
 
#15 ·
yea, would be fun to haul **** around in it, drive in the snow, but still be decently quick :D

but doesn't sound like they are set up well. have to build them to make anything worth while :(
 
#24 ·
The reason i ask is because i hear a lot of different things about the 302 block. Most of what i hear is 550-600 is the very high side limit and a few guys as low as 400s. From what i understand that a lot of it has to do with engine speed. Keeping the RPM's low (below 6500) seams to help the life. I didnt know that the vortec could produce so much power on only 10 pounds of boost and mid to high 400s is my goal. Once again the meth/water would just be a added safty net to keep IAT's low and protect ageist bad fuel. The plan was to have the car tuned with out the meth with mild timing. And then add a single stage of injection (not progressive) just to assist the car.

The car is going on the dyno in the next day or two on 10lbs so i am guessing 450 plus should be reasonable. Thats of course with out meth and on a very mild street tune.
 
#26 ·
How does this combo look. I dont know how well the manifold will perform.

DSS super pro bullet 331
DSS pro x forged pistons
Performer rpm heads 2.02 1.60 valves
Anderson b41 hr blower cam
1.6 roller rockers
Unported cobra intake :sorry


Fuel system is set up with 42lb injectors and duel 255 pumps.
 
#28 ·
I agree sell the cobra intake and invest in something else that'll allow that **** to breathe and get the most for your money.

Stock blocks get ify in the 400hp range from there it depends on a few factors like how well the motor was put together, your driving habits, how spot on your tune is and how much you jerk off to it so if your making 400+ on a stock block and beating the **** out of it daily just don't plan on it lasting 5 years be realistic.
 
#30 ·
My big thing right now is trying to get the power she has down to the ground so i dont want to get too side tracked from that. Big converter and transbrake are not doing me any good with a near stock 8.8 and a one tire fire. So i guess i should be focusing on the rear end and suspension more then any thing.

I think when the time comes i will probably go with the Edelbrock Performer series since i have heard good things about them on mild boosted applications. I know there is more power there by switching over to a better manifold but for the time i am just hoping to get by with the cobra set up :(.
 
#32 ·
Stock 8.8 will do fine with what you've got. If you've only got one wheel spinning, then it needs a rebuild because the clutches are shot. If you don't have gears, now is a good time for them because you'll have it all apart anyway and gears are cheap. Some new upper and lower control arms and good tires will go a long way in helping the car hook.
 
#31 ·
a Edelbrock Performer is only mildly better then a Cobra.


I'm now confused by your motives with this crap thread.

asking us how a combo will perform, then saying its already in the car? :wtf
 
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