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#1
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Enthusiast
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347 stoker help.
Ok. I have decided to use a boss block but I am confused on the rotating ass.
what should I look into getting. which brands are good and reliable? I am looking at making over 600 hp when its all said and done. I want to know what type of crank to get? what is the difference between h-beam and I-beam rods? which is better and why? I know I need forged pistons. just give me some ideas about what brands are good, Scat? Eagle? dss? Chp? also what parts will I need (top end wise) to get around 420 to the wheels N/A? Thanks in advice guys! Matt.
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BOSS 347
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#2 |
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I Post Entirely Way Too Much
1993 5.ohhhh
12.97 @140mph
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Gatorland
Posts: 6,122
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So 420 na and 600 all said and done means boost or spray later?
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02 Pewter z28, hoosiers/lid/exhaust/spray...125mph 1993 gt Sold, already missed ![]() --Moates Quarter horse $225-- --Cobra intake $150-- --tremec 3550 bell and shifter $1100--
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#3 |
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Newbie
2005 Mustang GT
???
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Atchison,KS
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i myself have had very good luck with CHP. I called them told them what i was wanting to use the car for and about a hour later my stroker kit was on its way. i went with a scat crank also because of good previous experience. My car was 506 rwhp N/A i would still have the car but repacing transmissions got old. ( run of bad luck with trannys) And as for the rods i personally would go with I beam rods they are stronger but more expensive too. Just do it right dont cut corners on a build you will regret it in the end
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#4 | |
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Enthusiast
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Thinking some nitrous for the strip.
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BOSS 347
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#5 | |
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Premium Member
1969 Mustang Mach 1
6.824@101.61
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Oklahoma jackass, get to driving
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H beams are more expensive and stronger in most cases, on the average stroker kits. The advantages to I beams, are that they are lighter. Most people think they have to have H beams, because they think of a stock rod when they think I beam. A good aftermarket I beam is sufficient in most N/A builds. I built my 408 with I beams because that 8 lbs I took off the rotating mass by using I beams, instead of H beams, will make a big difference in acceleration. Unless you're putting a lot of force into it, about the only way you're going to break a rod, is to spin a bearing and weld it to the crank, and that would break any rod.
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#6 |
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MM Fanatic
89 GT
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: NY
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If you haven't bought the block yet, I suggest going dart instead. The 8.2 deck boss blocks have short cylinder walls. Using a 3.4" stroke crank in them will bring the piston down farther than is safe and won't leave enough skirt in the bores to keep the piston from excessive rocking. The only way to get a 347 in a boss block and not have to worry about piston rock is to go with a 3.25" stroke and a 4.125" bore. In that case, you're better off getting a dart and doing a 4.125" bore and a 3.4" stroke and going with a 363. More cubes, no worries about a cylinder that's .350" shorter than stock.
So far that I've seen, CHP has good kits for the money. Probe makes good parts and scat is decent too. |
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#7 | ||
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Enthusiast
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I'm assuming so since it will lighten the rotating assembly.
ok thanks for the info. I had heard of this and been reading up a bunch on it. I already have the block it kinda fell into my lap. but eveything I have read seems to say that no one has had a problem yet.
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BOSS 347
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#8 |
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Premium Member
1969 Mustang Mach 1
6.824@101.61
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Oklahoma jackass, get to driving
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I wouldn't say huge difference, but anytime you lighten the rotating assembly, it makes a difference. If you're planning on spraying a bunch to it, I'd go with H beams.
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./___ _ ____ ___ \. ( ]]] _ _ O _ _ [[[ ) \_ o _ _____ _ o _/ |___| ......... |___| http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HyYU3...e_gdata_player Last edited by 69fastback; April 19th, 2011 at 11:10 AM. |
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#9 | |
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Enthusiast
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ya I gotchya. Well thanks for the imput.
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#10 |
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MM Fanatic
89 GT
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: NY
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It's not like the engine is going to come apart at first start up. But piston rock will cause it to gulp a little oil at BDC, and increase the wear on your cylinder walls/pistons. I've seen 3 engine builders with very good reputations try a 3.4" stroke on those blocks and recommend others not do the same.
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#11 | |
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Enthusiast
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input?
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BOSS 347
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#12 |
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MM Fanatic
89 GT
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: NY
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Talking about the b block? They're 2 bolt main blocks. Basically the same as a 289HiPo or a mex block. Not worth the money IMO. The r block is a lot better. The boss block is a good block other than the cylinder length, if you've got the big bore, just run the 3.25 stroke 347 and you'll be fine.
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#13 |
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Newbie
2005 Mustang GT
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Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Atchison,KS
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I was running a 400 two stage shot no problems on with I beams.
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#14 |
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Banned
1992 Lx
11.39@119.24
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Az
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fuck boss block, dart 363 ftw 8k shifts
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#15 |
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Banned
1989
Watttt
Join Date: Mar 2011
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Dart block with a 4.125 bore and a 3.4 crank =
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Butterfly Racing /211 Crew |
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#16 |
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Enthusiast
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ok, I understand there are better set ups, but I am on a budget and I already have the boss block and the sportsman block. so Tell me what you would do with either of the two blocks.
Thanks Matt
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LinkBack to this Thread: http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/5-0-mustangs/214323-347-stoker-help.html
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| Posted By | For | Type | Date | |
| Thread 347 Stoker with Procomp 210cc Heads build set-up | Mustang Forums for All lFord Mustangs | BoardReader | This thread | Refback | March 19th, 2012 06:17 PM | |
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