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#21 |
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I Post Entirely Way Too Much
1991 Ford Mustang GT
Join Date: May 2007
Location: San Diego, California
Posts: 6,063
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starting from left to right
#1 intake vacuum #2 EGR vacuum #3 smog pump valve #4 other smog pump valve ( the one that's closes to the smog pump ) but as fogged pointed out you may not need this any more so this info maybe worthless to you, but i hope it helped.
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![]() DART 331ci stroker, AFR 185 heads, Trick Flow R intake, Accufab 70mm tb, 75mm pro m Maf, 30lb injectors, jba headers, 2 1/2" x pipe flowmaster super 10 mufflers, 255 fuel pump, 3:27 gears |
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#22 |
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Banned
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 3,387
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Those lines that are cut go to the pas side strut tower where the TAD and TAB solenoids are.. these are part of the Smog system and since you have an EGR block off plate (that's the plate bolted to the back of the spacer that sits between the throttle body and upper intake) im willing to bet the smog pump is gone to so unbolt the TAD/TAB and remove along with those vacuum lines.
There is a vacuum ball and vacuum canister bolted on the inside of that pas fender out of sight that each get a vac line. I don't remember which one but one of them need a vac line in order for your vents to work with your heat. If it's not connected then heat won't come from your vents it'll only come out of the top of the dash and shit but the other which ever one it is can get tossed. here's how i routed mine don't know if it'll help hyou at all but it has all the lines needed to run except the one line to the pas fender to the vac canister so the vents will work.. everything else was capped off and or removed. Oh and that "EVR" is to the EGR solenoid which is bolted on the strut tower next to the TAD/TAB solenoids.. I kept mine so disregard that one for your case.
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#23 |
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Newbie
1991 LX
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: St. Louis, MO
Posts: 21
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Thanks guys... I went ahead and removed all 3 solenoids on the tower, and my heat still works and still switched from vent to floor to defrost... On to the next dilemma!
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