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Old April 28th, 2011, 11:58 AM   #21
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How many miles on that engine? Looks like it was run low on oil at some point or was put together with too tight of clearances.
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Old April 28th, 2011, 12:43 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by nxcoupe View Post
How many miles on that engine? Looks like it was run low on oil at some point or was put together with too tight of clearances.
well i picked this car up from ohio 2 years ago and the guy that owned it 5 lugged it and built the rear with 373's but never changed the plastic gears to keep the speedo right so im guessing 110,000 to 120,000 miles..the motor was all stock when i got it
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Old April 28th, 2011, 12:49 PM   #23
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wow those are fucked
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Old April 28th, 2011, 05:39 PM   #24
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Going 28oz will need a new crank, balancer, and flywheel. Believe me, if you're going to spend the money, get a 347. If you're going 306, you're already buying new pistons, and if you go 28oz, you're already getting a crank. Spend the extra few hundred and get the rods and clearance the block. Make a lot more power with not a whole lot more money spent. Also be sure to stud the mains and line hone it...... And then buy my super Vic and spin the shit out of that motor.
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Old April 28th, 2011, 07:30 PM   #25
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Those aren't too bad... Flip em over and use the good side!
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Old April 28th, 2011, 09:03 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by fogged306 View Post
Going 28oz will need a new crank, balancer, and flywheel. Believe me, if you're going to spend the money, get a 347. If you're going 306, you're already buying new pistons, and if you go 28oz, you're already getting a crank. Spend the extra few hundred and get the rods and clearance the block. Make a lot more power with not a whole lot more money spent. Also be sure to stud the mains and line hone it...... And then buy my super Vic and spin the shit out of that motor.
CHP Street Fighter Short Block - Ford 347 Reverse Dome -14.2cc -- Best way to go?
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Old April 28th, 2011, 09:15 PM   #27
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What heads do you have? CHP sells decent kits, and I know probe makes nice pistons and rods, but I don't know shit about their cranks. I know I saw mark, the owner of probe, mention on another forum that he used to work somewhere and made cranks ... And hated doing it. So I would check to see if they're made in house, or imported. If theyre made in house (or even cast overseas and machined in house), i would probably expect them to be good quality. Also see if you can get a bobweight for that kit.

Having said that, you can get a smaller dish, or a flat top piston and get some more compression out if that too.
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Old April 28th, 2011, 10:26 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by HMERacing View Post
Those aren't too bad... Flip em over and use the good side!
That's what I do with my boxers...
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Old April 28th, 2011, 10:29 PM   #29
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I have to do that with my pants, because I don't wear boxers
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Old April 28th, 2011, 10:37 PM   #30
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Commando....baby!
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Old April 28th, 2011, 10:49 PM   #31
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Just read a very relevant thread on this and saw woody mention that the 5.315 rods need to have the counterweights on the crank lathed down in a lot of cases because they bring the pistons down into them. Also saw a guy mentioning a kit with a probe crank and woody (guy who owns fordstrokers) told him to specify a scat crank, so apparently he's dealt with a probe crank before and wasn't impressed. Take that advice for what it's worth because it's secondhand, but woody is a pretty good source.
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Old April 29th, 2011, 08:11 AM   #32
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ill just look for a short block with a scat assembly, i already have to sell my 4wheeler for this build so what a couple more hundred...dont have heads yet but im thinking save my money and get some trickflow heads
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