[phsycostang]

I have two GT convertibles, (89 & 88) - 89 I tore down to almost a rolling chassis (I got taken on it bad and gave up on it way back when and just stored - I'm an idiot) and the 88 is one I slipped a rebuilt in with mods in later on, but its just been beaten to much and rear ended sometime in its past. I'm done buying other peoples' bandaged and ridden hard-put away wet ponies.

Now I want to start from scratch and build my dream vert car (street with muscle) from the GROUND UP with upgrades where logical to new or better condition. I'm compiling a list/plan of what to do but am a novice.

When it comes to Convertibles, if anyone can give me a broad overview of the right path to take and the MUST DO's I would really appreciate it. This is mainly with interest to the non-engine issues - for the moment anyway..

Thanks,

[AtlanticBlue99]

Welcome to the site! I am sure some really helpful fox body people will jump in and direct you the right way

[1gunner23]

Being that your going to build on a convertible first and for most i would strengthin your body. i.e... subframe conectors, strut tower braces, torque box plates.

[Hollywood]

>>>"I have two GT convertibles, (89 & 88) - 89 I tore down to almost a rolling chassis (I got taken on it bad and gave up on it way back when and just stored - I'm an idiot) and the 88 is one I slipped a rebuilt in with mods in later on, but its just been beaten to much and rear ended sometime in its past. I'm done buying other peoples' bandaged and ridden hard-put away wet ponies."<<<

THE TRUTH.

[phsycostang]

Originally Posted by 1gunner23 Being that your going to build on a convertible first and for most i would strengthin your body. i.e... subframe conectors, strut tower braces, torque box plates.

Even before I get to the subframe connectors and similar (I hadn't heard ofthe torque box plates...I'll have to look into those, thanks,) What can/should I do to the frame itself to make sure its in the best shape possible? I've heard of acid dips and stuff. If possible, I would like to avoid the strut tower braces as I don't care for the look.

[1gunner23]

well first off what year stang are you working on, this might help me track down some helpful parts while i'm on the web, if you would like.

here are thoes torque boxes

http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...115+4294843204

[psychostang]

I'm rebuilding from a 89 vert gt body, and have an 88 vert gt with a rebuilt engine that I'm driving now, trying to get the motor up and going good while I start getting into something decent to put it in

[turp]

chassis chassis chassis!!!!!! Stiffen that chassis. The vert fox is about the worst chassis for poor handling and flex. before you get the power you need to get the chassis right.

[PJZona]

If you want to start strong with everything clean and then build a monster, let me know.
Pjzona@cox.net or (602) 920-7383
pete

[imprteatr]

i learned that the chassis is first the hard way with my 89 gt vert i opted for torque box reinforcement subframe connectors and a 10 point cage from s & w race cars. before you even start youve got to know whether itll be street or full performance :award :award :award [img][/img]

[dr.gonzo!]

you should make sure the frame is straight first before you start welding stuff in permanently. A good body shop will be able to tell if it is out of wack.

I dont really know what the frame looks like on a fox but if it is possible it is a good Idea to box the frame. im sure you know what that means but if you dont than here is the best website I could find.

http://www.hotrodsandhorsepower.com/rails.html


The picture in the lower left hand corner of the first pic is what the frame should look like. Insted of this [ it should look like this []. w/o the gap damn computers.[/url]

[ReverendDexter]

Originally Posted by phsycostang If possible, I would like to avoid the strut tower braces as I don't care for the look.

That's unfortuanate, as a strut tower brace would be be your friend. I have seen a setup on an AE86 Corolla that acts like an STB that doesn't go over the top of the motor, instead it has plates that connect the strut tower to the firewall. You could also look at something like the "import brace" on 60's Mustangs, though I've never seen anything like that on a fox.

+1 for all the suggestions of chassis bracing. I know Maximum Motorsports sells a chassis brace kit, might make your life easier to get it all at once.

A couple other things I'd suggest, go with a quality top with a glass window, and make sure everything in your interior is somewhat water resistant. Sounds obvious, but the one time you get caught in a sudden downpour and you loose some speakers 'cause they get wet...

Oh, and FYI - convertible with top down in a rainstorm....
62 mph will keep the front passengers dry
72 mph will keep most of the interior dry
80 mph will keep everything dry

[TurboLX]

sub frame connectors

[Stangzilla]

I keep hearing acid dipping ang boxing the frame. Fox bodies are of uni-body construction and the body cannot be removed for acid dipping like a full frame car can. Also because of the uni-body construction boxing of the frame cannot be done either.

[ken5_0]

And you want it done right but wont use a tower brace because you dont like the looks? I have a 90 GT vert and you can tell the difference from bone flexxy stock to a ridgid tight ride when your set up right. With the verts, power isnt the only thing that will twist them, corners will too. TIRE ROLL SUCKS!!!

[Stangzilla]

A nice add on for your vert that is way better than just sub-frame connectors is this check it out....

http://www.evolutionmsport.com/evmCa...&products_id=8

[homebrewed]

Nice info on the "vert int. staying dry @ speed" ratings much funny!!

If you REALLY wanna add some good stiff to a uni-body, weld in some sub frame connectors and try some cross bracing underneath the car. Ie. On the subframes, add a small plate to the front, rear, wherever you have room and drill a hole, thread it, run a GOOD grade bolt thru it and add a cross brace.

If you are confused, take a look under a Mitsu Evo. Got 'em from the factory. That might help with the illustration.

Like ReverendDexter said; The "strut brace will be your good friend" Trust that my friend

[Stangzilla]

Originally Posted by homebrewed Nice info on the "vert int. staying dry @ speed" ratings much funny!! If you REALLY wanna add some good stiff to a uni-body, weld in some sub frame connectors and try some cross bracing underneath the car. Ie. On the subframes, add a small plate to the front, rear, wherever you have room and drill a hole, thread it, run a GOOD grade bolt thru it and add a cross brace. If you are confused, take a look under a Mitsu Evo. Got 'em from the factory. That might help with the illustration. Like ReverendDexter said; The "strut brace will be your good friend" Trust that my friend

Just click the link in my post Evolution Motorsports makes X-braces for Mustangs..

[Rustbelt]

i too have a vert. it might as well be a cardboard box with a v-8 and wheels. foxes re-define flex. there are sharp looking functional strut tower braces out there. i use a 3 point brace. there are k-member braces out there as well.

[psychostang]

Its been a while, and I'm starting to get back into my 88/89 vert. I've been driving/limping around fixing what I need to as I can.

I have just got some pretty good advice regarding stuttering. (E303, GT40 Heads, Edy Style Intake, AOD, & Cold Air) I was told to get the timing rechecked/reset. Is there anything anyone knows about regarding setting the timing for an E303 Cam? If that is not it I am wondering if the ignition system is out of whack/has a weak spot. I can smell gas/fumes a lot of the time, seeming to come out of the tailpipe, so its fires are not getting lit right (shit, is anyone's?)

So, right now, if anyone has anything on timing settings for E303 please let me know.. I've heard it should run pretty smooth, but its pretty rough.

Thanks - Psyched