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#1 |
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Enthusiast
1993 mustang gt
stock
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: utica ky
Posts: 546
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brake question
I just changed the brake pads on my 93 gt and now when i brake hard the car shakes fairly bad is it just because they need to be broke in or is there another underlying problem i am using the duralast gold series
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#2 |
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Regular
1992 Mustang GT
dont know yet
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Anderson California
Posts: 113
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Did you get new rotors or get the old ones turned?
Sent from my Autoguide iPhone app
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______________ Mods: Paxton Novi 2000 @10psi 3.73 gears 255lph fuel pump Lucas 42# injectors Trick Flow 75mm upper intake Trick Flow 75mm throttle body Diablo "MAFia" Dyno tuned by Force Fed performance Sacramento Ca |
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#3 |
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Enthusiast
1993 mustang gt
stock
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: utica ky
Posts: 546
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I didnt but i didnt notice any grooves the pads i took off were only half worn so i just left it alone i definately would have if i pulld the old pads off n they were worn to the metal but it looked like the brake pads were kept up with on the car
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#4 |
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Enthusiast
1993 mustang gt
stock
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: utica ky
Posts: 546
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It didnt shake that bad before but maybe im just gettn on it more now that i know for sure my brake pad condition i only notice the shaking when braking at high speeds its smooth when coming to a slow stop but braking at 60 + i get a good shake maybe its cuz i got rid of the cheapo pads n these have a bit more bite as i opted for the top of the line model instead of the corrosive prone cheapyz
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#5 |
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Newbie
1989 notch
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: nj
Posts: 18
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rotors maybe wharped
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#6 |
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Enthusiast
1993 mustang gt
stock
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: utica ky
Posts: 546
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K ill probly just get some new rotors thats the only thing it could be i guess cuz the calipers are fine and my brake lines are good
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#7 |
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MM Fanatic
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The rotors are heating up more than they were before. Three things come to mind..
- The new pads might be slightly larger and using part of the rotor that the old pads weren't. This could be causing the whole pad to not be hitting the rotor evenly causing uneven heating (My most recent set of Duralast are doing that now on one of my cars but its the back and not as noticeable). The pad will eventually wear into the rotor pattern. - One of the pads or one of the sides the pads are stuck not allowing the caliper to slide correctly causing the other side to brake more or one of the pads is always on the rotor heating it up. - The new pads are different material (like ceramic) and they don't transfer heat away from the rotor as well as some semi metallic pads. That in itself is not a bad thing but older thinner rotors might not be able to handle the extra heat. Take the wheels off and relook at everything. If pads look in good order and everything is moving as it should and lubed up and smooth, get new rotors and wheel bearings. Lastly, a wobble with high speed braking but the wobble goes away as the car slows sounds like exactly what happens when the lug nuts aren't tight or the seating area where the lug nuts meet the rim is getting oblong.
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Last edited by nolife; September 21st, 2011 at 10:44 PM. |
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#8 |
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Enthusiast
1993 mustang gt
stock
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: utica ky
Posts: 546
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Im positive the lugs are tight i tightened them up pretty good before i lowered the car then i torqued them on after the car was on the ground pretty standard procedure for any tire removal for myself the pads are very thick so im thinkn maybe they need to be worn in but if it doesnt go away soon ill be replacing the rotors and bearings thanks for the input ppl youve all given me helpful input hopefully i can lick this problem and wait for the next one to pop up ive had quite a few issues with this car but its to be expected even on a low mileage car such as mine
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