[VM0824]

So im almost stock. want to put an on3performance turbo, but engine has 150k+.

thinking maybe i need a rebuild if im gonna turbo it to almost 500hp. im pretty sure the 89's came with forged pistons? dunno if thats true. but im pretty ignorant on everything else. so im thinking $$$. whats involved in a rebuild to get this thing power ready?

also maybe a turbo cam. stroker kit? idk what it'll cost to bore over alittle but im still just brainstorming

[fogged306]

Stroker and boost will put you past the safe limits of a stock 302 block. If you're going with an on3 I would keep it stock cubes. 3" stroke will last a lot longer at those power levels than a 3.25" or 3.4". If your engine is bone stock then it won't cost a whole lot to replace, if it were me, I would just slap the on3 on it as is and let it eat, just my .02.

If you want some piece of mind, then pull it and have the block checked, if it needs a bore, then bore it the minimum amount that you can, get some new pistons and re-use the stock crank and rods if they're in good shape. While you're in there replace the valve springs. Yes 89's had forged pistons. A turbo cam is a good idea but not really needed because there's a lot of people making some pretty impressive numbers with those kits and stock longblocks. It will improve output though if you're looking for extra power.

[VM0824]

Thanks for the input. If you think my engine will survive then I won't even touch it until it breaks. I was only going to stroke it if I already had it apart for a rebuild, but if it'll be ok then forget it.

So then all I should need is new fuel pump, injector (30# enough?), and maf?

[horsepowerjunkie]

I'd go Walbro 255 fuel pump, 42 Lbs injectors, Matching MAF and a tune/chip burnt!

[fogged306]

I never said I think it will last, I just said that's what I would do, lol. It may last, it may blow up the first time you get on it, no clue on the condition of your engine. I just look at it like this, if it blows up, you're really not out a whole lot of money because these longblocks can be had for 350-400 all day long. I'm the type that's willing to take that chance as opposed to spending the money on a rebuild in the first place. Maybe you're not, in which case rebuilding it would be the better option.

[VM0824]

na haha im wit you on the not spending the money deal

[VM0824]

how do i know what kind of maf to get. like that matches? fits? etc. also, clutch suggestions?

[fogged306]

If you're running it before the turbo, it can be a normal draw through MAF. If you run it after the turbo it has to be a blow through MAF. Size it according to the cold side piping size. The calibration doesn't matter as long as you're getting it tuned and it has a published curve because you input those parameters into the tune, essentially telling the cars computer how that particular MAF works. I would go with an LMAF if you want something cheap or an abaco dbx if you want something you can almost never outgrow.

[VM0824]

what are the pros/cons of blow through vs draw through. the kit has the option for a pro-m mass air meter, pigtails, oil fillter reloc, and walbro 255lph pump for 364 extra. does this seem like a good price? cuz at this point im really all about squeezing this into my budget

or even better i found it on ebay from their kit for 195. on3 maf

[VM0824]

also whats a lmaf? lightning mass air flow? just guessing. and i would but i need to make it fit into a slot style solid pipe.

i was looking on craigslist and found a guy selling
"C&L meter cal'd for 42lbs - $70 is for Foxbody"
and a
"Lighting Maf meter cal'd for 42lb injectors - $75"

but thats a whole section of pipe with a mass air meter already installed. could ii get this to fit into a slot style pipe like this?

[fogged306]

Yep LMAF is a lightning meter. They're not calibrated for any specific injector though. Lots of people think they're calibrated for 42's because thats what the lightnings had stock, but that's not true. You have to get a tune to run one of those meters, which you need when you go turbo anyway. You can get adapters to make them fit your intake piping. You just cut out a section of the cold side and use rubber couplers to attach the meter. Like I said, stay away from those C&L meters though.

I've never played with an on3 meter so i couldn't tell you how good they are or what do do with them. Also not sure what pro's/cos would be for using a draw thru as opposed to a blow through. I can't really see there being much of a difference in the quality of the signal between the two. You just have to make sure that you get the correct one for the application. Meaning, before the turbo, use a draw through, after the turbo use a blow through. Just depends on where you mount the MAF as to what kind you need. If you use a draw through after the turbo or vice-versa, you'll get skewed readings and it'll be hard to tune.

[VM0824]

Well on 3 has a blow through. So wouldn't there be some fair pressure trying to escape around the maf to the point where I wouldn't generally want to be cutting pipe and risking a leak? Is the lmaf meant for blow through or draw through? Cuz the on 3 is blow through I believe. Anyway to disassemble the lmaf to mount as a slot mount?

[fogged306]

LMAF is draw through as far as I know. If you buy an actual on3 kit then just use the meter they supply. If you don't and you buy your own meter, it doesn't matter what the on3 kit comes with, you can run an LMAF before the turbo like I mentioned before with rubber couplers. As far as cutting the pipe after the turbo, you just have to make sure you get couplers rated for boost. Lots of people put MAF's on like that. My truck has a rubber coupler after the turbo and before the intake and it sees 20lbs on occasion.

[VM0824]

only reason i was gonna go cheap is cuz the on3 senor isnt included. its an extra 195 or something like that. ill prob just go with it anyway to keep things simple.

now about teh fuel pump and injectors. i see alot of 255 lph pumps around. im guessing i should go external? was even looking used around $50. what do i need to look for as far as compatibility? or just anything around 255lph? i noticed some specift carburetor and some not. and some have really low psi (around 7).

[fogged306]

You need a pump designed for injection which are the higher pressure pumps. The ones that are 7psi are the ones for carb cars. You're going to want to replace the in-tank one with a 255 at least and maybe an external boost pump too. Or you can go with a 340lph in-tank and should be fine for an on3 kit and stock cubes.

[VM0824]

wouldnt having my stock pump work with an external 255 benefit me even more? i did some calculations around the idea that im already overdoing it with the 42lb injectors cuz im not gonna push more than 500hp i presume. some online calc told me that id need 343cc/min injectors, which is like 32lb/hr. even with all that i got 47gph min. and the 255 converts to 67. no?

[1LOUDGT]

Go with the 255 intank. Your stock pump will go out soon enough and need to be replaced anyway. I doubt you need anything more but you can always add a boost a pump if needed.

[94bossgt]

if you are buying an on3 kit they offer the maf and injectors for an extra price just go on there site and do some research

[VM0824]

there site is realllly vague with its parts. i just got off the phone. they have 42lb bosch injectors for 319 and an intank walbro 255 for 100. might have to take em up on that

[VM0824]

i called three places. nobody wants to tune it. the only place with a eec iv data logger i had to beg just to get him to consider it. he said prob 500 but if it takes a whole day maybe 1000 or more. odd though, he says he doesnt need a chip because he has a ford eec flasher? and he can directly reflash the computer the same way ford does. but he'd throw in a free chip anyway if i wanted cuz he has a "draw" full of them. sound expensive or is it just me. btw im central jersey