Intake manifold swap turned into disaster. Need help!
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Old September 30th, 2011, 03:52 AM   #1
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Intake manifold swap turned into disaster. Need help!


Tonight I did a intake manifold swap to the holly system max 2 and I blocked the vacuum lines to the egr. I have been told that this can cause the timing to change. However, now every time I advance the distributor, it sounds like something shorts, and the injecters spew fuel into the cylinders. The fuel pressure gauge shows 10 pounds (which is weird) but the car refuses to turn over and start. I am getting some blow back from the intake manifold though. I did block the bottom hole in the upper intake manifold and routed the pcv directly from the front 3/8ths vacuum line. Don't know if that would cause a problem or not. I am not getting constant fuel pressure and there have been no other engine modifications to the engine up until this point.
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Old September 30th, 2011, 07:56 AM   #2
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unplug the EGR, the computer will delete it from the tune that way.

Is the battery dead?
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Old September 30th, 2011, 08:17 AM   #3
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Is the battery dead?[/QUOTE]

LOL! That would be a good thing to check!
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Old September 30th, 2011, 03:03 PM   #4
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The battery has been hooked up to a second battery and they both have juice, I checked it with a volt meter. I also left the egr unplugged from the sensor, and all vacuum lines going to it are plugged.
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Old September 30th, 2011, 03:21 PM   #5
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What about the PCV line? I had that happen last week, the car wouldnt idle at all. Got it fixed and its fine now.
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Old September 30th, 2011, 03:30 PM   #6
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There's a hole at the bottom of the upper intake manifold that I capped off. In the installation instructions the pcv line was routed under the intake. I ran the pcv using the front vacuum connector only, directly to the pcv instead of putting a 3/8ths vacuum tee on the bottom hole.
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Old September 30th, 2011, 03:35 PM   #7
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Thats your problem hook that back up! You can block that off. I am running two with my taller valve covers, but that one for some reason messed my car up bad. As soon as I plugged it back in it was fine.
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Old September 30th, 2011, 03:43 PM   #8
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Really hoped I wouldn't have to take the upper off, the Allen wrench bolts are a pain in the ass but ill give it a shot. I'll report back once that's done.
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Old September 30th, 2011, 03:53 PM   #9
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Before you do anything just look at this and make sure its all hooked up right. Its confusing sometimes.

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Old September 30th, 2011, 04:27 PM   #10
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Everything else is hooked up right, just that one pcv line. Going to put the tree on I guess.
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Old September 30th, 2011, 04:42 PM   #11
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I would and if you can fish your hand in the back you can hook that line back up with out taking the intake off.
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Old September 30th, 2011, 06:18 PM   #12
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Well the pcv line is connected, just not routed the way its illustrated in the instructions. I called holleys support line and they said that doing it the way I had it was fine. So now I'm back to square one. I don't know what to do.
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Old September 30th, 2011, 06:27 PM   #13
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Can you post a video of what it is doing? I would love to help you figure this out.
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Old September 30th, 2011, 06:56 PM   #14
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I'll see what I can do about the video
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Old October 1st, 2011, 09:18 AM   #15
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Ok cool. There isnt a lot that can really go wrong wth these cars, so If I can just see what it is doing exactly I can help you.
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Old October 10th, 2011, 06:05 PM   #16
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Update(finally lol): the car is running finally, got a new used distributor, spark plugs cap and wires to replace the ones already on the car. The purge canister is disconnected so cold starts are a bit of a pain. However, when you fix one problem, more pop up. The idle is terrible. Drops down to the point where its almost about to die on me then pops back up and repeats the process. So, vacuum leak somewhere. The other problem is my throttle body is leaking oil. The valve stem coming off the valve cover has a 3/8 line coming off of it that is routed to the trottle body which i assume is how oil got in there in the first place. however it seems to be leaking from the bottom of the throttle body where the actual throttle which opens the butterfly is at. My question is, is if ok to cap off the line entirely or should I replace the throttle body itself? For anyone wondering, its a professional products product, 70mm. I didn't think it was necessary to pay 290$ for a holley one.
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