Engine bay wire hiding

MIGHTYJO3YOUNG · October 18th, 2011, 01:30 PM

I have been hiding the wires and got everything done, then I wanted to hide the vacuum tree in the fender since I have it off at the moment. My cruise control didn't work all of the sudden one day while I was in the middle of using it. Just stopped for no reason. Well, I think I have found the reason. I disconnected all of the vacuum lines and they all have oil in them. The tube running from the tree to the cruise canister had a ton blocking the little separator that puts the two lines together. It took a little effort to blow it out, but I think this is deff my problem with the cruise control. I'm thinking I really need to invest in a oil catcher from my pvc. I remember the last time I took the upper off there was an odd amount of oil in it. Other than that the bay looks AWESOME! other than the holes that are all over now because I have the engine in still and cant weld them. Maybe one day! I'll post pics later. Just thought it was an interesting cause for the cruise control to stop working.

MIGHTYJO3YOUNG · October 18th, 2011, 03:15 PM

I also posted up a while ago about having a bad idle surge problem on startup. After rerouting all my wires and drilling new grounds I have no idle surge at all. This problem was fixed before messing with vacuum lines, and there were no leaks with vacuum. I had torn the upper off searching for the problem, and all this time I think it was bad grounds.

ryanw · October 18th, 2011, 11:49 PM

Glad to hear the problems been fixed. Did you have to splice a lot of wires and drill a bunch more holes to re rout them through the fenders ?

MIGHTYJO3YOUNG · October 19th, 2011, 01:35 AM

ehh unfortunately cruise is still out. There are other things I will look into to fix that. As far as the wire re-routing goes I didn't have to splice very much. Only once actually for the wires that go to the brake booster fluid tank. Everything fit in the two holes behind each strut tower without having to make them any bigger. Only drilled to remount sensors in different locations. I also had to buy some wire to replace the starter cables to the solenoid so they would reach. Soldered up nice and tight. I am very pleased, although it took a lot of time, its worth the clean look.

here are some pics of the process, and the finished product.

fogged306 · October 19th, 2011, 01:37 AM

When I did mine, I only drilled one hole for my engine harness, and that's only because I wanted it to come out directly behind the engine so you couldn't see it. The way I did mine, there was quite a bit of splicing, but you could get away with a lot less than I did. Not much actually had to be extended at all.

MIGHTYJO3YOUNG · October 19th, 2011, 02:04 AM

did you run your harness behind the dash?

fogged306 · October 19th, 2011, 03:40 AM

Yea, the whole engine harness runs along the inside of the firewall. I cut the salt and pepper shakers out and just made it into one single harness coming out behind the intake.

October 18th, 2011, 01:30 PM	#1
MIGHTYJO3YOUNG Enthusiast 1992 mustang Lx 13.4@ 106 Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: MD Posts: 569 iTrader: 0 reviews	Engine bay wire hiding I have been hiding the wires and got everything done, then I wanted to hide the vacuum tree in the fender since I have it off at the moment. My cruise control didn't work all of the sudden one day while I was in the middle of using it. Just stopped for no reason. Well, I think I have found the reason. I disconnected all of the vacuum lines and they all have oil in them. The tube running from the tree to the cruise canister had a ton blocking the little separator that puts the two lines together. It took a little effort to blow it out, but I think this is deff my problem with the cruise control. I'm thinking I really need to invest in a oil catcher from my pvc. I remember the last time I took the upper off there was an odd amount of oil in it. Other than that the bay looks AWESOME! other than the holes that are all over now because I have the engine in still and cant weld them. Maybe one day! I'll post pics later. Just thought it was an interesting cause for the cruise control to stop working. __________________ 1992 5.0 lx_soon to be powered by a m122 GT500 supercharger

October 18th, 2011, 03:15 PM	#2
MIGHTYJO3YOUNG Enthusiast 1992 mustang Lx 13.4@ 106 Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: MD Posts: 569 iTrader: 0 reviews	I also posted up a while ago about having a bad idle surge problem on startup. After rerouting all my wires and drilling new grounds I have no idle surge at all. This problem was fixed before messing with vacuum lines, and there were no leaks with vacuum. I had torn the upper off searching for the problem, and all this time I think it was bad grounds. __________________ 1992 5.0 lx_soon to be powered by a m122 GT500 supercharger

October 18th, 2011, 11:49 PM	#3
ryanw I Post Entirely Way Too Much 1991 Ford Mustang GT Join Date: May 2007 Location: San Diego, California Posts: 6,063 iTrader: 0 reviews	Glad to hear the problems been fixed. Did you have to splice a lot of wires and drill a bunch more holes to re rout them through the fenders ? __________________ DART 331ci stroker, AFR 185 heads, Trick Flow R intake, Accufab 70mm tb, 75mm pro m Maf, 30lb injectors, jba headers, 2 1/2" x pipe flowmaster super 10 mufflers, 255 fuel pump, 3:27 gears

October 19th, 2011, 01:35 AM	#4
MIGHTYJO3YOUNG Enthusiast 1992 mustang Lx 13.4@ 106 Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: MD Posts: 569 iTrader: 0 reviews	ehh unfortunately cruise is still out. There are other things I will look into to fix that. As far as the wire re-routing goes I didn't have to splice very much. Only once actually for the wires that go to the brake booster fluid tank. Everything fit in the two holes behind each strut tower without having to make them any bigger. Only drilled to remount sensors in different locations. I also had to buy some wire to replace the starter cables to the solenoid so they would reach. Soldered up nice and tight. I am very pleased, although it took a lot of time, its worth the clean look. here are some pics of the process, and the finished product. __________________ 1992 5.0 lx_soon to be powered by a m122 GT500 supercharger Last edited by MIGHTYJO3YOUNG; October 19th, 2011 at 01:45 AM.

October 19th, 2011, 02:04 AM	#6
MIGHTYJO3YOUNG Enthusiast 1992 mustang Lx 13.4@ 106 Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: MD Posts: 569 iTrader: 0 reviews	did you run your harness behind the dash? __________________ 1992 5.0 lx_soon to be powered by a m122 GT500 supercharger

October 19th, 2011, 01:37 AM	#5
fogged306 MM Fanatic 89 GT Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: NY Posts: 4,875 iTrader: 2 reviews	When I did mine, I only drilled one hole for my engine harness, and that's only because I wanted it to come out directly behind the engine so you couldn't see it. The way I did mine, there was quite a bit of splicing, but you could get away with a lot less than I did. Not much actually had to be extended at all.

October 19th, 2011, 03:40 AM	#7
fogged306 MM Fanatic 89 GT Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: NY Posts: 4,875 iTrader: 2 reviews	Yea, the whole engine harness runs along the inside of the firewall. I cut the salt and pepper shakers out and just made it into one single harness coming out behind the intake.

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