[chadjones99]

ok, well if your having problems and you do not have all your sensors plugged in on a computer controlled car, then i would start there.
i have heard that the computer does watch air temp for timming but i could be wrong

[hopper]

i confused the sending unit with the ECT. however the prob still isn't cured. can the sending unit be replaced with an aftermarket gauge.
still getting codes of 67,81, and 82

[neverfastenough1]

I will go out on a limb here and say the original is needed for the ecm reading, but not positive. I do know the original wiring has to be plugged up. Maybe someone can tell you they modified their wiring and you can use the aftermarket unit. I would get a aftermarket stat housing that will accept the sending unit. Put the original in the stat housing and the aftermarket in the intake manifold. Hopefully someone else can help with that or give another suggestion.

[neverfastenough1]

Shooting in the dark here, but do you have a smog pump? The list of codes I have says 81 & 82 are secondary air injection valves. Those are the valves that control the air flow from the air pump. If that is so you could have a bad valve. Do you have cats? If so they could be bad causing your bypass valve to stay open. Just shooting in the dark, and I think you have convinced me to go with a carb. Tengram is the expert in troubleshooting codes as far as I can tell. Maybe he can give you a hint.

[hopper]

i do have a smog pump that is relatively new when i got the car.. The cats are still on the car, but look like they had some hard miles on them....

[ryans88gt]

I can tell you this much, your sending unit for the gauge is not related to the problem. That is a very simple circuit for the gauge only and does not even go to the computer wiring harness. The ECT sensor takes care of that job.

Here is something to try. Unplug the O2 sensors from the wiring harness and see if the problem gets worse, better, or stays the same.

When I had a speed density system in my 88, the O2 sensor correction started trimming too much fuel, so disconnecting them made the car run better...a little rich at idle, but it actually picked up a few tenths in the quarter.

[hopper]

the oxygen sensors are brand new.... if this is the prob and i unplug them,, will this not create the car to run rich all the time? Also does anyone know how to clear the computer of codes

[ryans88gt]

Originally Posted by hopper the oxygen sensors are brand new.... if this is the prob and i unplug them,, will this not create the car to run rich all the time? Also does anyone know how to clear the computer of codes

Well the O2 sensors are only there for correction, so technically if your car is running perfectly you don't even need them. They are mostly an emissions piece to limit the amount of unburned fuel and NOX that gets put into the atmosphere.
However, if your car is running lean to begin with they might be the problem.

Are they the correct O2 sensor from Ford? Or are they aftermarket? If you unplug them and its the problem, you can consider getting new O2 sensors from Ford. In my experience, it will run a little rich at idle, but not much while you are actually driving it.

Anyway, you can always plug them back in if it doesn't help anything.

On the other hand, if you car is running rich, unplugging them will make it run worse and will at least help you narrow down the problem.

I have to say, I don't really miss fuel infection that much.

[ryans88gt]

Also I think the codes are self clearing after a certain number of on off cycles, between 20 and 80 if I remember correctly

[hopper]

k cool...well to be honest i am getting very very close to switching intakes and throwing on a carb.... any one company you can suggest

[ryans88gt]

Here is just another thought, but have you checked your fuel pressure?
If your pump is about to die, it might also be causing your fuel problem.

[hopper]

i am being very stupid right now.....what kind of unit devise would ya use to test the pressure with? is there a cheap pressure gauge that i can buy