[5.0doktor18]

i have a 93 5.0 lx. just upgraded new mishimoto radiator and electric fan. looking to clean up engine compartment and squeeze out few more hp that this "gives" you ppl say but anyway.. im sure there are other people on here that have done the smog/AC delete to their car..my questions are what exactly do i need to get to do this? Does anyone have a step by step how to do it for either? any pictures would def. help. thanks

[WildStang88]

I'll be doing this to my current motor as well, so I'll be interested to what people give for advice. I think it should be pretty straight forward though, de-pressurize the AC system disconnect the lines etc. Some people use the eliminator brackets while others bypass that even and go straight from the water pump to the alternator and tensioner to the power steering.

[5.0doktor18]

ya i think it is pretty much, i just thought it would be worth a shot puttin up a thread. just wana double check make sure im doin it right or make sure im pullin off the right stuff lol

[ryanw]

if your still runing your FACTORY CATs they will burn up or get cloged with out the smog pump, pump air into them. If you have after market cats or no cats at all then you will be alright in getting rid of the smog pump.

[5.0doktor18]

i have an BBK h-pipe on my car so that should be ok. do you guys how to go about de-pressurizing the system tho? never thought of that..there a certain way or just disconnect it?

[WildStang88]

You'll have to have a shop do that. Don't go just disconnecting it, not a smart idea lol

[ryanw]

depressurise the A/C system ? if thats what your asking you have two choices, take it to a auto shop and they will recover the freon, or two wich by law is illegal, but you take out the schrader valve out ( or push it in and let it leak out) or just loosen one of the fittings some where in the a/c system, in a matter of a min or two the system will be empty. But again i must state that this is against the law. so should you do this, do not do it in public and make sure your in a ventilated area, do not breath it in.

[5.0doktor18]

im trying to look it up how to but everyone keeps sayin you need a special tool..why cant you just disconnect or cut the hoses..what exactly is under "pressure'? sorry trying to learn..

[5.0doktor18]

ohh ok thats interesting never knew that. thanks

[WildStang88]

Refrigerant is whats under pressure. Think of an aerosol can, you got your liquid and pressure inside... without it having any pressure nothing comes out. Refrigerant circulates through the system because of the compressor (and pressure). I hope I didn't confuse you.

[ryanw]

Originally Posted by 5.0doktor18 im trying to look it up how to but everyone keeps sayin you need a special tool..why cant you just disconnect or cut the hoses..what exactly is under "pressure'? sorry trying to learn..

yes to do it right( legally) you need special tools. You would need A/C gauges, a vacuum pump, a recovery machine, and a recovery can.

[WildStang88]

http://www.2ndlifetools.com/images/2...e%20duvals.JPG

http://www.jsjjt.com/usr/20/upload/p...2708435397.jpg

[ryanw]

the freon under pressure is a liquid, it get pumped by your compressor to the E-vap coil. ( e-vap coil is under dash) where it get sprayed in like a fuel injector, inside the car. air passes over the e-vap coil blowing cold air into your car.,the freon warms up and becomes a gas. it then retuns to the condeser coil (its the radiator looking thing in front of your radiator) where your cars engine fan helps to remove the heat from the freon, it then get pumped back into the compressor, and the freon is compressed back into a liquid...then it starts all over again

[5.0doktor18]

another question..how do you go about plugging the spot on the intake manifold and then i hurd there is one on the heads? can you just block them off with a bolt or..? thanks

[ryanw]

are you talking about the cross over tube on the back of your cylinder heads ?

[5.0doktor18]

yes and there is one that is on my intake also on the right side. i have TF street heat intake

[5.0doktor18]

i just looked it up and i dont believe its that. i could be wrong. ive just read up on ppl having to plug a bung on the back of the heads when they do the deletes

[ryanw]

yes there are two holes you will have to plug if you take the cross over pipe off( the cross over pipe is not what its really called, but i cant remember what else to call it. and most people know what your talking about when you say that). its easy to take off, its two small bolts that you remove, and under the pipe there are two lare holes, just plug them up and your done. cant remember the size bolts though that you will need to plug it up. maybe some one else can post the answer to that



im drawing a blank on any thing having to do with smog on the intake other then the EGR valve

[5.0doktor18]

ok that helps ill have to take a closer look at it tomarrow durning the day. maybe snap some pictures

[mcglsr2]

I recently removed the smog pump on my 95 Mustang, it was pretty straight forward. Here's a link to a PDF how-to with pics:
http://www.allfordmustangs.com/techarticles/Smog2.pdf

It was done on a 94/95 5.0, but should still be applicable to your 5.0. You also might need a different bolt size for the back of your heads. Mine was 9/16 like the instructions said, but I had to clean out the threads from all the carbon build-up before the bolt would even thread in.

For my mid pipe, I just got a huge bolt that would fit the hose on the little pipe thing that ran to the smog stuff, cut the hose down a little, put the bolt in there, and used a worm gear clamp on it. I haven't had any issues.

I'm running a non-catted mid pipe, by the way. Oh, and that cross over pipe is called something like the thermactor pipe or air injection pipe or something like that. And I didn't have to remove any smog stuff from the intake, the only "connections" were to the air pump and mid pipe, though you WILL have to plug two vacuum lines, I used two small bolts and zip ties for this.

Lastly, I used a new serpentine belt rather than a $70 dead pulley on a bracket. I tried 3 belt sizes, 90.5", 90.8" and 91.0". 90.5" was just too short, it maxed out my tensioner and made it chatter, 91.0" was too long, and 90.8" was just right. YMMV with the belt sizes - I kept everything else (PS, AC, alt, etc). If you are removing the AC, you'll obviously want a smaller size.

As for codes, I now get two new codes during KOER: 311 - (AIR system not working - Single, Right or Rear HO2S - Air Injection) and 314 - (AIR inoperative, Left or Front HO2S - Air Injection) which makes sense, since the AIR stuff was removed. I also periodically get a check engine light, usually after cruising for a while - the computer is trying to turn on the AIR stuff and it's not working (obviously) so it throws a MIL for about 30 seconds, then it goes away. It doesn't affect driving at all.