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#1 |
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Regular
1990 5.0 Smokin' AOD LX
14.27@100.77
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: ABQ ,NM
Posts: 171
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Dry Nitrous Kit
I know that most people support wet over dry but i came across a really good deal on a ZEX Dry Nitrous kit. Anybody here running a Zex or any other dry nitrous kit? I'd like to hear some feedback, accompanying mod advice.
My kit is a 105HP dry kit, I am thinking that i will need to add a 255LPH pump and a SCT multi tune chip.
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90 Mustang LX 5.0 T5 swapped,Mac CAI,intake,Timing,E-Fan,headers,H Pipe,Dumps,Gears,Control Arms,and diet http://www.fictionalversus.com/index.php my second love |
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#2 |
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Enthusiast
1991 gt vert
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: st louis
Posts: 727
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i've got a zex wet kit that i have not ran yet. i'm going to wait. im putting back together a 46k motor (new gaskets,oil pump, timing chain,p head explober intake,tfs stage 1, ect...ect..) motor sat for 10 years on a pallat in my buddys garage and i just want to freashen it up. i'd rather run it on that than the 180k motor in the car now.from what i read about the zex dry kit is that it increases fuel preasure by putting more vacume to your existing fuel presure regulator. it also has a built in W.O.T. switch that takes it's reading from the T.P.S. .
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#3 |
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Authorized Vendor
![]() Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Covington, GA
Posts: 354
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Although I haven't personally run a dry shot like that, I don't really like the way this setup adds more fuel. Bumping up fuel pressure means the amount of fuel added comes up as RPM comes up but the nitrous flow is constant, meaning you'd either be dangerously lean down low or pig rich at the top - or both at once, if you're really unlucky. Large dry shots are better if you have oversized injectors and an ECU that can run different fueling for on and off the bottle.
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#4 |
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Regular
1994 Mustang Cobra
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 185
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‘WET’ VS. ‘DRY’ NITROUS SYSTEMS
The debate between the so-called ‘Wet’ and ‘Dry’ nitrous systems has been active for almost two decades. At NitrousWorks we prefer the ‘Wet’ principal, which simply means that both fuel and nitrous oxide are injected together at the spray bar or nozzle. A ‘Dry’ system injects nitrous oxide alone without and additional fuel for the engine. We believe that a properly engineered ‘Wet’ system is a safer way to inject nitrous oxide into an engine. The objective of nitrous oxide is to make more horsepower, which is achieved in two ways. Firstly, nitrous oxide comprises one-part oxygen and two-parts nitrogen. This is a much higher percentage of oxygen than that found in the atmosphere and, because of this, the additional oxygen being forced into the combustion chamber provides more potential power. Nonetheless, the additional power cannot be realized safely without enrichening the amount of fuel in the combustion chamber. The second way nitrous oxide will increase an engine's horsepower is by cooling the air charge from the atmosphere. One of the most important aspects of keeping an engine healthy when using nitrous oxide is to ensure it operates at the proper air/fuel ratio. Running too lean can cause detonation, resulting in damaged engine parts. Running too rich can also harm performance and destroy engine parts, too. At NitrousWorks we flow-test our systems to calibrate them. Once calibrated, they'll inject the proper amount of fuel with the nitrous system to maintain the correct air/fuel ratio. We also ensure the amount of nitrous that the system is engineered to dispense does not exceed that which the intake system can flow. This prevents fuel ‘puddling’ or distribution problems. A further advantage of a ‘Wet’ system is that it lends itself to fine-tuning. By adjusting the fuel pressure and fuel orifice, either up or down from the baseline, the system's performance can be further improved. In addition, on a direct-port nitrous system each cylinder can be fine tuned to optimize performance and overcome rich or lean cylinders that the engine may have naturally aspirated. A ‘Dry’ nitrous system relies on the vehicle's computer system sensing that the engine is, say, running too lean and adding additional fuel. Most stock computer systems were not designed for this purpose, and may have difficulty in The internal-combustion engine is basically a large air pump and its ability to pump air is one of the factors, which determine how much power it can produce. Air contains oxygen and by drawing more oxygen into the combustion chamber, more power will be produced. In order to achieve efficient combustion, the air needs to be mixed with fuel in the correct ratio. The stoichiometric (chemically correct) ratio is for basic gasoline is 14.7 parts air to 1 part of fuel. Greater quantities of oxygen can be drawn into the combustion chamber by simply introducing nitrous oxide. By weight, Nitrous contains 36% oxygen while air has only 23%. A charge of nitrous oxide is capable of burning much more fuel than the equivalent amount of air. Because nitrous is more oxygen-rich than air, the recommended air fuel ratio becomes 9.5 parts of nitrous to 1 part of fuel (9.5:1). That means when oxygen-rich nitrous is introduced additional fuel must also be supplied in order to maintain the optimum ratioWithout the additional fuel the mixture would become dangerously lean - circumstances that will almost always lead to severe and expensive damage.
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94 Cobra 351w .040 over DSS Forged Pistons Scat Rods TFTW Heads 2.205 Intake 1.62 Exhaust Trick Flow R Intake 750Cc RC Injectors Aeromotive A1000 pump and Reg Boost Brothers Turbo Kit
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#5 |
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Bringing Yellow Back
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buy my wet kit for 300
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![]() SOON TO BE 5.4 3V POWERD WITH A ROUSH CHARGER HELPING IT ![]() BAMA Performance Drag Team Member #4 |
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#6 |
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Regular
1989 LX
9.14
Join Date: May 2011
Location: IN
Posts: 98
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Dry and EFI is the way to go... I have a dry kit for super cheap!
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My Ferd is a turd. 89 notchback 79 notchback <- new addition
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