[Rutcutter]

I just put a fresh set of spark plugs in my car cause it was missing and its still missing. The rotor and cap even the plug wire's look good.

I checked last night for arching and didnt see any. What should I check next?

[fogged306]

I would check for spark at each plug. If you have good spark then I would move on to injectors. You can use a screwdriver to listen for the injector firing. put the blade on the injector and the butt on your ear. Listen for a clicking noise. Could be a number of problems. But thats where I would start.

[SALIV8]

id check fuel press. is it a constant miss? just at idle, or under load? more specifics, also test the ignition system with at least a test light

[fogged306]

Originally Posted by SALIV8 id check fuel press. is it a constant miss? just at idle, or under load? more specifics, also test the ignition system with at least a test light

Are you talking a 12v test light? That will work but it will only tell you if the injector is getting the pulses from the computer that it needs. It will not, however, tell you the injector itself is faulty.

[Rutcutter]

Doesnt seem to be missing @ full throttle just @ idle and up too 1700 rpm or so,when I pulled the old plugs they are awful lean looking.

Fogged306 how do I need to check the spark?

[fogged306]

Theres two ways I usually do it. one is to take the wire off the plug, put a screwdriver in the wire(make sure it is making contact with the metal inside the plug). Then hold the screwdriver about an 1/8" away from the block or some other good ground source and crank the motor over for a second. You will see an arc jump between the screwdriver and the ground if there is power there. Make sure you insulate yourself from the metal part of the screwdriver or you will get a good jolt.

The other is to pull the plug itself and ground the outer casing around the the plug where it screws in and crank and look for spark in the plug.

You can also buy a spark plug wire tester that you plug into the plug wire, ground the tip and crank and it lights up when there is supposed to be a spark.

There may be other ways or better ways but im a backyard mechanic and thats all I've ever done.

[fogged306]

Were all the plugs lean when you pulled them? If thats the case you are having other issues than spark, I would check the fuel press. like saliv8 said.

[Rutcutter]

Yea most of them was lean,there was 2 of them that had a good tan tent though,both on the drivers side.

[Rutcutter]

Ok on further closer inspection I think it needs a cap and rotor,gonna try that and see if it clears up. I had looked at it wuickly one day and thought it looked ok but this morning I looked again and I think it needs it. Hope it cures it as I want to take it to the track next week.

[SALIV8]

Originally Posted by fogged306 Originally Posted by SALIV8 id check fuel press. is it a constant miss? just at idle, or under load? more specifics, also test the ignition system with at least a test light Are you talking a 12v test light? That will work but it will only tell you if the injector is getting the pulses from the computer that it needs. It will not, however, tell you the injector itself is faulty.

The test light is for the ignitionsystem not injectors injectors use a noid light.

[Rutcutter]

Well the cap and rotor didnt fix it... I gotta learn more about these check engine light codes... I may need a MIL kit since I took the cats off,someone told me its killing my performance with the CEL light on,pulls timeing and fuel too...

[Rutcutter]

Went out and pulled code's again here is what im getting:

Key on engine off: 31

Key on engine running: 12,94,44,31

[neverfastenough1]

Your cats don't affect the o2 sensor. They are before the cats. You need them for your ecm to control the air/fuel mix. Code 31 is evap low voltage, probably need an evap canister. Codes 44 and 94 are secondary air injection system inop r/s and l/s. Smog pump crap needs to go. Code 12 is probably caused by the 44 and 94. Your evap canister filters the vented gases from the fuel tank. Good thing to have , but not necessary unless you park in a garage and don't like the smell of gas. Just remember to run a vent line out of the engine bay to keep the fumes from entering the vents into the vehicle cockpit. Maybe someone else has had to fix these before or gotten rid of them and can tell you what to do.

[Rutcutter]

Thanks for the help,the funny thing is I already took all the smog pump and stuff off and plugged the lines and all... That confuses me.


Where would the evap canister be located? My fuel guage is still on the blink would this have something to do with it,im going to pull the tank down this week and take a look at the sending unit.

Man thanks again for the help.

[neverfastenough1]

I doubt the gage has anything to do with it, but who knows. I cannot tell a lie, I have never looked at a fox engine bay, but if I had to take a guess as to where the canister was, I would say it is in the right front of the engine bay. Should be some lines going to the throttle body from it. Good luck.

[Rutcutter]

I found alittle canister up on the right front of the engine bay spliced into a rubber line going to some tank looking thing. Do I need to go to autozone and get a new one or can I bypass it without throwing a code?

Im headed to my speedshop to get some MIL eliminators,hope to go to the track thursday to see what this little pony will do before we throw some juice on it...

[Rutcutter]

Well got to the speedshop and the guy told me that the 89 cars doesnt have a sensor down the exhaust line and it doesnt need the mil eliminator and he doesnt know why it throwing the codes... Man im confused as ever now... HELP

Codes engine running- 21,94,44,31

engine off- 31

[Rutcutter]

* Help*

[ryans88gt]

What? Take it somewhere else.

[ryans88gt]

If you are sure you have good spark at every cylinder, then you need to start looking at your fuel system. Also you could check your base timing. Should be 10-15 deg advance with the wire jumper thingy pulled out