[ryanw]

Im looking to clean things up in the engine bay a little.

What im looking to do is add an under the hood fuse box next to starter solinoid.

I have a lot of wires that the factory used as a junction point on the starter solinoid, using fuse links to protect the circuits. they look ugly as hell, so id like to cut the fuse links off and run them into a small protected fuse box leaving room to grow, so i can add electric fan ect.... and i want to upgrade to a 3g alternator later on, not sure if that needs to be in its own fues box or not, the reason i say that is because of the big fuse ill need to protect the electrical system.

Do any of you have a link to a nice under the hood fuse box, thats still smalll but accomidate all the shit conected to the starter solinoid plus leave me room to grow, at a good price, im not looking to spend to much. It doesnt have to be new, if you know of another car that i can get one off of that would work and not be over loaded

for example i was cruzing through ebay just looking for ideas

FORD MUSTANG 99 FUSE BOX | eBay

[ryanw]

[ryanw]

Also i see on some of the wires where two small wires run into a 40 amp fuse link and then the gage of the wire gets bigger right before it conects to the starter solinoid.

whould it be a good idea to seperate the two wires and put them on there own 20 amp fuse, or should they be left together the problem with leaving them together is standard fuses are 5-35 amps and ill be working with a standard junk yard fuse box.

im still waiting for ideas or links to fuse boxes that will work. what do you think about the fuse box i posted a link to, if you know of some thing better that will fit in that small area, let me know

[fogged306]

Hmm.. Honestly, what I did is totally different than what you're trying to do. I left the fusible links on the wires and just hid them and ran them to a fuse box with just 2 main fuses on it. One for the alternator and one for the rest of the vehicles power except the starter wire. All I used was an ANL fuse holder meant for stereo equipment.

That fuse box you listed looks like it would work just fine for what you're trying to do. If you want to clean things up even more, get a starter from a SN-95 car or a late fox (forget what year they changed it) with a mini-starter that has the solenoid on the starter itself. That way you can eliminate the starter solenoid completely on the fender and replace it with that fusebox.

Here's a pic of how I did it in case you want to get involved with it. Doing it like that requires cutting and splicing quite a few wires and pulling the fender off though.

[fogged306]

Also, you can get standard ATC fuses in 40 amp. They're brown if I remember right. Having individual protection is better if they're two separate circuits, but chances are it's not a problem leaving it on one 40A protection if it's gone this long like that with no issues. If you get the box in the link you posted, those are maxi fuses. They look like a standard fuse, just bigger. They're also a couple bucks a piece depending on where you buy them as opposed to a few cents a piece for ATC's.

[ryanw]

thanks fogged

[fogged306]

No prob. Def post up what you buy and how you go about doing it. Tmoss's site "veryuseful" was a lifesaver when I re-wired mine. The EEC pin-outs are spot on and every wire color was correct.

[ryanw]

Originally Posted by fogged306 No prob. Def post up what you buy and how you go about doing it. Tmoss's site "veryuseful" was a lifesaver when I re-wired mine. The EEC pin-outs are spot on and every wire color was correct.

hey im also thinking of doing a 3g upgrade, my question is. when i run the new 4 gage wire from the 3g to the starter solinoid do i still leave the original black wire with orange stripe conected to the solinoid, cuz when i was looking at the wireing diagram it looks like that wire also conects to the voltage regulator . or do i just abandon that wire all together

[fogged306]

It's not going to hurt anything if you leave them there, but you can remove those if you want less clutter. You have an internal regulator right? Either way, the 3G alt will be internal, so you'll only need that 4 gauge coming from the output, going to the battery.

[VM0824]

i dig the look fogged. very neat and clean! i should do the same cuz my battery area is littered with various different tap ins and splices from various power additions

[ryanw]

I just bought a fuse box off of EBAY for 30 bucks free shipping from a 99 mustang. not the same one in the link though but it looks the same. i know i could have gotton one cheaper by going and pulling one my self at the junk yard but with the family i didnt have time. ill up date as time goes on

[VM0824]

plz post pic when your done. i could REALLY use a clean look inside. ive been looking at distribution boxes like this one to really clean my mess up
Stinger

[ryanw]

will do...im going to take my time, i dont want to mess up the electrical.

when i first get the fuse box i need to go through the harness sticking out of it a see what wires do what, and if the gage of wire sticking out of it is not correst for what i need, then i guess ill be re-wireing it. im praying that the junk yard i bought it from doesnt hack the harness all to hell...lol

this is the one i got which is just like the one in the link i posted at the top of the thread. you can only see the fuse box in one of the pics

http://www.ebay.com/itm/260896568163...84.m1497.l2649

[ryanw]

Im looking through all the wires conected to the starter solenoid, and some of the color codes are not matching up

all right lets start

coming off solenoid big fat yellow wire splits off into 4 small wires and one of them is a small brown wire,and the other 3 are black, each of which is on its own fuse link. after the fuse link i have
black wire with yellow stripe
black wire with orange stripe
and a yellow wire
and then i have a PINK wire with a BLACK stripe ( which is conected to that brown wire with the fuse link that i already mentioned)

on the diagram thats posted, it shows that little brown wire is sapost to be conected to the yellow wire. and the diagram doesnt even show a pink wire with a black stripe
^^^^WHATS UP WITH THAT, WAS THERE AN ALTERNATIVE WIRING COLOR CODE
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/te...nks-ign-ac.gif
the only wire in that bundol that i dont have that is shown in the wiring diagram is the orange wire with light blue stripe.

Okay next

on the top of the solenoid there a circuit break, and it has a single wire conected, its black with a white stripe, what the hell is that for...its not in the diagram

NEXT

in the diagram it shows a big fat blue wire conected to the solenoid....I dont have that, mine seems to be a peach color, then it turns into a fat black wire after the fuse link, now i guess its possible that the dark blue fuse link may have been replaced at some point in the cars history, which would exsplain why its a peach color now but in the diagram it shows that it turns into a black wire with a orange stripe

and last we have the big fat green wire at the solenoid, and after the fues link in turns into a Black wire with orange stripe, and then a second wire which is brown.

i think the black wire with orange stripe is the alternator and the little brown wire is the voltage regulator....Is this correct ?





Also like mentioned above in my first post, i would like to seperate each wire and put them on there own fuse. what size fuse do they need ? for example if the wire is on a 16 gauge fuse link, what size fuse does that translate into ? same with 18 gauge ,20 gauge fues link ?????? cuz i want to get rid of the fuse links all togeather...

I hope all that makes sense

[fogged306]

Def can't help you on the wires coming out of the solenoid not matching up. I just ran them all to my fuse block because if they're coming off the solenoid, then they're constant 12v leads. Never bothered tracing them because I had no need. You really don't either to be honest, they all just need a 12v feed straight from the battery.

The fusible links aren't rated in amps as far as I know. I just used the max current capacity for a given wire (ballpark continuous max assuming the wire will be heat soaked from the engine) 14ga I used a 20A, 12ga I used 25A, 10ga I used a 30A. Not saying those numbers are right because I did no real math to come up with those numbers, just using what I've seen work through the years, but I haven't had any issues.

Black with orange is possibly alternator, or it could be 12v to the EEC, they used the same color for both. I have a 3G I wired in myself so I don't know how a stock one is wired anymore.

[ryanw]

i need to know what each wire powers up so i can correctly lable the fuse box

[ryanw]

Originally Posted by fogged306 Def can't help you on the wires coming out of the solenoid not matching up. I just ran them all to my fuse block because if they're coming off the solenoid, then they're constant 12v leads. Never bothered tracing them because I had no need. You really don't either to be honest, they all just need a 12v feed straight from the battery. The fusible links aren't rated in amps as far as I know. I just used the max current capacity for a given wire (ballpark continuous max assuming the wire will be heat soaked from the engine) 14ga I used a 20A, 12ga I used 25A, 10ga I used a 30A. Not saying those numbers are right because I did no real math to come up with those numbers, just using what I've seen work through the years, but I haven't had any issues. Black with orange is possibly alternator, or it could be 12v to the EEC, they used the same color for both. I have a 3G I wired in myself so I don't know how a stock one is wired anymore.

so do you have a clue on the black wire with the white stripe thats conected to the circuit breaker....it looks like this
93 mustang starter relay/solenoid wiring | Mustang Forums at StangNet its the 5th post down

[fogged306]

Nope, lol. I actually just made a little bracket and mounted that thing up on the inside of my firewall and ran a wire up to the block. I had my dash all out at the time too so it was easy for me to do like that. But that was the same thing for me, it just needs 12v constant so that's what it got... Glad I could be so helpful and give you pretty much no answers to your questions, lol.

[ryanw]

Originally Posted by fogged306 Nope, lol. I actually just made a little bracket and mounted that thing up on the inside of my firewall and ran a wire up to the block. I had my dash all out at the time too so it was easy for me to do like that. But that was the same thing for me, it just needs 12v constant so that's what it got... Glad I could be so helpful and give you pretty much no answers to your questions, lol.

lmao

[tmoss]

There are variations in color between years, so it's more important to establish the devices served. That circuit breaker powers the door locks and lumbar seats. I'd post up another diagram but I heven't been able to do that successfully here for a long time.