TFS indentification or part number location
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Old December 29th, 2011, 08:49 AM   #1
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TFS indentification or part number location


I am tired of making countless threads like are 205s to big are 185s to big, and im sure you guys are tired of seeing these type of threads where is the location of part number on trick flow heads they do not have thermactor plugs so they are not 170s any help is GREATLY appreciated i just want to know what i have. thanks
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Old December 29th, 2011, 09:42 AM   #2
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Try between 2nd and 3rd exhaust port.
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Old December 29th, 2011, 10:22 AM   #3
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Why would you doubt that they are 185s like the guy told you they were?
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Old December 29th, 2011, 11:04 AM   #4
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The Track Heat's are sold as 170's without thermactor ports. Only way to tell for sure is to have someone cc the intake runner size!
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Old December 29th, 2011, 12:23 PM   #5
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he said track heat and first thing that i saw on summit was 185 so thats what i went with but just about every head comes up trackheat on summits website
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Old December 29th, 2011, 12:41 PM   #6
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Yeah, they could be anything. Track heats just have a different spring package. It'd be cheap to have a shop CC them.
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Old December 29th, 2011, 01:36 PM   #7
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ok i will look into that
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Old December 29th, 2011, 03:59 PM   #8
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That sucks the the part number doesn't say what head it is. On my afr heads it has a location where it reads 185. I can't see it now that the intakes on though. When I bought all my stuff I googel where identification marks were on every thing so that when I went to see it , I would be able to get ripped off. In your case the only thing you should be worried about is if your heads turn out to be 170 in stead of the 185. Cuz I doubt some one would sell you 205 heads at a 185 price
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Old December 29th, 2011, 04:10 PM   #9
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I talked to Gregg and he straightened it all out i have 170cc trackheats which im pretty glad actually as many of you know im only 14 and am trying to build a mild combo and i payed 745 for heads hitech comp cams rrs those are 440 alone and pushrods, then 250 for machine shop bill so all in all i should have a pretty nice combo. does anyone know whats the difference between track heat and the regular ones i forgot to ask Gregg.
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Old December 29th, 2011, 04:16 PM   #10
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That's an awesome price. I'm glad to see that some people take advice on this forum ... And you didn't go and spend 500-600 refurbishing some gt40 heads lol... The price you got those at is what we have been telling people to look out for.



I think 69fastback said that the track heat is just a spring package.
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Old December 29th, 2011, 04:20 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by tyler97 View Post
I talked to Gregg and he straightened it all out i have 170cc trackheats which im pretty glad actually as many of you know im only 14 and am trying to build a mild combo and i payed 745 for heads hitech comp cams rrs those are 440 alone and pushrods, then 250 for machine shop bill so all in all i should have a pretty nice combo. does anyone know whats the difference between track heat and the regular ones i forgot to ask Gregg.
Besides the springs, the Track Heat's don't have a heat crossover or AIR injection ports!

Also, be sure to check PTV clearance when you assemble!
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Old December 29th, 2011, 07:55 PM   #12
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Ryanw i was listenin to what u said and looked on the corral frequently and i just sold my shifter cart the day before. Horsepower junkie are the springs better or just the dual and will deffanatly check ptv
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Old December 29th, 2011, 08:14 PM   #13
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you should get springs that match the cam...every cam has a part # for the springs that should be used with it
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flowmaster super 10 mufflers,
255 fuel pump,
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Old December 29th, 2011, 08:21 PM   #14
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Until im used to driving the car im probally going to keep the stock cam then ill get a custom cam any reasons why i shouldnt do this
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Old December 29th, 2011, 08:42 PM   #15
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im not a cam guy so i cant give any advice on the matter. as far as a custom cam, i dont think one is needed in every case, if all you have is an intake and heads, an off the shelf cam may be just right for you, i all depends on what you end goal is. but a cam is the vary last thing you buy, it ties every thing else together
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flowmaster super 10 mufflers,
255 fuel pump,
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Old December 29th, 2011, 08:54 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by tyler97 View Post
Until im used to driving the car im probally going to keep the stock cam then ill get a custom cam any reasons why i shouldnt do this
Custom cams can be big bucks and the same as an ots cam. What year is the rotating assembly? I heard Ford did a run of forged pistons in the early 90's.

Unless you get into larger bores and longer strokes with professional head work and tweaking to the intake, a custom cam isn't usually needed.

Look into what your combo is, what it needs to do what you want, then look into what's available ots.

Another problem is getting a custom cam thats actually not as good as an ots cam because either too much or not enough attention was given to one aspect instead of all aspects(like a custom grind that took advantage of a long stroke on the exhaust stroke but not the intake stroke giving good draw to the exhaust system but not taking full advantage of the intake stroke[kind of counter productive since exhaust is what's left of the intake]).
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Old December 29th, 2011, 08:57 PM   #17
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i know 85-92 had forged pistons ( not sure if im leaving out a year or two)and in 93 they went to cast
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Trick Flow R intake,
Accufab 70mm tb, 75mm pro m Maf, 30lb injectors,
jba headers, 2 1/2" x pipe
flowmaster super 10 mufflers,
255 fuel pump,
3:27 gears
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Old December 29th, 2011, 09:24 PM   #18
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91 motor but i should have no problem running the stock cam right
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Old December 29th, 2011, 09:28 PM   #19
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not that i know of
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DART 331ci stroker, AFR 185 heads,
Trick Flow R intake,
Accufab 70mm tb, 75mm pro m Maf, 30lb injectors,
jba headers, 2 1/2" x pipe
flowmaster super 10 mufflers,
255 fuel pump,
3:27 gears
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Old December 31st, 2011, 01:11 AM   #20
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Stock cam would be fine, but I wouldn't. That's just leaving power on the table and swapping the cam now is one less headache. I would at least use a TF Stage 1 or comparable cam with that setup. Custom cam is for getting the best driveability untuned and for getting every last hp out of your setup. If you choose a cam grinder who knows what they are doing, then there is NO off the shelf cam that will run better. And as far as the springs, just have a machine shop check open and closed pressures. That's what matters when you are getting the right springs for a specific cam.
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