[VM0824]

Originally Posted by termi_GT How are you tuning it yourself?

i have a quarterhorse chip. that and my laptop.

[VM0824]

Originally Posted by fogged306 Yea the boost literally is enough to stretch the head bolts and lift the head from the deck. Studs have more clamping force than a bolt and ARP makes very good studs. I won't run another motor ever again without good head and main studs. You get what you pay for with bolts and studs.

am i gonna have to take the engine out to put the heads on the studs? idk how much room i need to put the heads on the studs.

[termi_GT]

No, you can install the studs with the motor in the car.


Do you have a wideband? If you are tuning the car without a wideband or some sort of datalogger then you are tuning it blind.

[VM0824]

Originally Posted by termi_GT No, you can install the studs with the motor in the car. Do you have a wideband? If you are tuning the car without a wideband or some sort of datalogger then you are tuning it blind.

i have an AEM digital wideband, and i can datalog that through the computer along with 1000 other variables. ive got a pretty decent setup. can datalog, tune, and adjust in real time. i can even switch between tunes on the fly with a tune knob i installed

[VM0824]

im still unsure which gasket to get. which bore do i need? i was looking for 4" but apparently the smallest is 4.08. does it matter?

[VM0824]

i was looking at this one
Fel-Pro Permatorque Marine

i know it says marine use but whats the difference?

[termi_GT]

The 4.08 is what you want. I do not know what is diffirent with marine ones. I used the normal 302/351 ones. There is a couple install tips you will need to know if go this route.

[VM0824]

feel free to drop some tips. cuz im past the point of no return. decided on a rebuild. one piston was ovalish and they all had some pretty shitty ring gaps. soooo the next time shes running shes gonna be a 306. suggestions for parts/brands? things i need: clutch, flywheel, pistons, rings, bearings (cam, main, rod). already picked out arp studs. also in need of low security banks to rob.

got the motor out today and stripped it down

[VM0824]

oo and motor mounts, maybe solid.

[ryanw]

Wow, your not playing around

[VM0824]

Originally Posted by ryanw Wow, your not playing around

the car is older than i am. it has more than 150k miles. then i sludged it bad with oil/coolant (althought bearings were in surprisingly good shape!). i had a guy come and he said the cylinder walls were too far worn and the blowby would just keep causing problems. especially with boost. so im gonna have a shop bore and hone it. anyone in jersey heard of IDM? a friend recommended them.

[fogged306]

Who ever you take the engine to, double check their work. If you don't have a bore gauge, ask them to check the tops and bottoms of each cylinder with one right in front of you after they're done. While you're in there, I would get main studs and have it line bored with the studs on there as well. Better chance of block survival with studs on there, but the clamping force being stronger than a bolt, when you put them on, they'll actually bring the main bore out of round a little and they need to be line bored. Line honing isn't a good idea unless they have a machine that does all the mains at once. From what I've read, line honing only does 2-3 mains at a time so they have to go in one side of the block at a time. Line boring gets all of them at once so the bores stay true.

[termi_GT]

I wouldn't do solids for a street car. Just get a good set of poly motor mounts.

[fogged306]

I got solids on mine. No excess vibrations, drives fine on the street.