picked up an electric fan, i have 2 question
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Old January 9th, 2012, 09:53 PM   #1
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picked up an electric fan, i have 2 question


I picked up a flex-a-light 185 electric fan off ebay, dirt cheap, i just mounted it, that shit was super easy. One thing i like about this fan, is it comes with a bracket to remount the stock over flow...... i still need to run the wiring. Ill do that next weekend.

Now for the two questions.
#1 it came with a probe thermostat, im not to sure about those.....does any one know how accurate those things are ?

if it sucks then ill get the screw in type.

#2 i still have the stock alternator, i plan on upgrading to a 3g but not right away.
This fan draws 18 amps, do you think ill be fine running the stock alternator for now ?

Thanks
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Old January 9th, 2012, 10:04 PM   #2
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I used the push in thermostat probe on my fan controller and it works fine for me. Just have to make sure you push it all the way through the rad and not just partway in.

I would keep an eye on your voltage with that stock alt. Personally, I wouldn't trust it. Especially if you aren't running a fan controller with soft start. I would turn everything on like A/C or heat and lights, and then manually kick the fan on while you have a multi-meter on your battery and see what the voltage does while the car is idling.
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Old January 9th, 2012, 10:10 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by fogged306 View Post
I used the push in thermostat probe on my fan controller and it works fine for me. Just have to make sure you push it all the way through the rad and not just partway in.

I would keep an eye on your voltage with that stock alt. Personally, I wouldn't trust it. Especially if you aren't running a fan controller with soft start. I would turn everything on like A/C or heat and lights, and then manually kick the fan on while you have a multi-meter on your battery and see what the voltage does while the car is idling.
Okay....so when you say to push the probe in all the way, do you mean where the tip of the probe is still imbedded in the radiator or should i push it all the way in where the tip starts to come out the other end of the radiator ?
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255 fuel pump,
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Old January 9th, 2012, 10:13 PM   #4
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When I had mine, I put the probe IN the upper radiator hose. If you use that method, you may need to use one more hose clamp in addition to the one on there to keep it from leaking. I didn't have any alternator issues when I had mine.
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Old January 9th, 2012, 10:15 PM   #5
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All the way through, but there is supposed to be a little rubber cap to cover the tip after you push it through. But any vac cap should work. I have it just pushed through on my Tahoe, cuz it was leaking when I put it in the upper hose and I didn't have another clamp at my house and I'm 15 minutes from the closest 'full sized' town, lol. So I just took it out and shoved it through and forgot about redoing it.
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Old January 9th, 2012, 10:26 PM   #6
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^ Yep.. It will bend the fins on the rad when you push it through, but it won't hurt anything.
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Old January 9th, 2012, 10:27 PM   #7
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Ha ha okay, ill be right back, i need to go get that rubber piece out of the trash, i didnt know what that thing was for.
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flowmaster super 10 mufflers,
255 fuel pump,
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Old January 9th, 2012, 10:29 PM   #8
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lol
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Old January 9th, 2012, 10:36 PM   #9
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Lmao!
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Old January 9th, 2012, 10:51 PM   #10
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Got it, and its in
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jba headers, 2 1/2" x pipe
flowmaster super 10 mufflers,
255 fuel pump,
3:27 gears
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Old January 9th, 2012, 11:00 PM   #11
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So plan for next weekend, is to pick up some wire with a fuse holder..... what size fuse should i get a 20 amp or a 25 amp since the fan draws 18 ?,

Then ill run a wire to the positive on the a/c compressor, so that it comes on with the a/c, ill also run a back up switch in the interior.

Now for the swiched 12volt, i was thinking about pulling off the wind shield wiper, (its a red wire) but it looks like the wind shield wipper is on a 7.5 amp fuse, do you think this would be okay ?, if you know of a better switch 12 volt source, let me know
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Trick Flow R intake,
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jba headers, 2 1/2" x pipe
flowmaster super 10 mufflers,
255 fuel pump,
3:27 gears
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Old January 9th, 2012, 11:05 PM   #12
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25 amp since that allows for the 125% brief startup current draw. The coil draws next to nothing so you can use the windshield wiper fuse for your ACC power.
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Old January 9th, 2012, 11:12 PM   #13
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The 12v trigger doesn't draw anything at all. You can use something with a low fuse rating if you want. I just went straight to the ign switch for mine.

I put a 30A on 12v power lead before I bought the controller to cover the start spike. I couldn't find anywhere that listed any info on it but I know these will draw more than 18A at start-up if it starts at full power. Anything that shorts is going to pop a 30A just as easy as a 20 or 25A anyway.

Edit: Wow, got tree'd... I was not aware that I typed so slowly.. I blame my ADD..
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Old January 9th, 2012, 11:23 PM   #14
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In the interior fuse box theres two empty fuses, i think its fuse #7 and # 17 if im remembering right. Are there wires hooked up to those spares, and if so are they a switched 12 volt ?

I was trying to avoid running more wires then a had to into the interior just to make the install easier, but i will, if i have to.
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flowmaster super 10 mufflers,
255 fuel pump,
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Old January 9th, 2012, 11:33 PM   #15
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That windshield wiper wire should be fine.
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Old January 9th, 2012, 11:37 PM   #16
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Alrighty then, thanks guys
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255 fuel pump,
3:27 gears
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Old January 10th, 2012, 07:02 AM   #17
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i put an electric fan off of a linclon? i think and ran it for a year or two on the stock alternator. The lights would dim some at idle but it never really caused me any problem. I just got a 130 a. alternator and installed it this past weekend but haven't had a chance to really drive it much since then.
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Old January 10th, 2012, 08:41 AM   #18
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i have had no problems with the rad. probe. i have seen two differant types. one type like i have goes in the rad. fins. the other goes in the upper hose. the ones i seen to go in the upper hose have a good lenght of bendable soft metal after the probe. the one i have is the probe than two wires. i doint think it would live long in the water stream.
now, my fan is wired to a full time powersource. after i park the car it might kick on for a minute than shut off, and then five minutes later kick on for another minute. thats pretty much the way factory fans are wired. i have a battery that can handle this though!
CROWBAR73,
i have a mark viii fan also, i'm wondering what you use for your fan controller? not threadjacking RYANW, this info might be usefull to you also. the damn lincoln fan will almost pull the car forward in nutral. lol! it's pretty common knowladge that the lincoln fan draws about a 100 amps on startup for a milla second and somewhare at or above 40 amps constant. to wire mine i got a hyden controller like this :
Amazon.com: Hayden Automotive 3647 Adjustable Thermostatic Fan Control: Automotive Amazon.com: Hayden Automotive 3647 Adjustable Thermostatic Fan Control: Automotive
and i got a 100 amp constant duty selonoid of ebay for 15 bucks.it looks like a ford selonoid but beefy. i run the load of the fan through the selonoid and trigger it with the controller. i've ran it like that for a year with no problems, and if it does go out nappa sells the selonoids, and most chain parts stors sell the hayden controler.
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Old January 10th, 2012, 09:15 AM   #19
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I'm pretty sure this is the controller i used

Compressor Works/Electric Fan Thermostat (733652) | AutoZone.com

I also connected mine to a full time power source (not switched). Never caused me any problems. The fan is a 2 speed fan and to be honest, i don't remember if i hooked up the high or low speed. I know it has worked great and never had any issues
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Old January 10th, 2012, 11:00 AM   #20
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Mine came with a controller box, its all set up to hook to the a/c, back up switch, thermostat probe....ya this little box has it all. If and when it fails, i may just switch over to a regular relay and wiring kit, but as of now' im running what it came with.

The only thing that was missing was the wires for every thing and a fuse holder, which is no big deal. I figure for less then 20 bucks, ill be finished with it, other then a alternator upgrade.

Speaking of which..... i was looking around on ebay last night.....what do you all think of the 6g ? alternators, the add said there lighter, run cooler then the 3g, and price difference isnt that much more. But at the same time idint want to through away money
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Trick Flow R intake,
Accufab 70mm tb, 75mm pro m Maf, 30lb injectors,
jba headers, 2 1/2" x pipe
flowmaster super 10 mufflers,
255 fuel pump,
3:27 gears
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