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Old January 23rd, 2012, 12:02 PM   #61
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Follow the small black vent line as far back as you can then cut it. I made the mistake of ending it just under the passenger seat and I did smell fumes so I cut back further- smell gone.
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Old January 23rd, 2012, 01:54 PM   #62
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Good tip. I was just gonna snip it at the firewall. I like your idea better.

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Old January 23rd, 2012, 06:44 PM   #63
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just make sure the line doesn't collapse when you cut it..... I DOUBT it really need's to vent any air out, but im no engineer or some shit, It might need to breath a little.
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Old January 23rd, 2012, 07:16 PM   #64
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If I get the car running and quit posting, we'll know it needed to vent lmao

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Old January 25th, 2012, 04:12 PM   #65
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Got the headers off and started on the strut towers today... Got the passenger side cleaned up. Fuckin shit looks like shit.



Also discovered I'm not running a t-5 as I thought I was.

From what research I've done, it looks to be either a 3550 or TKO. Either way at least I know I don't have to worry about shelling a t-5. Either one should handle all I'm gonna give it.

Got my tfs2 in the mail today and gasket set and march alternator and power steering brackets came in yesterday. Almost ready to get it back together. Any midwest guys reading this know where a good tuner is in the area? I figure I'll have to drive to at least STL or KCMO.
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Old February 14th, 2012, 09:32 PM   #66
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Strut towers done. Cleaned em up and welded some patches on. Put some epoxy primer on front and back of both strut towers, followed a good coat of roll on bed liner to seal it off real good.




Got the cam in and heads back on. Got the timing set on after we took this pic. Having some issues with pushrod length though.



Put the timing set on it and started putting in pushrods and rockers. I was going to rob the pushrods from the engine the heads came from but I'm having some issues. Torqued the rockers to 20lbs and some have no lash in them but there's about 5 or 6 that have a ton of slop in them. Bad enough I can lift the rocker arm up off of the valve stem. One other observation is the lifters aren't preloaded at all. So I'm thinking I need new pushrods.

I have a TFS adjustable pushrod length checker and have some issues. I've never did this before so I'm kind of going off of what we've been reading from different tech articles and threads. I put the checker in and torque the rocker down. I adjust the checker until there's no lash. I can take it out of there and move it to another valve and it's either too tight or too loose. How in the hell am I coming up with a different length for each valve? I am making sure not to move the adjustment as I take it out too. I spent 2 hours messing with this and got absolutely nowhere. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

One other thing... Why won't the pushrods from the old engine work for this one? Were they probably the wrong length in the old engine to begin with?
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Old February 14th, 2012, 10:08 PM   #67
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Do you have pedestal mounted rockers or studs mounted ? it sounds like pedestal if your torquing them
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Old February 14th, 2012, 10:15 PM   #68
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Yeah pedestal. Guess I shoulda specified.

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Old February 14th, 2012, 11:10 PM   #69
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Originally Posted by LSX Freak View Post
Yeah pedestal. Guess I shoulda specified.

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I should have just looked at your picture better, i would have seen the stock rockers...lol

My bad
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Old February 14th, 2012, 11:13 PM   #70
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Are you rotating the engine so the lifter you're checking length at, is on the base circle of the cam each time?
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Old February 15th, 2012, 12:43 AM   #71
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Originally Posted by fogged306 View Post
Are you rotating the engine so the lifter you're checking length at, is on the base circle of the cam each time?
The ones that had the most slop in them were on the base circle. I'm going to just start fresh tomorrow and see what I get.

I ran by the shop and looked, they're just stock length pushrods so no wonder they're seeming to be short. Called a Ford guru from work and he suggested to check length on all the intake valves and then all of the exhaust valves making sure they're all on their base circle before I measure. Intake or exhaust shouldn't affect length should it?

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Old February 15th, 2012, 12:43 AM   #72
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Originally Posted by ryanw View Post
I should have just looked at your picture better, i would have seen the stock rockers...lol

My bad
Lol no biggy!

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Old February 15th, 2012, 07:19 AM   #73
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Originally Posted by LSX Freak View Post
Got the headers off and started on the strut towers today... Got the passenger side cleaned up. Fuckin shit looks like shit.



Also discovered I'm not running a t-5 as I thought I was.

From what research I've done, it looks to be either a 3550 or TKO. Either way at least I know I don't have to worry about shelling a t-5. Either one should handle all I'm gonna give it.

Got my tfs2 in the mail today and gasket set and march alternator and power steering brackets came in yesterday. Almost ready to get it back together. Any midwest guys reading this know where a good tuner is in the area? I figure I'll have to drive to at least STL or KCMO.
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Old February 15th, 2012, 08:27 AM   #74
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They've had some pretty nice cars through there it looks like.

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Old February 15th, 2012, 08:44 AM   #75
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only dealings with them that i have is i had them order in my tfs stage 1 cam so my wife wouldnt know i got it.lol! they told me to tune and burn a chip would be around $550. fur dyno pulls he said up to 3 pulls for $65. i think theres a few shops in o'fallon/st. charles area also that tune. not sure where moberly is.
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Old February 15th, 2012, 09:20 AM   #76
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Originally Posted by cleangtvert View Post
only dealings with them that i have is i had them order in my tfs stage 1 cam so my wife wouldnt know i got it.lol! they told me to tune and burn a chip would be around $550. fur dyno pulls he said up to 3 pulls for $65. i think theres a few shops in o'fallon/st. charles area also that tune. not sure where moberly is.
Those don't seem like bad prices. I'm only about 30 minutes north of Columbia.

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Old February 15th, 2012, 09:31 AM   #77
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there's anouther large performance shop right on the I-70 service rd in st. charles. i'm not spelling this right but, it's bear brothers or something like that. i know they do alot of mustangs.
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Old February 15th, 2012, 09:39 AM   #78
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There's definitely more places than what I thought for our area then. Who do you use?

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Old February 21st, 2012, 11:04 PM   #79
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Been meaning to update but haven't had a chance. Got the pushrods measured, and went with a 6.300 which worked out perfect. Got PTV checked also and came out with .140 on the intake and .200 on the exhaust. Better than I suspected it would have been. Got a chance to actually take some time and work on the car today. Got the march alternator kit on in a breeze. Was definitely a lot easier than what I thought it'd be. Made pretty good progress until I ran into a slight snag. I ordered a fel-pro full gasket set and everything has been just fine other than this. I called all 4 auto parts stores in town, and nobody had a damn thing. They all had to "special order" the plenum gasket and it'd be 2 to 3 days for $10 more than Summit wanted for the same damn thing. So here we sit waiting on parts once again.



I wish I woulda had more time to clean things up in the engine bay and clean parts as I put them back on, but Dad is ready to have the bay back in his shop and needs to do some sandblasting on a Camaro he's restoring. Guess I'll clean what I can once I get everything together.
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Old February 21st, 2012, 11:52 PM   #80
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Remove the paint and polish up the valve covers.

Like this

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