Started the winter project

69fastback · January 30th, 2012, 09:45 PM

I can see how you think the n41 would be a downgrade, but it would outperform that letter cam by a lot. There are a lot more to camshafts than those numbers you posted, and the Anderson cam has a more aggressive ramp rate, which tells the story. You're not going to want a much larger cam with those heads. Too big can hurt as bad as not big enough.

bl_rdrgz · January 30th, 2012, 09:49 PM

Well that's not to expensive. But it looks great! I really like the panels.

Fiacco819 · January 30th, 2012, 10:02 PM

I have a decent understanding that Duration is more important than lift, But have yet to figure out the ramp rates and all of that. Theres soo much to consider, and I dont think each cam lists ramp rate. Thats why I'm asking around, while also having someone from comp cams give me their thoughts. I know my heads aren't the best so its hard for me to base my setup to others who run higher RPM's and better heads.

And yeah, the panels are turning out much better than I originally thought

e3sean · January 30th, 2012, 11:48 PM

that is why there are very few good cam builders. it is a science and not everyone has the patience or understanding to do it right.

good luck keep up the good work.

Fiacco819 · February 4th, 2012, 11:33 PM

Well I tried out using body filler today. I'm glad I'm not a Body-man because I found out how much I truly dislike sanding haha. I'll get some primer on it tomorrow, I'm beat from sanding, re-applying, and sanding some more

69fastback · February 4th, 2012, 11:37 PM

Looking good.

e3sean · February 5th, 2012, 01:40 AM

i did 3 years of bodyshop in highschool i learned alot but the the biggest thing i learned is i do not ever want to do bodywork for a living. hats off to those who do and are good at it. i dont have the patience.

Fiacco819 · February 5th, 2012, 03:35 PM

Primered, Just have to hit it lightly with some 600 and then shoot basecoat fallowed by high temp clear. (I'm using rattle cans)

Fiacco819 · February 5th, 2012, 07:57 PM

Ran out of paint, but its 99% done.

ryanw · February 5th, 2012, 10:17 PM

It came out looking good

brandon444 · February 5th, 2012, 10:23 PM

damn that looks good...

gotta go work on mine now lol

BlackBetty88GT · February 5th, 2012, 10:30 PM

lookin good

MustangMatt96GT · February 6th, 2012, 11:31 AM

Originally Posted by FastStang91Lx

Chrome moly isn't flexible. If it were, you wouldn't see it on higher end stuff. If my cage was flexible I'd be pissed. Do your research. It is potentially more brittle, but is stronger than mild steel which is why you can use a thinner wall to do the same thing. Notice that Team Z makes a full chrome moly k member kit. Wonder why that is...........................................

The way he worded it sounded all messed up.... But chromoly actually is easier to stretch than mild steel. That is part of the reason of the Tig welding when welding chromoly. Chromoly stretches more than mild steel, and the correct filler rod helps create a stronger bond than what a mig wire could. This is also why chromoly cages need to belooked at in the joints for cracking moe periodically than mild steel, as in they stretch and contract much more than mild steel. Because chromoly is basically carbonized mild steel, both have the same properys but youngs modulus and modulus of elecasticiyy are different values.

But the brittle part isthe main thing. The phase diagram of carbonized Steel( chromoly) hits the phase shift at a much earlier temp than mild steel. So a mig welder that has no experience mig welding chromoly, overheats the metal to a place where the cubic structure is changing from One cubic to another. Then it cools down too quick for it to change back and weakens it and causes the brittleness.

Don't get me wrong, if you know how to mig weld moly properly there is nothing wrong with it except that it is no longer NHRA accepted and looks ugly. A lot of aerospace and aeronaughtics are mig welded chromoly and similar materials...

Looking good to the OP

MustangMatt96GT · February 6th, 2012, 11:33 AM

What is the color code on that paint?

Fiacco819 · February 6th, 2012, 07:41 PM

Color is OEM Metallic Reef Blue. I looked up the paint code for my 1993 Mustang and came up with this code: M6565A

MustangMatt96GT · February 6th, 2012, 08:32 PM

Thanks man! It almost looks like Deep Forest Green Like my car in some light.

Troy5.0 · February 7th, 2012, 09:28 PM

very nice man

Fiacco819 · February 9th, 2012, 06:51 AM

So after a lot of thinking and looking around, I've found which way I'm headed with the engine. Going to keep the short block the same, and add a AFM top-end kit. This gives me weight reduction and hopefully a few more horse's. Going to use my crane RR's, port and polish the typhoon intake and open it up for the 75mm TB, then sell off old/unused items. Should only be $600 more out of the pocket from refurbishing my old heads and getting a cam. Only wished I could go with a larger Anderson cam without cutting pistons

Fiacco819 · March 20th, 2012, 09:22 PM

So I've been idle for awhile, doing research, more research, and parts shopping. So here's what I've been up to:
Tore down the shortblock, cleaned everything, replaced rings, bearings, and seals. Ditched the old accessory brackets and upgraded alt & P/s brackets for a clean look. Ordered TW170 58cc trackheat heads & intake, with FTI custom camshaft w/matched springs, and a new Centerforce DF clutch. Cleaned and painted the booster, polished misc parts, and started the route wires. Forgot which wires were un-used, so I'll finish wiring once the engine is back in. (Heads should be in tomorrow)

69fastback · March 20th, 2012, 09:32 PM

Nice. That thing should run well.

January 30th, 2012, 09:45 PM	#41
69fastback Premium Member 1969 Mustang Mach 1 6.824@101.61 Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Oklahoma jackass, get to driving Posts: 5,565 iTrader: 0 reviews	I can see how you think the n41 would be a downgrade, but it would outperform that letter cam by a lot. There are a lot more to camshafts than those numbers you posted, and the Anderson cam has a more aggressive ramp rate, which tells the story. You're not going to want a much larger cam with those heads. Too big can hurt as bad as not big enough. __________________ ./___ _ ____ ___ \. ( ]]] _ _ O _ _ [[[ ) \_ o _ _____ _ o _/ \|___\| ......... \|___\| http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HyYU3...e_gdata_player

January 30th, 2012, 09:49 PM	#42
bl_rdrgz Regular 1991 Mustang GT 5.0 Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Tulsa,OK Posts: 172 iTrader: 0 reviews	Well that's not to expensive. But it looks great! I really like the panels. __________________ "Yea its fast....... when its running.." -anonymous

January 30th, 2012, 10:02 PM	#43
Fiacco819 Regular 1993 12.53@110.85 Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: New York Posts: 203 iTrader: 0 reviews	I have a decent understanding that Duration is more important than lift, But have yet to figure out the ramp rates and all of that. Theres soo much to consider, and I dont think each cam lists ramp rate. Thats why I'm asking around, while also having someone from comp cams give me their thoughts. I know my heads aren't the best so its hard for me to base my setup to others who run higher RPM's and better heads. And yeah, the panels are turning out much better than I originally thought __________________ Roc City Mustangs 12.53@110.85 N/A 1.87 60' Rochester, NY

January 30th, 2012, 11:48 PM	#44
e3sean I Post Entirely Way Too Much 1988 lx 9.68@142 Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: goldsboro NC Posts: 5,609 iTrader: 0 reviews	that is why there are very few good cam builders. it is a science and not everyone has the patience or understanding to do it right. good luck keep up the good work. __________________

February 4th, 2012, 11:33 PM	#45
Fiacco819 Regular 1993 12.53@110.85 Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: New York Posts: 203 iTrader: 0 reviews	Well I tried out using body filler today. I'm glad I'm not a Body-man because I found out how much I truly dislike sanding haha. I'll get some primer on it tomorrow, I'm beat from sanding, re-applying, and sanding some more __________________ Roc City Mustangs 12.53@110.85 N/A 1.87 60' Rochester, NY

February 4th, 2012, 11:37 PM	#46
69fastback Premium Member 1969 Mustang Mach 1 6.824@101.61 Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Oklahoma jackass, get to driving Posts: 5,565 iTrader: 0 reviews	Looking good. __________________ ./___ _ ____ ___ \. ( ]]] _ _ O _ _ [[[ ) \_ o _ _____ _ o _/ \|___\| ......... \|___\| http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HyYU3...e_gdata_player

February 5th, 2012, 01:40 AM	#47
e3sean I Post Entirely Way Too Much 1988 lx 9.68@142 Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: goldsboro NC Posts: 5,609 iTrader: 0 reviews	i did 3 years of bodyshop in highschool i learned alot but the the biggest thing i learned is i do not ever want to do bodywork for a living. hats off to those who do and are good at it. i dont have the patience. __________________

February 5th, 2012, 03:35 PM	#48
Fiacco819 Regular 1993 12.53@110.85 Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: New York Posts: 203 iTrader: 0 reviews	Primered, Just have to hit it lightly with some 600 and then shoot basecoat fallowed by high temp clear. (I'm using rattle cans) __________________ Roc City Mustangs 12.53@110.85 N/A 1.87 60' Rochester, NY

February 5th, 2012, 07:57 PM	#49
Fiacco819 Regular 1993 12.53@110.85 Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: New York Posts: 203 iTrader: 0 reviews	Ran out of paint, but its 99% done. __________________ Roc City Mustangs 12.53@110.85 N/A 1.87 60' Rochester, NY

February 5th, 2012, 10:17 PM	#50
ryanw I Post Entirely Way Too Much 1991 Ford Mustang GT Join Date: May 2007 Location: San Diego, California Posts: 6,063 iTrader: 0 reviews	It came out looking good __________________ DART 331ci stroker, AFR 185 heads, Trick Flow R intake, Accufab 70mm tb, 75mm pro m Maf, 30lb injectors, jba headers, 2 1/2" x pipe flowmaster super 10 mufflers, 255 fuel pump, 3:27 gears

February 5th, 2012, 10:23 PM	#51
brandon444 Regular 91 Mustang LX 5.0 Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Haubstadt, IN Posts: 469 iTrader: 0 reviews	damn that looks good... gotta go work on mine now lol

February 5th, 2012, 10:30 PM	#52
BlackBetty88GT She's my Unicorn! 88 GT 14.34@99.25 Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: wichita,ks Posts: 14 iTrader: 0 reviews	lookin good

February 6th, 2012, 11:33 AM	#54
MustangMatt96GT Proud American 1996 Mustang GT Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Lakewood, CO Posts: 10,689 iTrader: 3 reviews	What is the color code on that paint? __________________ RIP Travis Billings Special Thanks to: Andrews Racing Transmissions Baseline Suspensions 25.3 SFI Chassis Build Never Lift Racecars

February 6th, 2012, 07:41 PM	#55
Fiacco819 Regular 1993 12.53@110.85 Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: New York Posts: 203 iTrader: 0 reviews	Color is OEM Metallic Reef Blue. I looked up the paint code for my 1993 Mustang and came up with this code: M6565A __________________ Roc City Mustangs 12.53@110.85 N/A 1.87 60' Rochester, NY

February 6th, 2012, 08:32 PM	#56
MustangMatt96GT Proud American 1996 Mustang GT Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Lakewood, CO Posts: 10,689 iTrader: 3 reviews	Thanks man! It almost looks like Deep Forest Green Like my car in some light. __________________ RIP Travis Billings Special Thanks to: Andrews Racing Transmissions Baseline Suspensions 25.3 SFI Chassis Build Never Lift Racecars

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February 7th, 2012, 09:28 PM	#57
Troy5.0 Newbie 1988 mustang LX Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Aylmer Posts: 41 iTrader: 0 reviews	very nice man __________________ 306 being built

February 9th, 2012, 06:51 AM	#58
Fiacco819 Regular 1993 12.53@110.85 Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: New York Posts: 203 iTrader: 0 reviews	So after a lot of thinking and looking around, I've found which way I'm headed with the engine. Going to keep the short block the same, and add a AFM top-end kit. This gives me weight reduction and hopefully a few more horse's. Going to use my crane RR's, port and polish the typhoon intake and open it up for the 75mm TB, then sell off old/unused items. Should only be $600 more out of the pocket from refurbishing my old heads and getting a cam. Only wished I could go with a larger Anderson cam without cutting pistons __________________ Roc City Mustangs 12.53@110.85 N/A 1.87 60' Rochester, NY

March 20th, 2012, 09:22 PM	#59
Fiacco819 Regular 1993 12.53@110.85 Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: New York Posts: 203 iTrader: 0 reviews	So I've been idle for awhile, doing research, more research, and parts shopping. So here's what I've been up to: Tore down the shortblock, cleaned everything, replaced rings, bearings, and seals. Ditched the old accessory brackets and upgraded alt & P/s brackets for a clean look. Ordered TW170 58cc trackheat heads & intake, with FTI custom camshaft w/matched springs, and a new Centerforce DF clutch. Cleaned and painted the booster, polished misc parts, and started the route wires. Forgot which wires were un-used, so I'll finish wiring once the engine is back in. (Heads should be in tomorrow) __________________ Roc City Mustangs 12.53@110.85 N/A 1.87 60' Rochester, NY

March 20th, 2012, 09:32 PM	#60
69fastback Premium Member 1969 Mustang Mach 1 6.824@101.61 Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Oklahoma jackass, get to driving Posts: 5,565 iTrader: 0 reviews	Nice. That thing should run well. __________________ ./___ _ ____ ___ \. ( ]]] _ _ O _ _ [[[ ) \_ o _ _____ _ o _/ \|___\| ......... \|___\| http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HyYU3...e_gdata_player

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