[RDY4WAR]

The 351W is from a '89 Bronco. I will be just rebuilding the motor with a +.030" overbore to drop in my '86 fox while I slowly build up my 408 stroker with a Man-O-War block to replace it down the road. I'm not looking for anything special out of this motor. The intake will be a Victor Jr paired with a Holley 750. It will be paired to a PA street/strip C4 with 3000-3500 stall and 4.10 gear in the rear. The cam won't be over a .540 lift (max of the valve springs chosen) but I'm waiting until a decision on the heads and intake are made before I choose the cam. The 1/4 mile goal is just a 12.50. Not looking for fast out of it, just consistency as it will be a bracket car. Max rpm will be 5800-6000rpm. Just a few quick questions regarding the 351W.

1) How good are the stock heads? I know they're pretty much crap with small valves and a horrible outdated chamber design but would they be enough to get my goal?

2) The block is a tappet block. Would there be any benefit, with my goals, to doing the retro-fit for hydraulic lifters? Would the tappets be fine for my RPM?

3) What's the max rpm of the factory rockers? With the cam range I'm looking at and springs, would I be required to upgrade?

4) The rebuild will be using lighter hypereutectic pistons with +5cc dome which should give me ~11.1 compression. Would there be any advantage to going with lighter I-beam 570g rods (about 60g lighter than stock rods) in regards to my goal? The rotating assembly will be balanced with the stock crank.

The fox is already stripped and track ready with tubular K member, control arms, rear uppers and lowers, strange adjustable shocks front and back, and FLSFCs. There's no carpeting, no noise dampening, just a driver's seat with a harness bar. The engine will only be turning the alternator and water pump. AC, smog, and everything else is deleted. It will also have an aluminum driveshaft.

Also, I'm not really aiming at quicker than 12.50 as I would like it to compete in the 12.50 index class.

[86_Notch]

My friend is selling some ported windsor jr heads heads with large screw in studs, guide plates, double valve springs, and Howards cams 1.7 rockers with poly locks all for 600 bucks ( obo )

[86_Notch]

They came off of this truck

Nitrous ranger 1 - YouTube




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[RDY4WAR]

Nice! That's a little out of my budget though. I will keep it in mind. This motor won't be together for a few months so they'll probably be sold by then.

[69fastback]

Honestly man, those stock heads are terrible, but if you're just shooting for a 12.50, you should be able to get a combo together that will do it with those heads. Especially with that trans, and 11:1 compression.

2: I'm sure you meant roller lifters, seeing that it's already hydraulic . I haven't looked at any of the small base circle cam grinds in a while. Comp used to make some in the magnum line, that were pretty aggressive. There will be some small base circle haters, but I've ran 2, and never had a problem. One went 10.50s, on the bottle, on the focus. The link bars lifters, and a regular roller, are definetly better but it doesn't sound like its in your budget.

3: I'm not sure which rockers those have??? Aren't they pedestal mount, instead of stud mount?

4: a light rotating assembly is always better, but I wouldn't think the difference in rods would be worth the cost, in your case.

[RDY4WAR]

Originally Posted by 69fastback Honestly man, those stock heads are terrible, but if you're just shooting for a 12.50, you should be able to get a combo together that will do it with those heads. Especially with that trans, and 11:1 compression. 2: I'm sure you meant roller lifters, seeing that it's already hydraulic . I haven't looked at any of the small base circle cam grinds in a while. Comp used to make some in the magnum line, that were pretty aggressive. There will be some small base circle haters, but I've ran 2, and never had a problem. One went 10.50s, on the bottle, on the focus. The link bars lifters, and a regular roller, are definetly better but it doesn't sound like its in your budget. 3: I'm not sure which rockers those have??? Aren't they pedestal mount, instead of stud mount? 4: a light rotating assembly is always better, but I wouldn't think the difference in rods would be worth the cost, in your case.

Oops, yeah I meant roller. Not sure why I said hydraulic. lol

About where does the stock heads start to drop off at? What rpm? That's going to play a bit into my cam choice. If they're going to just dump power above 5,000rpm no matter the supporting mods (intake, cam, etc...) then I'll limit my rpm to 5,500 and try to get as much mid-range as I can.

I'm pretty sure the rockers are pedestal, same as the 302.

As for the bottom end, the motor just has a lot of miles and needs a rebuild. Just not sure if I should just put in new bearings and pistons, rebalance and be good to go or go ahead and replace the rods while I'm at it. Eagle SIR I-beam rods are less than $300 so I'm kinda unsure. I generally don't like Eagle rods and wouldn't use them in a powerhouse motor but in a motor I never expect to see over 400hp and run low rpm, I can deal with them.

[69fastback]

I'd say 5000 would be a good bet. Honestly, I've never seen a performance build with those heads, so it's hard for me to say...lol. I had some older 351 heads, which were only slightly better, and I built it to stop about 5500., but it had a stealth intake, which isn't quite as good as a Vic jr.

[RDY4WAR]

I have considered bumping to Windsor Jr heads or RHS 180 heads later but wouldn't be this year. That would be only if I'm tired of running 12.50s. lol That's just not in the budget right now.

[StangBanger302]

You'll get tired of running 12.50s pretty quickly..lol. As for the stock heads, they can be ported to flow 230/180 ish but it'll run you like 800$....Stock wise, youre gonna need a light car and good gear to run 12.50s on stock heads. Even then, idk man. They're really not better than E7s.

[RDY4WAR]

Originally Posted by StangBanger302 You'll get tired of running 12.50s pretty quickly..lol. As for the stock heads, they can be ported to flow 230/180 ish but it'll run you like 800$....Stock wise, youre gonna need a light car and good gear to run 12.50s on stock heads. Even then, idk man. They're really not better than E7s.

I know I will eventually but that's why I'm building the 408 stroker with the Man-O-War block. I have a stock 351W block here and a +.030" Man-O-War block here as well. Just looking for a quick budget build for the stock block to consistent bracket race while I build the 408 to go 9s. Heads on it will be AFR 225s with a single plane super victor and 750 DP. It will be dry sump, girdled, Callies dragonslayer crank, Callies lightweight forged rods, and Diamond pistons. That will be the build I'll be throwing 2 stages on but it won't be done for a couple years. This 351W build will be a quick build to run some brackets with the car and get the suspension firgured out while I build the bigger motor. That's why I'm not looking to put a whole lot of money into this motor so if stock heads can get me competitive in 12.50 index, I'll be happy.

[StangBanger302]

Look into high port heads for the 408. They're designed for a small bore...depends on what you go with I guess. Either way, I'd rather get the 220cc high ports from TEA with the smaller valves. More flow and better efficiency.