1990 mustang GT not getting spark please help
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Old January 16th, 2012, 03:53 PM   #1
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1990 mustang GT not getting spark please help


The other night my 90 GT died on me after about 10 minutes of driving after work. Acted kinda like I ran out of gas but wen I tried to turn it over it cranks but does not fire. I know I'm getting fuel I hear the pump prime and my fuel pressure gauge shows a reading. I'm not getting spark I've replaced the tfi module the cap and rotor and reinstalled my stock coil but still no spark. What's next? Any suggestions? Thanks in advance guys
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Old January 16th, 2012, 04:14 PM   #2
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Distributor or your coil, You can but a new module for the distributor and new coil from autozone. Thats the two bigest pain in the asses.
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Old January 16th, 2012, 04:16 PM   #3
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I had that same problem. Its was my dizzy car felt like it ran outta gas.
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Old January 16th, 2012, 04:17 PM   #4
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Does it fire when cold? That'd tell me it's definitely an connectivity problem as conductivity decreases with heat (which is why superconductors are almost always liquid helium cooled).

When I had that issue (run fine cold, not even start when hot), it was my coil.

Check your fuses, fusable links, and all grounds. Work your way through the free and cheap stuff before you start replacing the more expensive parts.
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Old January 16th, 2012, 04:29 PM   #5
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My stock coil worked when I pulled it so that's why I used it to rule out the coil. When it died I wouldn't really say it was hot or even warm it was a cold night after I got off work. Would the distributor craping out act like that just shutting off?
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Old January 16th, 2012, 04:33 PM   #6
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when the dizzy goes dead it would act like your running out of fuel because your losing spark. That happened to me
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Old January 16th, 2012, 04:35 PM   #7
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Well, for the dizzy to do it, it would have to be the contact from the coil to the rotor, or the rotor itself. Being that it's not a single or multiple cylinder miss, for everything to crap out means it's somewhere where all the cylinders share a common path, which means either upstream of the dizzy, or downstream of the plugs.
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Old January 16th, 2012, 05:11 PM   #8
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Maybe the sensor inside the dizzy? Is it worth it to try and replace that sensor I believe it's called a stator sensor? Or just try a new dizzy? My ford racing coil that was on there looked like it split at the seem and drained some kinda lubricant? But the connector to the coil does have power to it.
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Old January 16th, 2012, 05:22 PM   #9
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If your coil is leaking, then its no good.

I think in the hanes manual, it shows you how to ohm out the coil. I think the stock coil is some thing like 50 ohms. Dont quote me on that.....
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Old January 16th, 2012, 10:26 PM   #10
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I'm Gunna try and swap the dizzy. Any advice or tips on removing/reinstalling the dizzy so I don't F that up?
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Old January 17th, 2012, 12:47 AM   #11
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Before throwing parts on..
Cranks OK, but No Start Checklist for Fuel Injected Mustangs | Mustang Forums at StangNet

If you go the dizzy route, mark the position of the rotor in relation to the dizzy base before pulling it out and don't turn the engine over while the dizzy is out. Also note the rough clocked position of the whole dizzy as well (angle/direction the TFI module is pointing). With those, you can get to within a few degrees with just your eyes when you put it all back in. Don't drop anything in the hole while the dizzy is out. It really sucks when that happens.
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Old January 17th, 2012, 01:47 PM   #12
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Is there any way for me to check/test the dizzy?
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Old January 17th, 2012, 04:57 PM   #13
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So I went and rented some noid lights from autozone but not quite sure I'm useing them right. I pulled the plug going to the injector harness and none of the lights fit into the female side of harness(the side going to the injectors) so I held the closest one that would fit in and try'd turning it over nothing. Did I perform the test correctly or am I just a dumbass?
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Old January 17th, 2012, 07:17 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by jays90foxbody View Post
So I went and rented some noid lights from autozone but not quite sure I'm useing them right. I pulled the plug going to the injector harness and none of the lights fit into the female side of harness(the side going to the injectors) so I held the closest one that would fit in and try'd turning it over nothing. Did I perform the test correctly or am I just a dumbass?
Unplug a single injector and plug/tap the noid light into that harness plug (not the injector).
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Old January 17th, 2012, 09:19 PM   #15
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I will try that in the mourning. I pulled an injector plug though and the ford noid light didn't fit that either but I'll try and make it work without messing anything else up
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Old January 17th, 2012, 09:29 PM   #16
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Morning = next day in the AM
Mourning = what you'll be doing when it doesn't work
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Old January 18th, 2012, 02:11 AM   #17
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Wow not only can you get advice on ur mustang at MM but spelling and grammar as well it's the total package here people
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Old January 18th, 2012, 04:33 AM   #18
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Sorry, just found the perfect opportunity for a pun. At least you didn't take offense!
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Old January 18th, 2012, 03:04 PM   #19
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Lifes to short to sweat the little things faststang91lx. So I try'd the test over again with the noid light plugged into one of the injector plugs and I did see the light illuminate faintly but not everytime? So does that mean the dizzy is working? What's the next spot to test or look at?
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Old January 18th, 2012, 05:02 PM   #20
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Retried the noid light test again with someone behind the wheel cranking it. light flickered once briefly on the first try then not again untill the key was turned off it flickered again briefly? I'm lost I still think it's the dizzy but if it were how'd the noid light work. Retested the crap out of the coil there's definatly power coming in and going out. Any ideas/thoughts?
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