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#21 |
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I Post Entirely Way Too Much
1991 Ford Mustang GT
Join Date: May 2007
Location: San Diego, California
Posts: 6,063
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Did you check power just before in enters the clutch switch?
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#22 |
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I Post Entirely Way Too Much
1991 Ford Mustang GT
Join Date: May 2007
Location: San Diego, California
Posts: 6,063
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if worse comes to worse, you could tap into the power at the ignition, and run a new wire to the clutch safty switch,
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![]() DART 331ci stroker, AFR 185 heads, Trick Flow R intake, Accufab 70mm tb, 75mm pro m Maf, 30lb injectors, jba headers, 2 1/2" x pipe flowmaster super 10 mufflers, 255 fuel pump, 3:27 gears |
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#23 |
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Regular
1992 Lx hatch
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Suffield
Posts: 105
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so i tapped into the ignition wire and ran it to a switch (on, off) then to the solenoide,
my car was origonally an automatic car so the wires are different due to someone wireing it himself, but it turns over with the key now (: |
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#24 |
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I Post Entirely Way Too Much
1991 Ford Mustang GT
Join Date: May 2007
Location: San Diego, California
Posts: 6,063
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Nice
__________________
![]() DART 331ci stroker, AFR 185 heads, Trick Flow R intake, Accufab 70mm tb, 75mm pro m Maf, 30lb injectors, jba headers, 2 1/2" x pipe flowmaster super 10 mufflers, 255 fuel pump, 3:27 gears |
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#25 |
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I Post Entirely Way Too Much
1991 Mustang LX 5.0
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 5,572
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I would use a momentary contact push button instead of that. Hoped that it's temporary...
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Point made in less than a few hours with minimal response. http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums...ml#post4465184 |
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#26 |
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I Post Entirely Way Too Much
1991 Mustang LX 5.0
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 5,572
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Or am I reading that wrong?
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Point made in less than a few hours with minimal response. http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums...ml#post4465184 |
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#27 |
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I Post Entirely Way Too Much
1991 Ford Mustang GT
Join Date: May 2007
Location: San Diego, California
Posts: 6,063
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Oh...... i didnt notice that, i thought you were saying that you ran the new wire to the clutch safty switch....
I wouldnt run it just to a on /off switch.
__________________
![]() DART 331ci stroker, AFR 185 heads, Trick Flow R intake, Accufab 70mm tb, 75mm pro m Maf, 30lb injectors, jba headers, 2 1/2" x pipe flowmaster super 10 mufflers, 255 fuel pump, 3:27 gears |
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#28 |
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MM Fanatic
89 GT
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: NY
Posts: 4,875
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To clear some things up.. Ford used different coloer wires for the starter depending on the day of the week and what they had laying around apparently. I've seen some with white/pink and some with red/blue. This isn't just mustangs it's all fords in those year ranges and it's not specific to model or year. It usually changes to blue/red right after the switch somewhere though if it was pink/wht at the switch.
If you run that wire from the ignition switch directly to the solenoid, you bypass the part of that circuit that goes to the distributor. The TFI has a start input that it uses to retard the ignition timing when the vehicle is cranking. This allows for easier starts. If you run stock timing, it won't be much of an issue, but if you advance your timing, you'll notice it will start a lot harder without that input hooked up. I have my neutral safety circuit bypassed on my car and ran a wire directly to my solenoid from the switch as well. I fused mine and split it to my distributor as well. It's not technically the correct way of doing it, but it's not an electrical hazard if you run it like that.. Could damage your trans or vehicle if you start it in gear though. Even with an auto it can still lurch forward when cranked in gear. |
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#29 |
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Regular
1992 Lx hatch
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Suffield
Posts: 105
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hmm okay good to know, you see this is hard to sort out due to the car origonally being an automatic, and whoever did the swap just used whatever wire laying around i can tell this by seeing heat shrinkon parts of the wireing down there, at the neutral safety there were two gray with red stripe wires and i cannot recall what the other one was then there was the red with blue stripe, two of them came out of the origonal electrical wrap into a plug with a cap that had a short red with blue stripe wire going out and into the other side which let to the next red with blue stripe which led to the solenoide...
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