PUSH ROD CLEARANCE QUESTION
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Old January 21st, 2012, 11:58 AM   #1
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PUSH ROD CLEARANCE QUESTION


Hey guys, I'm still working on the valve train geometry issue I have and can't figure something out. When I put the push rod down through the head to meet the lifter, and try to set the rocker down over the stud, the push rod will not line up in both cups (lifter and rocker) without rubbing into the top of the channel in the head where the push rod goes through. How do I fix this clearance issue to make sure the push rod moves freely in its channel so I can continue to try and figure out my valve train issues? Thanks in advance for all your help!
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Old January 21st, 2012, 12:27 PM   #2
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Take some good pics if possible.
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Old January 21st, 2012, 12:31 PM   #3
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I figured that would be the first response, but I'm having trouble uploading pics to this site for some reason. :-( I will try again though.
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Old January 21st, 2012, 12:59 PM   #4
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What heads? What rockers? 302 roller block?
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Old January 21st, 2012, 01:17 PM   #5
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another try with pics...



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Old January 21st, 2012, 01:24 PM   #6
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ya, its a 302, trick flow TW 170's, TF 6.700 pushrods( recommended from trick flow), and pro form 1.6 RR's...and I'm still having no luck with the pictures, Sorry fellas. Any other amplifying info that may help, just let me know.
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Old January 21st, 2012, 01:30 PM   #7
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Go to photobucket, upload pics from computer, then copy and paste image code
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Old January 21st, 2012, 01:40 PM   #8
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Your proforms just might be the problem. Do you have any other rockers you could replace one of the proforms with to check and see? I had a set of those and they were all over the place. They were pedestal ones and no matter where I shimmed them, most would still hang off the tip of the valve on my heads. Some worse than others. They're about the worst rocker you can put in an engine. Not to mention they can split open and release the needle bearings in the trunion into your engine oil. I'd ditch them regardless, even if they aren't your problem. But like I said, pull one and replace with a known good one.
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Old January 21st, 2012, 01:53 PM   #9
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hopefully this works
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Old January 21st, 2012, 02:02 PM   #10
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Im not real happy about the pro forms either, bought them off ebay, thinking they were FRPP, (another lesson learned)but its what I have for now, and
I'm unfortunately on a time and budget crunch. :-/
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Old January 21st, 2012, 03:28 PM   #11
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the reccomended pushrod leingth is just reccomended. depending on if your block has been surfaced,your heads have been surfaced. that is why we do mach up before final assymboly. cause if that is infact the correct leingth for your pushrod which you should get a pushrod checker tool to find out. then your head will have to some off and you will have to clearence your pushrod holes.

also i assume you are using hydrollic roller lifters.. do they have oil in them?

it sounds like you need to restart with checking the pushrod leingth with the correct tool first.

i know your in a time crunch but if you dont spend the extra time to do it now you will end up spending much more time and much more money later.
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Old January 21st, 2012, 08:07 PM   #12
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I've got the pushrod length checker on the way from Comp, and I'm definitely not going to risk cutting any corners. I'm just wanting to exhaust all other possibilities before I jump right to assuming the pushrods are too long. I was just wondering if the length would affect how the pushrods are rubbing in the channel like that?
The heads have been milled .012, and its starting to look like the block was decked at some point because the piston rises above the deck at least .005....I'm also gonna look at trying to sell off those pro forms and find something a little better. Does anyone know anything good or bad about the Comp rockers in the summit catalog?
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Old January 21st, 2012, 08:17 PM   #13
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the only problem i had with a comp rocker was the coner of one of the snap rings broke off and got caught in my oil pump while going down the track. i replaced the oil pump checked rhe remaining ones and put them back in.
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Old January 22nd, 2012, 08:23 PM   #14
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Thanks e3sean... I am going to have to use them for a few months until I can get out to my next base and get moved in. I just need to get my car rebuilt and running in the next 2-3 weeks so I can concentrate on doing all I need to do for the move. :-)
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