Your Fox Body weight reduction tricks & tips?
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Old January 23rd, 2012, 07:54 PM   #1
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Your Fox Body weight reduction tricks & tips?


Im fairly new to the fox body world as i have wrecked my sn95 cobra.. I recently put my 4.6 4v into the fox chassis and what not but have no idea on where to start on weight reductions.. so what have/suggest me do as far as weight reductions? GO CRAZY!

thanks
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Old January 23rd, 2012, 07:58 PM   #2
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weight removal in mustangs - Yellow Bullet Forums
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Old January 24th, 2012, 09:13 AM   #3
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hack saw... ;P
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Old January 24th, 2012, 10:37 AM   #4
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Ive read that thread quite a few times. Good reading material on the bullet.
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Old January 24th, 2012, 12:27 PM   #5
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Too late now but an aluminum 4v block drops weight. You may have used one?
Very popular but not safe to do is remove the bumper supports. Saves about 50lbs
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Old January 24th, 2012, 01:43 PM   #6
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Lightweight battery,
bumper supports (not recommend for street use)
scrape all sound deadening material,
aftermarket hood depends on brand
A/C Delete,
Metal framing behind dash
Rear Seat Delete
Spare Tire and Jack etc
Dumps instead of tailpipes,
Lightweight Rims help out a lot
Race seats over stockers
K-member and coil over setup
Aluminum Driveshaft
Stereo delete, speakers, amps etc

This should get you started LOL.
You will get increased suspension, drivetrain and interior noise.
I have mine stripped down and it takes a little getting used too.
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Old January 24th, 2012, 02:52 PM   #7
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Id pick and choose wich things you want to delete, only because if this isnt going to be a full blown race car, you might mess up the value of the car..... at least to me it would, id never buy a fox that was missing bumper supports, and dash board frame, ect..... and if theres no back seat in the car, then it better come with it so i can put it back in if i choose to. If you do choose to go that far, id hold onto it in case you want to sell the car, then you can put it all back on. Even if you dont think that youll ever sell the car...... things in life change, so never say never, i see it all the time......just my two cents

I dont know, i like to have fun in my car, weather it be at a track or just driving to friends house, i like to have a/c, and power this, and power that, and want all my interior panels with sound deadner, i dont need to hear every rock that hits the bottom of my car, so again if this isnt going to be a track only car, id put some real thought into what you choose to delete
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Old January 24th, 2012, 03:08 PM   #8
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There are other ways to get rid of weight with out removing stuctural support, just by buying better, stronger lighter parts, such as tubular cross member and a-arms, lighter wheels, if you have subs in the back, take them out, lighter shocks and struts, ect, ect..... now going this route cost more because your upgrading parts instead of just deleting thing which is free, but just upgrading for the most part it does not take value away, and doesnt take away from safty or structure from the car, the only value that might be lost, is if some ones looking for a original, stock mustang, which in your case is lost any ways with your engine swap, or some one could look at the fact that since you had race parts on the car, thats its been beat on hard, but other then that it should hold value.


This is just one of many reason why trying to find a nice foxbody at a reasonable price is getting harder and harder to find......but to each there own, its your car and your money, do what you will


If i wanted a full on race only car, then ill just buy one that some else all ready stripped down, but ill tell ya one thing, if im only getting half a car, then i better be paying half the price....lol
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Last edited by ryanw; January 24th, 2012 at 06:28 PM.
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Old January 24th, 2012, 05:58 PM   #9
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Sign up for a gym membership. Win-Win situation right there
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Old January 24th, 2012, 07:47 PM   #10
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yea its a little late for an aluminum block..

BUT..... i have already taken out the dash frame/supports.. the heater core box.. rear seats.. jack and spare tire.. all inner trim.. door trims/ electric windows. windshield wiper motor (i dont drive her in the rain). ALL a/c lines.
thats all i can think of atm.. whats left i guess would be lighter seats, the sound lining and what not on the floor board, manual rack, and tubular front end components.
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Old January 25th, 2012, 08:49 AM   #11
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get on a diet, run every day


I'm currently on my own "weight reduction" mod on my own fat ass. working well so far.
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Old January 27th, 2012, 01:54 PM   #12
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what aftermarket hoods do you guys recommend? i need to get a 2 inch hood cowl anyway. and what would be the weight comparison from stock to lighter aftermarket one?

i got the scat pro-car seats, it weighs exactly 30 lbs compared to the stock seats which is approximately 46.2 lbs. (i weighed it, lol) if you're looking for a very good weight reduction i say go with the buddyclub seat, those seats only weigh 11 lbs each. and if you dont have any friends or a gf all u need is one. lol jk
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Old January 28th, 2012, 01:45 AM   #13
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Boss inc pro-cowl








btw the weight is with the stock hood with latch and shit attached, boss didn't have the latch installed yet. So add about a pound to the weight of the boss hood for a more accurate weight difference.


STOCK HOOD


BOSS
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Old January 28th, 2012, 05:11 AM   #14
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thanks army!
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Old January 28th, 2012, 06:05 AM   #15
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My harwood is 23 lbs with latch installed. 3 inch cowl.

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Old January 28th, 2012, 05:07 PM   #16
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is there anything with a 2 inch cowl that's aftermarket around the same weight as 20 lbs? i'll go check harwood's website.
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Old January 28th, 2012, 09:00 PM   #17
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battery relocation wont save weight, but it'll put it in a better spot. i put mine in the spare tire well. i cut out the rug to fit around it and just the top of the battery box is taller than the rug. looks pretty decent and was a really cheap job
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Old January 28th, 2012, 11:44 PM   #18
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^ +1

I remember reading one time that moving a 37lb battery from the front to over the rear axle is like 60lbs of weight transfer.
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Old January 29th, 2012, 12:01 AM   #19
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i was reading on the instructions on how to do one and they said you should drop the gas tank to fish the lines through. this is the kit on the summit.com i believe
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Old January 29th, 2012, 12:27 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by bennyjet846 View Post
i was reading on the instructions on how to do one and they said you should drop the gas tank to fish the lines through. this is the kit on the summit.com i believe
That's awful advice. If that was the best way to run the wires, every stereo shop would charge 10x more to run amp wires. I've been fishing 4, 2, and 0ga wires through the interiors of cars for 12 yrs now. Never once ran the wire on the outside of the car and never once have had wire showing in the interior.
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