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Discussing Lifter tick identification in the 5.0 Mustangs Forum. EDIT** - This was supposed to be in 5.0 Mustangs, but I was looking at ...

       

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Old June 7th, 2007, 12:56 PM   #1
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Lifter tick identification


EDIT** - This was supposed to be in 5.0 Mustangs, but I was looking at a topic in 99-04 and hit New Post in that by accident. If a mod could move it, thatd be great


Hey yall, im new around here, there is a lot of good info on this site.

Anyways, Im looking at this 89 mustang that this guy is selling for a steal, only thing wrong with the motor, freshly rebuilt, is a ticking sound. Its a sort of hollow tick-tick-tick that started from start up and i think it went faster as the rpm increased as well (i didnt drive it long, just checked it out briefly). He says he is almost 100% sure it is a sticking lifter, it sounds like it is on the drivers side. He said he had it checked out and was also told that it is definitely a sticking/bad lifter. He has crane lifters in, and said they were new when he put them in, so thats kinda weird that it was bad outta the box basically.

I wish I had a sound clip of it, but if anyone has any experience with sticking/bad lifters, can you give me some advice on how to identify if it is definitely a lifter ticking and not a rod bearing or something more severe?

Also, how hard is it to replace lifters? I have also read that you can add a quart of automatic transmission fluid for a little while to help loosen up the lifter and lubricate it more. I havent bought it yet, so I cant troubleshoot much really.

Thanks for any input yall can give me![/b]
 
Old June 7th, 2007, 08:25 PM   #2
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Anybody?
 
Old June 7th, 2007, 09:52 PM   #3
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Could just be that he didn't shim the pedestals correctly and you are hearing a positive valve lash. Replacing lifters isn't hard, but you'll have to take the top of the motor apart and in some rare cases you have to take the heads off too.
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Old June 7th, 2007, 10:22 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by ryans88gt
Could just be that he didn't shim the pedestals correctly and you are hearing a positive valve lash. Replacing lifters isn't hard, but you'll have to take the top of the motor apart and in some rare cases you have to take the heads off too.
Really? Take the heads off to get to the lifters?

I dont have any pictures of it, but I can get it for ~2500-2800 bucks. Its an 89 notch. New t5 with warranty, rebuilt engine, mild cam, lowering springs, new wheels and tires, custom 3.5 inch exhaust all the way back and the h-pipe is behind the tranny so you dont have to pull all of the exhaust off to drop it.

There is some more stuff, but I just dont understand why the price is so low for it, he said he just wants to get rid of it, but I dont want to buy someone else's problem, ya know?
 
Old June 7th, 2007, 11:03 PM   #5
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The rockers are under the valve covers. Check them to make sure they are adjusted right. You won't need to pull the heads off unless you need to replace the lifters. Also make sure there is not an exhaust leak. It will sound like a ticking too.
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Old June 7th, 2007, 11:08 PM   #6
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u dont really have to take the heads off to get to the lifters. U just take the valve covers, Plenum, Intake. Then take the rocker arms off then pull the pushrods out then remove the lifters hold downplates then pull ur lifters out.
 
Old June 8th, 2007, 01:53 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by 86blkmustang
u dont really have to take the heads off to get to the lifters. U just take the valve covers, Plenum, Intake. Then take the rocker arms off then pull the pushrods out then remove the lifters hold downplates then pull ur lifters out.
As I stated in some rare cases it can absolutely be necessary to remove the heads to pull the roller lifters completely out of their bores. Depends greatly on the heads. Trust me, I've actually done it before. Some aftermarket heads even have special provisions to workaround this problem.
 
Old June 8th, 2007, 01:57 AM   #8
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I would say take the car for a good 30 minute drive including some highway miles. See if the problem becomes worse. How's the oil pressure?

A ticking sound could be anything from a misfire, to the engine getting ready to let go, to a bad lifter, to a messed up valve train, to an exhaust leak.

For that low of a price though, if the body is in good shape, it's probably worth it.
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Old June 8th, 2007, 02:42 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by ryans88gt
I would say take the car for a good 30 minute drive including some highway miles. See if the problem becomes worse. How's the oil pressure?

A ticking sound could be anything from a misfire, to the engine getting ready to let go, to a bad lifter, to a messed up valve train, to an exhaust leak.

For that low of a price though, if the body is in good shape, it's probably worth it.
+1 on the price. I would pay that much for a good body with a good tranny and suspension with a blown motor or no motor. Of course its all a matter of finances. If you can't afford to spend the money to fix it or the down time it takes to fix it, I would look around some more. Paint jobs alone cost as much as a motor.
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Old June 8th, 2007, 09:26 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by neverfastenough1
Paint jobs alone cost as much as a motor.
x1000

Good straight body work and paint is worth way more than a good motor!

I've had some estimates for paint and body work come in at over $7000. I'm sure I can build a 500-600hp motor for that. Lets see 351w block, stroker kit, decent heads, and a 150 shot...should still have money left over for tires...

I'd say buy it, or give me his number and I'll buy it, fix the motor and sell the car to you for $5000...

 
Old June 8th, 2007, 12:01 PM   #11
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Im new here also. But I too bought a notchback with a slight lifter tick. The car is an notch with a 351W. It was a very faint tick until I got about 5 miles from my house. One of the rocker arms broke in half!!!

Its all taken care of now but definately check it out first!!!
 
Old June 8th, 2007, 12:03 PM   #12
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I pulled the valve cover and this is what I found.

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i2...mustang009.jpg
 
Old June 8th, 2007, 06:05 PM   #13
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Wow. I would check the lift on that cam lobe with a dial indicator and make sure its in spec after seeing that. Also check the motor closely for other failed valvetrain parts.
 
Old June 9th, 2007, 11:03 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by kingpin3
I pulled the valve cover and this is what I found.

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i2...mustang009.jpg
That would be no fun...

what brand of rocker was that? Didn't look particularly strong...pro comp maybe?
 
Old June 9th, 2007, 03:39 PM   #15
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Either a quality issue, an over torqued rocker maybe, or the bottom was touching the rocker stud hex.
 
Old June 12th, 2007, 07:02 PM   #16
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Thanks for all the replies yall. I havent had the chance to check the car out again since I last posted. I dont know if i have the finances to be able to take the chance on the car if it could be anything more than a stuck lifter.....unfortunately. It sucks, I really want this notch, but hey, what can ya do. I just graduated college (put myself through = no money), so maybe when I get on with the career I want, I might be able to find another steal like this.

Either way, i really appreciate the great posts, this site is great and has some really good advice for idiots like me. If anyone wants this guy's number, and lives around Charlotte, NC, hit me up, Ill be more than welcome to help this guy sell it. (NO money grubbing finders fee kinda shit, just bein nice)
 
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