How much to replace flywheel and where to go?

almcwhor · February 2nd, 2012, 10:54 PM

I need tips on where to go to get flywheel replaced and how much it might cost. It takes too long to remove the engine with the tools i have and i would rather spend the big mulah to have people install a seriously tough one.

FastStang91Lx · February 2nd, 2012, 11:15 PM

Dude, you using sticks and rocks? I just recently got myself an air compressor, I've been using normal hand tools for years. If you have a two piece jack handle, you can use one half as a extention bar over a ratchet even. Anyway, if you are removing the engine to replace the flywheel, you're doing it wrong!

ryanw · February 2nd, 2012, 11:24 PM

Pull the trans.

You should be able to get a fly wheel almost any where

Bubba95SN · February 2nd, 2012, 11:44 PM

Remove transmission and the bellhousing to get to flywheel.

furreal302 · February 3rd, 2012, 12:13 AM

You're looking at 400 bucks at least to have a shop do it. That's what I would charge anyway. But like the people above me said, you don't need a whole lot of tools to do things like this. I've pulled countless engines and transmissions with a basic tool set and elbow grease. And you don't need to pull the engine to get to the flywheel.

horsepowerjunkie · February 3rd, 2012, 08:06 AM

Why are you replacing the flywheel for a "seriously tough one"? Is your clutch bad? Ring gear bad?

e3sean · February 3rd, 2012, 05:13 PM

yes what is the issue you are having to lead you to believe that you have a bad flywheel without having seen it.

also most machine shops can resurface the flywheel and male it just like new for a fraction of the cost of a new one.

if your pulling it out might as well put in a new clutch.

almcwhor · February 13th, 2012, 11:29 PM

the reason i need someone else to do it is because i do not really know how. me and my dad pulled the engine because we were replacing the oil pump and other misc. parts. and when we reconnected idk if we did it wrong or what but it cracked. i am worried that if i do it again ( maybe i did it wrong) that it will torque and break under pressure again. im not street racing this or anything either. just a moddest driver. plus the other reason for paying is that its cold as nipples outside and no garage to do it in. I really dont know but any tips would help alot. i want to do it without paying someones for my wallets sake but its just a hell of alot easier coming from a computer geek and not a car guru

almcwhor · February 13th, 2012, 11:31 PM

oh and all i did to hook the engine back to the trans was reverse engineering... thats all i knew and i looked at videos and researched a TON like over the course of a week everyday on the comp for hours. and little to show for it

ryanw · February 14th, 2012, 12:53 AM

Youll get more info if you come back more and check the progress of your thread.

I guess your not in a hurry cuz it took you 11 days to check your own thread out.

almcwhor · February 14th, 2012, 12:28 PM

Your right. I'm not in a huge hurry but still lookin for help I anyone is willing to give

ryanw · February 14th, 2012, 03:16 PM

I have never replaced a fly wheel before, but im guessing its straight forward, remove the bolts, and remove the pilot bearing.
Install new fly wheel torqre down bolts in a cross pattern. Ive been told its always good to use new bolts although i think most dont do it. Slide in new pilot bearing, you should be able to look up the torque specs..

Hey guys if i have this wrong, correct me, i dont want to give out wrong info.

94bossgt · February 14th, 2012, 03:24 PM

ill do it for 350 you will have it back in a day if your in the allentown pa area

brandon444 · February 14th, 2012, 03:29 PM

ryan pretty much nailed it, you'd have to press in new dowel pins to, and id go ahead and replace the bolts the old threads will be stretched and new bolts are 15 bucks, cheap insurance for something spinning that fast by your feet, and use thread locker

almcwhor · February 14th, 2012, 04:01 PM

ok kewl kewl and is there a huge difference in flywheels/flexplates? i can get one for 65 bucks at napa or a "racing one" from latemodelrestoration for 170. oh btw its an automatic trans. 5.0 89 convertible if that matters. I have another question. Is there anything special to do when attack the flexplates to the transmission when connecting?

ryanw · February 14th, 2012, 04:47 PM

Fly wheels are manual trans and a flex plate is for a auto trans...

What trans do you have

Tpratt93 · February 14th, 2012, 08:33 PM

You don't have to pull the engine. I actually just bought a new flywheel yesterday. 55$ from O'Reilly's. Just an OEM replacement of course. You can drop the trans, I actually just put a jack underneath it and let the jack hold it up, and pushed it back so I could get in there enough. You might run into exhaust issues, being in the way, I had to unbolt mine from the headers(shorties), after that it wasn't to bad. You'll probably need another hand when you torque it though. If not you''ll just turn the engine over.

Tpratt93 · February 14th, 2012, 08:37 PM

And it's 75-85lbs to torque it, the flywheel anyways, I'm not sure if it's different for a flex plate. But yes, as Ryan mentions do it in a cross/star pattern so it goes down evenly. If you have a 5spd, make sure you unbolt the shifter, you can do it from underneath as well. But it's pretty self explanatory after you get under there. Other than that, make sure you get the clutch disk back in facing the correct way. (if you have a 5spd)

almcwhor · February 14th, 2012, 10:53 PM

kk sorry for extending this but i am seriously confident in doing this on my own now but how in the hell did you guys unbolt the bell housing from the engine without removing the headers and/or upper intake manifold

brandon444 · February 14th, 2012, 11:02 PM

once you get the drive shaft out and the cross member, have a jack to hold up the end of the trans

make sure its on there good so it doesn't slip off!!!

but then slowly lower the jack slightly to tilt the whole engine and trans back, have someone else watch the engine in the bay for clearance, you should have enough to get the bolts. then you can get a long extension up there to take them out, do those before you do the other bellhousing bolts

February 2nd, 2012, 10:54 PM	#1
almcwhor Newbie Join Date: Nov 2010 Posts: 46 iTrader: 0 reviews	How much to replace flywheel and where to go? I need tips on where to go to get flywheel replaced and how much it might cost. It takes too long to remove the engine with the tools i have and i would rather spend the big mulah to have people install a seriously tough one.

February 2nd, 2012, 11:15 PM	#2
FastStang91Lx I Post Entirely Way Too Much 1991 Mustang LX 5.0 Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Minnesota Posts: 5,572 iTrader: 2 reviews	Dude, you using sticks and rocks? I just recently got myself an air compressor, I've been using normal hand tools for years. If you have a two piece jack handle, you can use one half as a extention bar over a ratchet even. Anyway, if you are removing the engine to replace the flywheel, you're doing it wrong! __________________ Point made in less than a few hours with minimal response. http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums...ml#post4465184

February 2nd, 2012, 11:24 PM	#3
ryanw I Post Entirely Way Too Much 1991 Ford Mustang GT Join Date: May 2007 Location: San Diego, California Posts: 6,063 iTrader: 0 reviews	Pull the trans. You should be able to get a fly wheel almost any where __________________ DART 331ci stroker, AFR 185 heads, Trick Flow R intake, Accufab 70mm tb, 75mm pro m Maf, 30lb injectors, jba headers, 2 1/2" x pipe flowmaster super 10 mufflers, 255 fuel pump, 3:27 gears

February 2nd, 2012, 11:44 PM	#4
Bubba95SN Regular 1995 Mustang GT Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Jacksonville NC Posts: 211 iTrader: 0 reviews	Remove transmission and the bellhousing to get to flywheel. Last edited by Bubba95SN; February 2nd, 2012 at 11:44 PM. Reason: sp

February 3rd, 2012, 12:13 AM	#5
furreal302 Regular 94 GT 13.95@100 Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: NY Posts: 435 iTrader: 2 reviews	You're looking at 400 bucks at least to have a shop do it. That's what I would charge anyway. But like the people above me said, you don't need a whole lot of tools to do things like this. I've pulled countless engines and transmissions with a basic tool set and elbow grease. And you don't need to pull the engine to get to the flywheel. __________________ 94 Opal Frost GT ~230k T5 swap, other mods

February 3rd, 2012, 08:06 AM	#6
horsepowerjunkie Hardcore Enthusiast 1989 Black LX---Turbo Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: just outside Minot, ND Posts: 1,153 iTrader: 0 reviews	Why are you replacing the flywheel for a "seriously tough one"? Is your clutch bad? Ring gear bad? __________________ 89 LX Black, Boss 331, C4,T76BB, FAST EFI 82 Capri RS,89 5.0 HO,Comp XE266,TW 170,T5,etc. 73 Dart Sport 340, 410ci Bracket Brawler 72 Demon 340 4-speed 1 of 1667 01 Ram Quad Cab 03 Grizzley 660

February 3rd, 2012, 05:13 PM	#7
e3sean I Post Entirely Way Too Much 1988 lx 9.68@142 Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: goldsboro NC Posts: 5,609 iTrader: 0 reviews	yes what is the issue you are having to lead you to believe that you have a bad flywheel without having seen it. also most machine shops can resurface the flywheel and male it just like new for a fraction of the cost of a new one. if your pulling it out might as well put in a new clutch. __________________

February 13th, 2012, 11:29 PM	#8
almcwhor Newbie Join Date: Nov 2010 Posts: 46 iTrader: 0 reviews	the reason i need someone else to do it is because i do not really know how. me and my dad pulled the engine because we were replacing the oil pump and other misc. parts. and when we reconnected idk if we did it wrong or what but it cracked. i am worried that if i do it again ( maybe i did it wrong) that it will torque and break under pressure again. im not street racing this or anything either. just a moddest driver. plus the other reason for paying is that its cold as nipples outside and no garage to do it in. I really dont know but any tips would help alot. i want to do it without paying someones for my wallets sake but its just a hell of alot easier coming from a computer geek and not a car guru

February 13th, 2012, 11:31 PM	#9
almcwhor Newbie Join Date: Nov 2010 Posts: 46 iTrader: 0 reviews	oh and all i did to hook the engine back to the trans was reverse engineering... thats all i knew and i looked at videos and researched a TON like over the course of a week everyday on the comp for hours. and little to show for it

February 14th, 2012, 12:53 AM	#10
ryanw I Post Entirely Way Too Much 1991 Ford Mustang GT Join Date: May 2007 Location: San Diego, California Posts: 6,063 iTrader: 0 reviews	Youll get more info if you come back more and check the progress of your thread. I guess your not in a hurry cuz it took you 11 days to check your own thread out. __________________ DART 331ci stroker, AFR 185 heads, Trick Flow R intake, Accufab 70mm tb, 75mm pro m Maf, 30lb injectors, jba headers, 2 1/2" x pipe flowmaster super 10 mufflers, 255 fuel pump, 3:27 gears

February 14th, 2012, 12:28 PM	#11
almcwhor Newbie Join Date: Nov 2010 Posts: 46 iTrader: 0 reviews	Your right. I'm not in a huge hurry but still lookin for help I anyone is willing to give

February 14th, 2012, 03:16 PM	#12
ryanw I Post Entirely Way Too Much 1991 Ford Mustang GT Join Date: May 2007 Location: San Diego, California Posts: 6,063 iTrader: 0 reviews	I have never replaced a fly wheel before, but im guessing its straight forward, remove the bolts, and remove the pilot bearing. Install new fly wheel torqre down bolts in a cross pattern. Ive been told its always good to use new bolts although i think most dont do it. Slide in new pilot bearing, you should be able to look up the torque specs.. Hey guys if i have this wrong, correct me, i dont want to give out wrong info. __________________ DART 331ci stroker, AFR 185 heads, Trick Flow R intake, Accufab 70mm tb, 75mm pro m Maf, 30lb injectors, jba headers, 2 1/2" x pipe flowmaster super 10 mufflers, 255 fuel pump, 3:27 gears

February 14th, 2012, 03:24 PM	#13
94bossgt Regular 94 mustang gt too slow to tell Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: northampton pa Posts: 233 iTrader: 0 reviews	ill do it for 350 you will have it back in a day if your in the allentown pa area

February 14th, 2012, 03:29 PM	#14
brandon444 Regular 91 Mustang LX 5.0 Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Haubstadt, IN Posts: 469 iTrader: 0 reviews	ryan pretty much nailed it, you'd have to press in new dowel pins to, and id go ahead and replace the bolts the old threads will be stretched and new bolts are 15 bucks, cheap insurance for something spinning that fast by your feet, and use thread locker

February 14th, 2012, 04:01 PM	#15
almcwhor Newbie Join Date: Nov 2010 Posts: 46 iTrader: 0 reviews	ok kewl kewl and is there a huge difference in flywheels/flexplates? i can get one for 65 bucks at napa or a "racing one" from latemodelrestoration for 170. oh btw its an automatic trans. 5.0 89 convertible if that matters. I have another question. Is there anything special to do when attack the flexplates to the transmission when connecting?

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February 14th, 2012, 04:47 PM	#16
ryanw I Post Entirely Way Too Much 1991 Ford Mustang GT Join Date: May 2007 Location: San Diego, California Posts: 6,063 iTrader: 0 reviews	Fly wheels are manual trans and a flex plate is for a auto trans... What trans do you have __________________ DART 331ci stroker, AFR 185 heads, Trick Flow R intake, Accufab 70mm tb, 75mm pro m Maf, 30lb injectors, jba headers, 2 1/2" x pipe flowmaster super 10 mufflers, 255 fuel pump, 3:27 gears

February 14th, 2012, 08:33 PM	#17
Tpratt93 Newbie Join Date: Apr 2011 Posts: 21 iTrader: 0 reviews	You don't have to pull the engine. I actually just bought a new flywheel yesterday. 55$ from O'Reilly's. Just an OEM replacement of course. You can drop the trans, I actually just put a jack underneath it and let the jack hold it up, and pushed it back so I could get in there enough. You might run into exhaust issues, being in the way, I had to unbolt mine from the headers(shorties), after that it wasn't to bad. You'll probably need another hand when you torque it though. If not you''ll just turn the engine over.

February 14th, 2012, 08:37 PM	#18
Tpratt93 Newbie Join Date: Apr 2011 Posts: 21 iTrader: 0 reviews	And it's 75-85lbs to torque it, the flywheel anyways, I'm not sure if it's different for a flex plate. But yes, as Ryan mentions do it in a cross/star pattern so it goes down evenly. If you have a 5spd, make sure you unbolt the shifter, you can do it from underneath as well. But it's pretty self explanatory after you get under there. Other than that, make sure you get the clutch disk back in facing the correct way. (if you have a 5spd)

February 14th, 2012, 10:53 PM	#19
almcwhor Newbie Join Date: Nov 2010 Posts: 46 iTrader: 0 reviews	kk sorry for extending this but i am seriously confident in doing this on my own now but how in the hell did you guys unbolt the bell housing from the engine without removing the headers and/or upper intake manifold

February 14th, 2012, 11:02 PM	#20
brandon444 Regular 91 Mustang LX 5.0 Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Haubstadt, IN Posts: 469 iTrader: 0 reviews	once you get the drive shaft out and the cross member, have a jack to hold up the end of the trans make sure its on there good so it doesn't slip off!!! but then slowly lower the jack slightly to tilt the whole engine and trans back, have someone else watch the engine in the bay for clearance, you should have enough to get the bolts. then you can get a long extension up there to take them out, do those before you do the other bellhousing bolts

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