[BWAL]

ok, as some of you know.. i just purchased a 1989 5.0 LX hatch.. in this thread i will explain what i am looking fr and i want you guys to tell me the best way to achieve these results..

ok, basically what i am looking for, performance wise, is a car that is good with handling, going around corners, traction, and power.. pretty much the total package.. i want to have a car that is tame enough to be a daily driver, but i want it to have enough power that i will NEVER get bored with it and i can whoop up on ANY car i come across.. ive neverbeen in a purpose built race car or anything, so i dont know how much power is too much.. i just want a general bad ass car that i will look forward to driving to work every day

i would still like the car to be a 5 speed (or 6 )

i dont mind an engine swap or turbocharger(s) or supercharger

i'd like for my car to be very very powerful without overdoing it.. i want an engine that will last too.. i would also like my engine to be set up so that i could use nitrous without problems, but also have it so that i dont need nitrous to kick other car's asses..

i'd like to know exactly how i should go about doing all this.. a detailed list of parts would be GREAT.

if possible, a price list and/or a place to purchase parts would be awesome too..

i know stangzilla or JBIGBOOTSY can help me if nobody else can..

thanks, you guys are awesome

[JBIGBOOTSY]

The cheapest power combo I've expierenced is, stock bottom, gt40ps(valve job and springs a must) put a 600 holly ontop of a edl. rpm, cam, good clutch, 4.10s slicks. I've myself (and if youve read my latest posts, you'll see I can't drive) gotten 12.90s out of it. add a 100-150 nitrous kit and your well into the mid 11s all this can be done for about 1200-1500 smackeroos. If you got more money, then you can go even further. just remember the evil 450-500 hp. mark (the breaking point).

[vfast]

I would hunt down a 351 block and go from there adding some used aluminum heads with a 2.02 valve, a nice stage 2 cam, used intake like a proffessional products or the like since price is a concern...or if going carb a nice single plane intake and a AED 750 carb

[dr.gonzo!]

Take your car apart and replace pretty much damn near everything. j/k

all at www.summitracing.com


SUM-CSUM20005 (shocks springs)

CEE-3048 (subframe connectors weld on)

MTT-3743R (tires, check size)

TFS-K514-360350B (Top end kit) and sell the cam it comes with and get the TFS-51402001 cam (it should be the stage 2 cam) (make sure your cam will work with forced induction!)


PAX-1001844-P (supercharger 7.5 psi)

TFS-N515R (Wet Nitrous)

MSD-8682 (Adjustable Timing Controls)

WLK-85133 (long tube headers)

BBK-1660 (x pipe should fit the 5.8)

PWR-8144XPR (brake rotors)

pads are up to You. (if its driven on the street dont get race pads they dodnt work very good when cold)

SSB-A112-1 (rear disk brakes)

BMM-45070 (short throw shifter)

PNX-COMBO351WR (ignition kit distrb, wires, box)

plugs are up to you. colder set mabey

big gauges and lots of stickers.


Then go to ebay or a junk yard and find a 351 ROLLER(important) short block. You can rebuild your own but that is a crap load of part numbers. or ebay.com

here is one. Make sure to ask them for the roller block.


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ford-...QQcmdZViewItem

Take out the cam that comes with the short block and sell it.
bolt on the trick flow kit with stage 2 cam


get a perfomance alignment I think its -1 degree toe in. I dont recall. better turn in

go one a diet and lose some weight lol

this is what i would do if I had the money. except with a big block

[usmcsawgunner]

dont forget about the suspension because you can have all the power in the world but if you cant put it to the ground and/or go around a corner without under or over steering then its worthless....there are some great saleen 4 and 5 link rear suspensions as well as whole kits in mustang mags...keep reading up on it and write down everything that looks like it would fit your need then do a reality check and figure out how much you can afford to do to it.....

[fogged306]

Originally Posted by vfast I would hunt down a 351 block and go from there adding some used aluminum heads with a 2.02 valve, a nice stage 2 cam, used intake like a proffessional products or the like since price is a concern...or if going carb a nice single plane intake and a AED 750 carb

+1 on the 351. more cubes and they are a LOT stronger than a 302. Great starting block(no pun intended) for a build-up with some power. I've heard nothing but good about the AFR heads too.

Carb will be cheaper, but, (and I know some die hard carb guys will tell me where to stick it) I think with a proper tune, EFI will be more streetable.

[onewinner]

come on everyone should know that the 302 block is stronger than the 351--- or is it ?????

[95wip]

Originally Posted by onewinner come on everyone should know that the 302 block is stronger than the 351--- or is it ?????

i asked this question many many time when i was looking to do a 351 in my car and the answer is no. 351 is stronger!

[Tony_90fox]

I believe he was kidding!

[vfast]

I like them the both....but it's so much cheaper and easier to tune with a carb for me....for what you pay for a good carb you'll have in a tweecer rt or PMS

Originally Posted by fogged306 Originally Posted by vfast I would hunt down a 351 block and go from there adding some used aluminum heads with a 2.02 valve, a nice stage 2 cam, used intake like a proffessional products or the like since price is a concern...or if going carb a nice single plane intake and a AED 750 carb +1 on the 351. more cubes and they are a LOT stronger than a 302. Great starting block(no pun intended) for a build-up with some power. I've heard nothing but good about the AFR heads too. Carb will be cheaper, but, (and I know some die hard carb guys will tell me where to stick it) I think with a proper tune, EFI will be more streetable.

[95opal]

engine:
Dart block 331 low compression
Afr 185s
cam of choice
ported stock lower
Kenne bell
supporting mods

Suspension
Subframes
Upper and lowers
coil overs
k-member
a-arms

[neverfastenough1]

460 SB, Tremec TKO 600, Strange bolt in 9" rear end. Oh yeah, a cage, some racing seats and a five point harness. Don't forget the suspension because with 600 + N/A horses you'll want to find some traction. Don't ask the prices. You don't want to know! Don't forget the little flexible radio antenna!

Seriously though, I am shooting for a BOSS 347 with a turbo and a TKO 600. Who knows though, maybe I will wake up from my dream and find a 351/393 or a 351/408 in it. It would be cheaper .

[BWAL]

sweet! you guys have all had awesome responses.. ok lets change this up a little..

i keep the 302 engine
i keep the car n/a
run on pump gas
right around 600RWHP give or take about 20HP

[dr.gonzo!]

520 mabey and thats stroked out to max and after all that money you could have a 351 and its stronger than the 302. hell you could find a 351 and stroke that out. You wanna stay n/a look at what darrell did.

[BWAL]

so you're saying its not possible?

[dr.gonzo!]

You would split the block. mabey if you went with a dart block. but the stock one will not hold that much. it came with 220 hp and you want to make 600 at the wheel. the stock block was not made to hold 3 times the hp. not to mention the rest of the driveline.


here is what 500 something hp looks like with a turbo mustang.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZjalulinXxQ

that looks fast enough to me. all that hp on a short wheelbase can leave you saying "oh shit" real fast.

[nolife]

I've seen that vid in the past. I was wondering about the of rear suspension and/or tires on that car.

[92Rideagain]

Wait and see what the new Boss blocks are going to run, they have a 331 short block & and long block coming available pretty soon. I would purchase one of them due to the factory warranty that goes along with them. Then you have a personal choice of what type of power adder you would like and what your budget is going to be. The biggest weakness of a Mustang is its brakes so you will need stopping power on the same level of the horsepower. To keep the Mustang affordable Ford dropped the ball on the suspension. Griggs makes front & rear suspensions but keep in mind it is not cheap. There's an atricle that read a few months back where they did a 5 issue coverage on the Griggs install. The finished product was a Mustang that was able to do 1.07 on the skip pad. Keep in mind the best that it could do stock is from 0.75 to 0.79, anything over 1.00 is exotics territory. Maximum Motorsports also makes great suspension pieces. As with any project you must decide first what is the budget, what are horsepower goals and how do you plan to drive the car. Read, Read, Read, the Mustang mags have articles on what combos work best and advise you on problems that they have ran into. Next call the companies and talk to the experts, a good company will not steer you in the wrong direction. Buy products from companies that have their reputation on the line everytime they sale an item. I apologize for the long post....I have too much time on my hands and love talking about Mustangs!!