5.0 won't start
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Old September 1st, 2005, 11:08 AM   #1
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5.0 won't start


I have a 1989 Mustang Gt that I've been working on for awhile now. I had it running so the battery could charge up a little and all of the sudden it just shut off. It was running for about 15 minutes. The problem is now I can't start it. It cranks but it doesn't sound like it's igniting. I checked for spark, fuel pressure, and I made sure the battery was fully charged and I just kept getting nothing. Then I checked to make sure that the injectors were firing with a noid light and they were. Then I checked the timing by going TDC and it was at 22 degrees... I have no idea how it ran like that but it did. SO I retarded it back to stock which is 10 I think (can't remember) and it started to ignite but it would always shut off. So then I tried advancing the timing to 13 and all I got was a sputter. I put in 1.5 gallons of 104 octane to up the octane in the tank... I had 87 octane in there. So with the timing advanced and with higher octane all I got was a sputter again. This can't be the computer since it's getting spark. My best guess is that it's somehow the timing even though I already checked it. Any ideas would be helpful.
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Old September 1st, 2005, 12:00 PM   #2
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It def sounds like timing. Maybe your Ignition timing Moduale?
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Old September 1st, 2005, 12:17 PM   #3
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Fuel, fire, & Compression. Thats all it takes to start it.

Fuel - check the injectors to make sure their actually spraying fuel. Pull one of them out of the intake leaving it plugged in and see if it mists fuel out. Wear eye protection! This checks to ensure all fuel related components are working. If you find the problem to be fuel then start your way from the most likely, as in fuel pressure, no fuel at all, etc.

Fire - check to be sure your getting spark to through your plug wires. Stick a screwdriver in the plug boot and put it close to a grounded piece of metal on the car and watch for spark. Also, not only does the engine have to fire... it has to fire at the right time. Don't rely 100% on your balancer to tell you the correct timing, as the old ones often dry the dampening ring and the outer part of the balancer slips around the inner part - giving you false timing marks. Find TDC and make sure the timing pointer lines up with the "0" on the balancer.

Compression - if the above doesnt help you find your problem then do a compression test. This would eliminate possibilities of a jumped timing chain, damaged engine, etc.


If you think it may be an ignition module (what the harness plugs to on the distributer), most auto parts stores can run a test on it if you take it off and carry it up to them. Also, replacing them is inexpensive, usually under $20
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Old September 1st, 2005, 08:23 PM   #4
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I've checked everything except for the compression. But I don't think I blew a head gasket. I'll have someone come by to test it for me during next week probably.
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Old September 1st, 2005, 10:01 PM   #5
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are you sure it's getting a good hot spark? On a TFI system, you should be able to pull the coil wire off at the coil and crank the eng over and watch the spark jump like mad to the coil bracket. Also ck and make sure when the balancer is on TDC or slightly before that the distibutor rotor is facing the #1 plug wire. You might also try disconnecting the spout plug and cranking it over to see if it will start then, if so, module needs to be replaced
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Old September 2nd, 2005, 10:38 AM   #6
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Ok I got to ask...did you think if the car would not run on 91 it would start on 104? Just checking. I head gasket will not keep a car from starting, unless the cyclinder is filled with water. But yours is cranking so thats not it. A buddy of mine drove 40 miles blew his HG than ran 3 1/8 mile passes than drove it 50 miles home. Pic attached of what was left of the HG.

So to recap, the car was sitting there idleing for 15 minutes all by itself and suddenly died and won't start?
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Old September 2nd, 2005, 10:58 AM   #7
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poor compression can also be from a jumped timing chain among other things.

Like I said, all it takes is the right amount of fuel, spark at the right time, and compresssion.

PS - I resized your image 55 to not stretch the page out
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Old September 3rd, 2005, 04:22 PM   #8
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yep the car was just sitting there for about 15 minutes and it just shut off. And no I didn't think putting in 104 octane would make it run... I advanced the timing that's why I wanted to up the octane a little
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Old September 3rd, 2005, 05:11 PM   #9
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edit: n.m i read the post wrong
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Old September 3rd, 2005, 05:48 PM   #10
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Im with MD on this one, It sounds to me like the timing chain has jumoed a tooth or two. That would explain the poor compression, the 22 degree timing and the fact that it hits but wont run. It is also very possible considering the mileage on the motor. You can pull the right valve cover, set the motor on TDC then check the rockers on the #1 cylinder and the placement of the rotor button in the distributor. I would almost bet that everything doesnt line up and that you need a new timing set.
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Old October 23rd, 2005, 11:10 PM   #11
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i dont want to sound like an complete moron but i had the same problem and it turns out it was my alternator... i mean u guess are all talking about compression and shit, and i dont know anything about that but like i said i once had a problem where my car was driving down the road i pulled off to get gas and the car cut off. i tryed to start it, it would start to crank but never would turn over, so i figured battery, well i called a friend to jump me and soon as we got the car started we went to disconnect the jumper cables and the car dyed again, i replaced the alternator and it worked just fine after, that, but like i said im new to the working on my own car world, and i dont know what all you have done to it.

admin can delete this if im completely off...
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Old October 24th, 2005, 10:49 AM   #12
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No need to delete. Any input is good input. In your case the car wouldnt even crank on its own power. More than likely, the reason it died is b/c most cmputer controled vehicles have a 9 volt failsafe built into the ECU, what this does is completely kills the car if the voltage drops below 9 volts. This is to keep the alternator from frying itself or even start an electrical fire from trying to overcharge a dead battery.

I would actually like to see an update on this b/c Im curious to know what the problem is/was and what was done to fix it.
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Old October 24th, 2005, 10:13 PM   #13
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yea me too
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Old October 24th, 2005, 10:17 PM   #14
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I spoke with him via PM and he said that as of right now, Its still not fixed but hes got a timing set and is going to change it soon and let us know ow it went.
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Old October 25th, 2005, 12:17 PM   #15
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cool, now back to my problem
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Old April 23rd, 2007, 12:43 AM   #16
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Hey, So my 1988 Ford Mustang Convertible. Did the same thing. I thought it was the timing. But as it turned out, it was the fuel, start button in the trunk. Try it.
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