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post #1 of 22 Old March 23rd, 2012, 10:18 PM Thread Starter
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e-fan wiring options

ok so i just got my self a brand new 3 core all alluminum radiator. came with two 10" 13amp puller fans. previously, i was running a 16" 8amp fan on a 25amp thermostat relay kit which was ground switched, not power like normal.

soo now, i have 3 fans, 34amps, and a 25amp relay. BUT i have a second 25amp relay laying around. these are standard bosch type relays with wiring like so:

obviously instead of a bilge pump as in the image, it would power the fans..i stole this image from google...

now i could put one 13amp and one 8amp on a single relay. then put the remaining 13 amp on the second relay somehow switched by the same thermostat signal (i imagine i could just splice into the signal wire). but im worried that power spikes when they first come on will blow the fuse or relay.
HOWEVER, the preferred method would be to somehow conjoin the relays in a manner that they become a single 50amp relay...in which case, a power spike would have plenty of room before it would blow a circuit.

ideas?

306 w/ 8.9:1
ON3 70mm turbo kit - 9#'s boost
arp chromoly studs
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3.73 - tremec 3550 - zoom hp kevlar clutch
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delete egr-smog-cats-a/c-foglights
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post #2 of 22 Old March 23rd, 2012, 10:51 PM
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So you want to run all three fans? Don't use that drawing for whatever that is, with 87A to ground, it won't work with what you want.

Use one relay from your original setup to turn on your original fans and to trigger the second relay which can power the third fan through its own fused power line.

Basically, the 12v line that runs to your existing fans probably connected to 30 on your existing relay, tap into it and attach it to 86 on your other relay, 85 to ground. 87 to a fused source capable of handling your new fans, and 30 to the new fan. When your first relay triggers to turn on the fans, it will also turn on the second relay and turn on that fan. Each fan will have its own power supply and fuse and you will be safe. A better method would be to take the trigger for your first existing relay (probably) pin 86 and also run it to pin 86 on the new relay and wire the second setup the same way as the first with each fan having its own separate fused supply. With the second method, one of the relays can still fail and at least one of your fans will still work. I can try to draw something up..

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post #3 of 22 Old March 23rd, 2012, 10:57 PM Thread Starter
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I'm thinking I'll put the 16" on my intercooler. Then the two smaller on the radiator

306 w/ 8.9:1
ON3 70mm turbo kit - 9#'s boost
arp chromoly studs
47# FRPP - 255 walbro
3.73 - tremec 3550 - zoom hp kevlar clutch
msd 6a + blaster coil
lowered. sfc. HID
delete egr-smog-cats-a/c-foglights
battery reloc
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post #4 of 22 Old March 23rd, 2012, 11:07 PM
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Best method in my opinion. Hopefully your temperature trigger switch is capable to driving two relays. If not, only connect your sender to the top relay 86 and tap into 87 from the top relay and connect it to 86 on the bottom relay. For this application, the normally closed pin 87A on both relays is not needed.

Get these, they make working with these relays so much easier, they even have ganged units for multiple relays.



EDIT: I updated the picture.

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post #5 of 22 Old March 23rd, 2012, 11:11 PM
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Does your new fan have a fan shroud ?

I think 3 fans is really, really over kill... just my opnion though


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post #6 of 22 Old March 23rd, 2012, 11:12 PM Thread Starter
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would you suggest me simply running the intercooler fan all the time? Then I'd have a 25 amp relay for each of the other fans

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306 w/ 8.9:1
ON3 70mm turbo kit - 9#'s boost
arp chromoly studs
47# FRPP - 255 walbro
3.73 - tremec 3550 - zoom hp kevlar clutch
msd 6a + blaster coil
lowered. sfc. HID
delete egr-smog-cats-a/c-foglights
battery reloc
QuarterHorse, BE, EA
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post #7 of 22 Old March 23rd, 2012, 11:16 PM
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Is your intercooler in the front? You are only generating boost that needs to be cooled while you are moving, while moving, natural air flow will be much more than ANY fan can put through it. Don't bother with an intercooler fan at all.

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post #8 of 22 Old March 23rd, 2012, 11:20 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ryanw View Post
Does your new fan have a fan shroud ?

I think 3 fans is really, really over kill... just my opnion though
No they just have there individual shrouds.






Quote:
Originally Posted by nolife View Post
Is your intercooler in the front? You are only generating boost that needs to be cooled while you are moving, while moving, natural air flow will be much more than ANY fan can put through it. Don't bother with an intercooler fan at all.
Fair enough I'll just delete the 16"

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306 w/ 8.9:1
ON3 70mm turbo kit - 9#'s boost
arp chromoly studs
47# FRPP - 255 walbro
3.73 - tremec 3550 - zoom hp kevlar clutch
msd 6a + blaster coil
lowered. sfc. HID
delete egr-smog-cats-a/c-foglights
battery reloc
QuarterHorse, BE, EA
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post #9 of 22 Old March 23rd, 2012, 11:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ryanw View Post
Does your new fan have a fan shroud ?

I think 3 fans is really, really over kill... just my opnion though
^^^^^hate to be a buzz kill, but without a shroud i think you will still have proublems. i've been throu this before with a third gen maro, and you can keep putting little fans all over that three core rad till the cows come home. on a hot day in traffic your going to be stuck dude. you need to find a fan with a shroud or make one out of some sheet metal.
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post #10 of 22 Old March 24th, 2012, 02:07 AM
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I think your old 16 inch fan will cool you just fine all by its self if you use a fan shroud with it.


DART 331ci stroker, AFR 185 heads,
Trick Flow R intake,
Accufab 70mm tb, 75mm pro m Maf, 30lb injectors,
jba headers, 2 1/2" x pipe
flowmaster super 10 mufflers,
255 fuel pump,
3:27 gears
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post #11 of 22 Old March 24th, 2012, 08:14 AM Thread Starter
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I'm trying to think how I could make one

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306 w/ 8.9:1
ON3 70mm turbo kit - 9#'s boost
arp chromoly studs
47# FRPP - 255 walbro
3.73 - tremec 3550 - zoom hp kevlar clutch
msd 6a + blaster coil
lowered. sfc. HID
delete egr-smog-cats-a/c-foglights
battery reloc
QuarterHorse, BE, EA
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post #12 of 22 Old March 24th, 2012, 01:25 PM Thread Starter
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ok plans have begun to fab up an aluminum shroud to cover the radiator and fit with all the extra turbo piping i have. using the 2 10" fans

Edit: also I set up the second relay to be triggered from the first one's power. Therefor I don't have to worry about the thermostat not being able to trigger two relays

306 w/ 8.9:1
ON3 70mm turbo kit - 9#'s boost
arp chromoly studs
47# FRPP - 255 walbro
3.73 - tremec 3550 - zoom hp kevlar clutch
msd 6a + blaster coil
lowered. sfc. HID
delete egr-smog-cats-a/c-foglights
battery reloc
QuarterHorse, BE, EA

Last edited by VM0824; March 24th, 2012 at 04:58 PM.
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post #13 of 22 Old March 25th, 2012, 09:37 AM
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this is a good example of what you need
StangNet 'Built to Cruise' Project - StangNet
look at the pic of the fan setup
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post #14 of 22 Old March 25th, 2012, 01:35 PM Thread Starter
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i made a cardboard model the other day of a shroud. 24" across. 16.5" high. 2" deep on the bottom. 2 3/8" deep on top. That'll squeeze the two fans in there so that one fan is higher than the other (since theres turbo piping in the way). but it'll cover the whole radiator.

306 w/ 8.9:1
ON3 70mm turbo kit - 9#'s boost
arp chromoly studs
47# FRPP - 255 walbro
3.73 - tremec 3550 - zoom hp kevlar clutch
msd 6a + blaster coil
lowered. sfc. HID
delete egr-smog-cats-a/c-foglights
battery reloc
QuarterHorse, BE, EA
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post #15 of 22 Old March 25th, 2012, 01:39 PM
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Nice. Take pics as you make it


DART 331ci stroker, AFR 185 heads,
Trick Flow R intake,
Accufab 70mm tb, 75mm pro m Maf, 30lb injectors,
jba headers, 2 1/2" x pipe
flowmaster super 10 mufflers,
255 fuel pump,
3:27 gears
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post #16 of 22 Old March 25th, 2012, 02:21 PM Thread Starter
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will definitely do.

306 w/ 8.9:1
ON3 70mm turbo kit - 9#'s boost
arp chromoly studs
47# FRPP - 255 walbro
3.73 - tremec 3550 - zoom hp kevlar clutch
msd 6a + blaster coil
lowered. sfc. HID
delete egr-smog-cats-a/c-foglights
battery reloc
QuarterHorse, BE, EA
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post #17 of 22 Old April 1st, 2012, 07:39 PM Thread Starter
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still gotta do some wiring, started to rain here so i called it a day. but here it is.

basic aluminum sheet, cut and corners welded to the needed measurements


mating it to the new radiator


traced outside, then cut half inch inside that mark plus extra for mounting points. had to position the fans this way to fit with turbo piping


rough cut and paint


assembled


installed


306 w/ 8.9:1
ON3 70mm turbo kit - 9#'s boost
arp chromoly studs
47# FRPP - 255 walbro
3.73 - tremec 3550 - zoom hp kevlar clutch
msd 6a + blaster coil
lowered. sfc. HID
delete egr-smog-cats-a/c-foglights
battery reloc
QuarterHorse, BE, EA
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post #18 of 22 Old April 1st, 2012, 07:49 PM
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Those fans say 80W and who knows if that's accurate but that is only a 6.6 amp draw, that seems very low. What kind of air flow do they make?

Shroud looks great.

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post #19 of 22 Old April 1st, 2012, 07:50 PM
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cool looks good. similar to my set up that i am working on wiring. except i flipped my fans over. wires on the bottom so i dont have to look at them. looks like you can just flop your wires down if you want though. nice jobbb.
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post #20 of 22 Old April 1st, 2012, 08:01 PM Thread Starter
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i purposely put them on top for ease of disconnect in case i need to take it off. i mean im pretty bad at making things look good, just functional lol. and yea idk where 80watts came from, the company said they're 13 amps which would be like twice that wattage. and i dont remember the cfm i just remember that the two of them push more air than the 16" i had in there.

306 w/ 8.9:1
ON3 70mm turbo kit - 9#'s boost
arp chromoly studs
47# FRPP - 255 walbro
3.73 - tremec 3550 - zoom hp kevlar clutch
msd 6a + blaster coil
lowered. sfc. HID
delete egr-smog-cats-a/c-foglights
battery reloc
QuarterHorse, BE, EA
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