Kind of a build thread. Basically some pics of how it's got to where it's at, and I'll do a better job of keeping up on where it's going. Background is that after the purchase of my top end parts, my wife said I had too much money into my car not to do 'anything' with it. I warned her that racing is expensive, lol. I started hanging out with my chassis guy after he backhalved and caged my sister's boyfriend's car and I got to know him better. Him and a bunch of the other guys I met have some seriously fast stuff, so I decided not to half ass it and look dumb. So in no particular order:
*I will try to update this list as things are aquired*
306, forged flat tops
TF 185 cnc heads
TF Track Heat intake
TFX nitrous plate kit by Nitrous Express
TF Stage 2 cam
TF 1.6 RR
75mm Accufab TB
97mm Abaco MAF meter
3.5" cold air kit made out of two fenderwell elbows from two seperate kits.
BBK fuel pressure regulator
30lb injectors
MAC 1 5/8 Longtubes
MAC 2 1/2 Prochamber
MAC 2 1/2 catback kit (that may not stay since I can't run tailpipes anymore)
March Power and Amp series underdrive pulleys
150 amp 1 wire alternator
Aaron Price alternator bracket
Standard rotation water pump w/ ribbed pulley
MSD Distributor
MSD Digital 6
MSD Coil
MDS Wires
Innovate MTX-L wideband
Maximum Motorsports full length subframe connectors
Wild Rides Torque box reinforcements
Autofab Race Cars back half coil over kit with QA1 Double adjustable shocks (Please mention me if you order anything )
UPR Anti roll bar kit
UPR sperical bushings
UPR double adjustable upper control arms
UPR single adjustable lower control arms
Wolfe Racecraft Chrome Moly 10pt. 8.50 cage
Wolfe Racecraft mini tub kit
Team Z front end kit with Strange 12 way coil over struts.
Florida 5.0 gauge cluster.
Aluminum radiator w/ Flexalite Extreme fan.
Delete Smog, A/C, Power Steering.
Weld Draglites Big and littles with 275/60/15 DR's
Started removing things to lighten the car up while preparing for the cage install
Some things that aren't going to return. The HVAC assembly with the leaky heater core, and the non tilt steering column.
Started cleaning the floors up, removing all sound deadoner and any surface rust.
Bought the Florida 5.0 gauge cluster so I keep better tabs on the motor and pillar mount A/F gauge and Nitrous pressure gauge, but gauges will have to get remounted on cage A pillar tube now instead
My switch panel that will reside in the ashtray location for the nitrous stuff
Fabbed a temporary bracket to locate the nitrous solenoids for now
Decided to remove all excess wiring of the car and rewire alternator and 94/95 style starter with built in solenoid, so wire tuck and rewire of the whole car was in order. Foglight switch now activates my linelock, and rear defrost switch latches the relay for my two step when the clutch pedal is pressed in. Releases two step on dropping the clutch.
When I redid the injector harness, I added the necessary wires for my WOT switch and fuel pressure cut off for the nitrous
Relocated the egr simulator down by the computer, and the spout connector for the timing and test port for the ecm are now accessible from behind the glovebox door.
Here's the alternator bracket by Aaron price
And the WildRides battle boxes that are next on the list
*I will try to update this list as things are aquired*
306, forged flat tops
TF 185 cnc heads
TF Track Heat intake
TFX nitrous plate kit by Nitrous Express
TF Stage 2 cam
TF 1.6 RR
75mm Accufab TB
97mm Abaco MAF meter
3.5" cold air kit made out of two fenderwell elbows from two seperate kits.
BBK fuel pressure regulator
30lb injectors
MAC 1 5/8 Longtubes
MAC 2 1/2 Prochamber
MAC 2 1/2 catback kit (that may not stay since I can't run tailpipes anymore)
March Power and Amp series underdrive pulleys
150 amp 1 wire alternator
Aaron Price alternator bracket
Standard rotation water pump w/ ribbed pulley
MSD Distributor
MSD Digital 6
MSD Coil
MDS Wires
Innovate MTX-L wideband
Maximum Motorsports full length subframe connectors
Wild Rides Torque box reinforcements
Autofab Race Cars back half coil over kit with QA1 Double adjustable shocks (Please mention me if you order anything )
UPR Anti roll bar kit
UPR sperical bushings
UPR double adjustable upper control arms
UPR single adjustable lower control arms
Wolfe Racecraft Chrome Moly 10pt. 8.50 cage
Wolfe Racecraft mini tub kit
Team Z front end kit with Strange 12 way coil over struts.
Florida 5.0 gauge cluster.
Aluminum radiator w/ Flexalite Extreme fan.
Delete Smog, A/C, Power Steering.
Weld Draglites Big and littles with 275/60/15 DR's
Started removing things to lighten the car up while preparing for the cage install
Some things that aren't going to return. The HVAC assembly with the leaky heater core, and the non tilt steering column.
Started cleaning the floors up, removing all sound deadoner and any surface rust.
Bought the Florida 5.0 gauge cluster so I keep better tabs on the motor and pillar mount A/F gauge and Nitrous pressure gauge, but gauges will have to get remounted on cage A pillar tube now instead
My switch panel that will reside in the ashtray location for the nitrous stuff
Fabbed a temporary bracket to locate the nitrous solenoids for now
Decided to remove all excess wiring of the car and rewire alternator and 94/95 style starter with built in solenoid, so wire tuck and rewire of the whole car was in order. Foglight switch now activates my linelock, and rear defrost switch latches the relay for my two step when the clutch pedal is pressed in. Releases two step on dropping the clutch.
When I redid the injector harness, I added the necessary wires for my WOT switch and fuel pressure cut off for the nitrous
Relocated the egr simulator down by the computer, and the spout connector for the timing and test port for the ecm are now accessible from behind the glovebox door.
Here's the alternator bracket by Aaron price
And the WildRides battle boxes that are next on the list