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Old May 11th, 2012, 03:51 AM   #1
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carb to efi


i have a 95 mustang gt that i want to switch from carb to efi i need a list of all the parts ill need thanks
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Old May 11th, 2012, 10:06 AM   #2
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I'm not 100% on all of these, but I'm sure hpjunkie or someone else will chime in.

Intake manifold
Air intake
MAF
Throttle body
Computer
injectors
throttle cable
distributor
fuel pump
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Old May 11th, 2012, 10:10 AM   #3
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With a '95 Mustang, I'd first check how many of the EFI specific parts the previous owner threw out. Is the OEM wiring harness still there? Is he using a regulator to bump the EFI fuel pump down to carb pressures and you can just put back in a stock EFI regulator? Etc.
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Old May 11th, 2012, 10:17 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by Matt Cramer View Post
With a '95 Mustang, I'd first check how many of the EFI specific parts the previous owner threw out. Is the OEM wiring harness still there? Is he using a regulator to bump the EFI fuel pump down to carb pressures and you can just put back in a stock EFI regulator? Etc.
I knew I was missing a few things....Wiring harness is another thing you'll need.
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Old May 11th, 2012, 11:23 AM   #5
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Like the rest stated, you'll have to inventory what's still on the car & go from there. If the orignal fuel tank & lines are missing, you might have to check out some salvage yards for that stuff. If the wiring & computer is missing, you might want to check into a stand alone rather than trying to find OE stuff.

I'm in the middle of planning stages of EFI on my 82 Capri and I'm going with a Mega Squirt II system on that.
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Old May 11th, 2012, 11:51 AM   #6
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[COLOR="SeaGreen"][COLOR="Blue"]Here is a good idea of whats needed.. long post so watch out.. Also have step by step to install if you need them to...This is just in general, may need dif parts or more parts depending on computer or motor you have..But hope this helps...


The EFI setup uses 3 harnesses, the main harness, injector harness, and o2 harness.

*If you are converting an older mustang (79-85) the fuel system will need a couple extra items that I will cover also.

*Speed density setups contain the same parts except for the MAF, BAP, computer and the harnesses are different.

Parts needed:
Computer - A9L, A9P, or A9M- all will work for a manual trans but A9P and A9M are auto specific.
Main Harness - This harness runs from the computer through the firewall and branches out to bother fender wells and the back of the motor. On some 91-93 models this also contains the fuel pump relay.
Injector Harness - This connects to the main harness at the salt and pepper shakers (2 connectors, black and white, 10 pin connectors)
o2 Harness - This connects to the main harness on the passenger side and runs under the motor to the o2 sensors.
EEC Relay - This relay is located in the passenger kick panel with the computer.
Fuel Pump Relay - Controls the fuel pump. Most are located under the driver seat connected to the cars body harness but some 91-93 models are located at the driver side fender apron.
A/C WOT Relay - Cuts power to the A/C clutch at WOT. Located at the driver fender apron with the fuel pump relay.
EFI Gas Tank - 79-85 model tanks are different than 86-93. The older models only have one hole for the pick up and sending unit because they are one piece. The 87+ models have 2 holes, one for the fuel pump/pickup and the other is for the sending unit. Be sure to use new locking rings and gaskets for them and a new filler neck grommet.
Fuel Pump - Depending on your application you can either use a stock pump or purchase and aftermarket one. I recommend going ahead and upgrading while you are there. Be sure to pick up a fuel pump screen/filter if your kit or used pump doesn't have one. You will obviously also need the fuel pump pick up and bracket that the pump is attached to.
Gas Tank Sending Unit - 87-93 uses the same sending unit
Fuel Vapor Valve - This is located at the top of the gas tank. It channels the vapor from the tank to the front of the car to the charcoal canister. This helps lower emissions by having the vapor fed through the vacuum lines into the intake with the purge solenoid is activated by the computer.
EFI Body Fuel Lines - You have the soft lines that go from the tank to the fuel filter and hard line. Then you will need the hard lines that are riveted to the body. If you want you can also purchase aftermarket fuel lines/ kits from most performance websites such as summit or jegs.
Fuel Filter and Bracket - 87-93 fuel filter mounts in front of the gas tank.
Front Fuel Lines - At the passenger side frame rail there are also a set of hard fuel lines that are the connection between the body and the fuel rails.
Fuel Rail - Bolts to the lower intake and feeds the injectors.
Fuel Pressure Regulator - Bolts to the fuel rail on the rear, passenger side.
Fuel Injectors - Your build will determine what size injectors you will need. If you get used ones be sure to replace the o-rings and inspect them closely. They can be take apart and cleaned to a point.
Upper and Lower Intake - There are many brands and types. Like most your build determines what you will need. The lower intake also houses the coolant cross over tube, injectors, fuel rail, thermostat and housing, ACT sensor and the PCV valve. The upper intake is what feeds all the vacuum sources on the motor.
EGR Spacer - This bolts between the throttle body and the upper intake. It feeds exhaust gases that are coming through ports in the heads and intake. These gases are fed through the EGR spacer into the EGR valve (EVP sensor). There are also coolant passages that run through the spacer to keep it cool at the same time. This part is fed coolant from the crossover tube and then back into the lower intake.
Throttle Body - This is what regulates the air going into the motor via the throttle cable. The TPS sensor and the IAC motor bolt onto the throttle body.
CAI or Stock Intake Tubing - This is what feeds the air into the motor. The MAF meter is located in between the tubing and the air filter.
MAF Meter - This is what monitors how much air is being taken into the motor. The signal from the sensor is sent to the computer and helps adjust A/F ratios. Size and brand again are determined by your build. Be sure to do your research first.
ECT Sensor - The engine coolant temp sensor is located at the top of the coolant crossover tube. This is the coolant sensor that gives signals to the computer to help control A/F ratios.
Coolant Temp Sending Unit - This is located at the driver side front of the lower intake. It has a one wire connector that is in the injector harness. This is what controls the temp gauge.
Coolant Crossover Tube - This tube screws into the lower intake and holds the ECT sensor. This is what feeds coolant to the heater core so you can have heat in the car. The coolant is ran from the lower intake and the bottom post on the water pump.
TPS Sensor - Throttle position sensor. It tells the computer how far open the throttle is. Located at the top of the throttle body.
IAC Motor - Idle air control motor. Helps control the engines idle RPM by opening and closing allowing air to bypass the throttle blade. Located at the front of the throttle body.
BAP Sensor - Barometric Air Pressure sensor. Also known as the MAP sensor but they are not the same. Reads the atmospheric air pressure for the computer to help control the A/F ratios and timing. A key part of the mass air setup. Located on the firewall on the driver side.
ACT Sensor - Air Charge Temp sensor. Reads the temperature of the air being fed into the motor. Located in the lower intake at the front driver side.
o2 Sensors - Oxygen sensors. Located in the midpipe of the exhaust about 6 inches from the collector connections.
EFI Distributor - The distributor sends the spark from the coil to the spark pugs. It also has the TFI module mounted on the front of the distributor. It also has the PIP sensor located inside. Depending on what cam you are running you need to be sure to run the correct gear on the distributor to not destroy parts. Most roller cams are compatible with the stock dizzy gear so its not that big of an issue, just double check to be sure.
Coil - There are many different coils in the aftermarket but a stock EFI coil works great. Be sure to get the bracket that goes with it unless you are going to make your own like I did.
Fuel Pump Block Off - Carb setups that use a mechanical pumps need to have a block off plate bolted on. You can also just switch out the timing cover but swapping them is not needed.
Vacuum Tree - The stock EFI vacuum tree is located on the firewall above the brake booster. It splits the source vac to distribute it to the brake booster, HVAC, ect...
Throttle Cable/Bracket - The EFI cable is longer than the carb cable because it needs to reach the other side of the motor. The bracket bolts onto the EGR spacer.
Vacuum Lines - There are a small assortment of sizes and lengths. There are a couple of premolded lines that you will need to purchase if the parts don't come with them.
Heater Core Lines - The hoses for the heater core are premolded hoses that will need to be purchased. If you are not running a heater core you can loop the cross over tube into itself for remove it completely with some fittings.
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Old May 11th, 2012, 02:37 PM   #7
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atleast some ones making a good decision..unlike all the other ones how do i convert efi to carb threads KUDOS bud
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Old May 11th, 2012, 03:53 PM   #8
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Im not sure if this info im giving you 100% true for your year car, but if you use and auto computer then you need an o2 sensor harness from an automatic. Its the same in reverse. If you have a manual computer then you need an o2 sensor harness from a manual. If you mix them up, one of two things will happen. One, every thing will run okay but you wont be able to pull codes from the diagnostic port. Or two, youll burn up the computer.

The harnesses look the same but the pin out is different. On one harness, one of the wires is a signal return and on the other harness that same wire is a ground. So you can see how that would mess things up. But again im not sure if thats info holds up with the 94-95 mustangs, lets just hope that your computer and harnesses are still there.
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Old May 11th, 2012, 05:28 PM   #9
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^^I've also read the same thing!
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Old May 11th, 2012, 06:08 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by tyler97 View Post
atleast some ones making a good decision..unlike all the other ones how do i convert efi to carb threads KUDOS bud
Converting to carb is almost as bad as cloning what someone doesn't have... Good point
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Old May 11th, 2012, 06:10 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by tyler97 View Post
atleast some ones making a good decision..unlike all the other ones how do i convert efi to carb threads KUDOS bud
Sometimes it's easier to swap the efi to a carb setup when the previous owner has butchered the harness and or cobbled together some bad or ill fitting efi parts. If you've ever driven a properly dialed in carbed car then you'd know that it behaves just like a fuel injected car.
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Old May 11th, 2012, 06:24 PM   #12
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This is a good read, if you have the time... its about the o2 sensor harness, that i was talking about
http://forums.corral.net/forums/gene...rences.htmlhis
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Old May 12th, 2012, 08:32 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by 86_Notch View Post
Sometimes it's easier to swap the efi to a carb setup when the previous owner has butchered the harness and or cobbled together some bad or ill fitting efi parts. If you've ever driven a properly dialed in carbed car then you'd know that it behaves just like a fuel injected car.
This times 10

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Old May 13th, 2012, 12:30 AM   #14
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I understand completely but theres people that have stock cars that works efi harness is there.. and they spend the money and put a 650 on a perfectly good efi setup if you understand what im saying....but if its a race car or you are good at tuning carbs which i am not.. then im not bashing you one bit..sorry if you thought i was bashing
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