[Mustang8719]

I am Converting a Non-Ho engine to a Ho engine.

Quiestion is How much of a Difference is there between the Stock SD cam Compaired to the Mass Flow Cam?

If I can only get a Mass Flow Cam will it work or not.

I am Lost when it comes to Cams.

I need to do alot of reading to learn about Cams.

Thanks for Any quiestions.

[89lxbill]

Very little difference. If memory serves me, it was like 1/2* duration difference. Really depends on the year. The 89 was the most aggressive (if you want to call it that). That is assuming you are talking about the Mustang SD cam. If you have a Non-HO cam, the HO has .445 lift the non HO has less that .4 and I believe the HO has 210* duration@.050 and the non is 198*. Either cam will work with SD or MAF. Some say you can run a E303 with SD, but idle quality is terrible.

[vfast]

does the non ho have 19# injectors? orange ones

[Mustang8719]

Originally Posted by vfast does the non ho have 19# injectors? orange ones

I transfered the injectors from my Ho-Engine when I put the engine in the car.

I just swapped the entire intake.

[IcantDo55]

Check this out. It come from www.coolcats.net Its a cougar site that rum by a friend named Eric that has some great info on non-HO to HO conversions because T-birds and Cougars only got Non-HO motors.


http://www.coolcats.net/tech/advance...onversion.html

advanced info: standard-to-high output 5.0 conversion

For All 1986-88 V8 Cougars and Thunderbirds

If your 5.0 is in need of a power infusion, this is the place for you. Using the tips in this section you can convert your existing motor, without removing it from the car, into the same general HO 5.0 used in the Mustangs from 1986-95. Keep in mind a few things:

* This section assumes that you will be using STOCK Ford or Mustang parts; for any aftermarket parts, please refer to the message boards for more information.
* It is also being assumed that you will keep your stock speed density setup. For mass air, see the Mass Air Conversion section.
* To do the full HO/225hp conversion, you MUST have all of the parts below before you can start.
* You must also convert to dual exhaust at the same time you do the HO conversion. This is because the HO motor requires freer breathing.

This is a project that, for most people, will take about one weekend. Once you've assembled all the components for the HO conversion you can proceed using the guidelines below.

Requirements for EFI cars:

* Fuel Injection - speed density
* E7TE casting heads - (1987-up Mustang 5.0, Ford F-150 5.0)
* HO-specific camshaft
* HO Upper intake manifold (optional)
* HO Throttle Body (optional)
* Stock Mustang HO 5.0 Computer
* Stock 19 lb/hr fuel injectors (Mustang)
* New MAP sensor
* New EVP/EGR sensor
* PROCEDURE & NOTES


Fuel Injection / COST: $ zip
The model year 1985 was the first for the "roller" block in the Mustang 5.0, meaning roller lifters and significantly reduced wear on the cam. What this means is: more power, less friction, less engine wear, outstanding durability---all good stuff. The 1985 Cougars have CFI (central fuel injection), however, which isn't very good for fuel efficiency or making more power. In 1986, the Cougar received the same roller lifters and SEFI setup as the Mustang, but with different computers and slightly different cylinder heads and camshafts (explaining the difference in horsepower in the '86 Cougar's 150 vs. the '86 Mustang's 200). The stock fuel rail, fuel pressure regulator, and lower intake manifold are all retained. Sorry all you 1985 5.0 owners---you'll have to fully convert to roller lifters AND SEFI (using 1986-up parts) before you can make any mods.


Cylinder Heads / COST: ~$200
The stock 1986 heads are, to say the least, very restrictive. Narrow inlets and "high swirl" exhaust ports add to fuel economy, but at the expense of good power. These heads were used on the '86-'88 Cougar/Thunderbird, the '86-'91 Crown Victoria/Grand Marquis, and the '86 Mustang GT. In '87, the Mustang 5.0 engine received the F-150 truck heads (a.k.a. the E7TE-AA castings), which added 15hp; the Cougars still had the restrictive heads through 1988. This is the most obvious point to start. You can find decent heads in a junkyard, at a swap meet, or online auctions or message boards. Just make sure the heads are from an '87-'95 Mustang 5.0. Aftermarket heads, such as the GT-40 and Trick Flow among many others, can also be used, according to your budget. By the way, you can put these heads on stock non-HO motors (without converting to HO) just as well. If you cannot find E7's, it's perfectly okay to use a slightly older Ford 5.0 head (E3, E4, etc.).


Stock HO Camshaft / COST: ~$50
In order to work with the Mustang computer and the new heads, you must also get a stock '87-'93 Mustang camshaft. If you happen upon part numbers for stock Mustang HO 5.0 cams, you'll notice that they are different; this is because the '87-'88 Mustangs used the speed density setup, while the '89-up cars used mass air flow. Also, Ford re-ground cams almost every year for a little better performance and fuel economy. I have used a '92 HO cam with an '87 Mustang GT computer with no difficulties. Idle was very smooth, and top end is greatly increased over stock. Generally you can use any 1987-95 HO cam with the speed density computer with great resuls. If you're not too sure, stick with the '87-'88 grind. I'm sure there's lots of Mustang owners out there that would just love to get rid of the stock cam they have lying around (because they put an aftermarket one in)---perhaps you can wrestle it away from them. One note of caution: since we have flat-top pistons from the factory, anything more potent than the stock HO camshaft will result in serious piston-to-valve clearance problems and/or driveability problems. By using the stock HO cam, your firing order will be different from your stock one. See notes below for more info on this.


HO Upper Intake Manifold (optional) / COST: ~40
The HO upper intake is optional because, although there is a minor difference in casting between the non-HO and HO plenums, the difference is a few horsepower. The stock Mustang upper (as well as the Mark VII HO upper) has the letters "HO" stamped under the removable top plate. If you decide to go with this intake, you should install the matching EGR plate, EGR valve, and throttle body from the Mustang as well; this will give you maximum airflow performance. You can still use your stock upper if you like, but you'll definitely get better airflow with the HO unit. This is a common swap since everything works beautifully from a Mustang. By the way, the non-HO and HO lower intake manifolds are all the same. Your call here; if you can get the HO set-up, do it. If you can't find one or cannot afford one, then you can at least still use your stock piece.


HO Throttle Body (optional) / COST: $~50+
The stock Cougar/Thunderbird throttle body is a rather restrictive 50mm. The stock Mustang throttle body is better at 60mm. At swap meets, the HO throttle body, EGR plate, and intake manifolds with 19 lb/hr fuel injectors are commonly sold as a unit, so if you're planning on buying the HO intake, then you may just luck out and get the throttle body piggybacked with it. Your stock one will work if you can't get the bigger one, but your car may bog down slightly upon acceleration due to restricted airflow. If you're shopping new, a 65mm aftermarket unit will still work with the stock speed density computer and give you much improved airflow. Anything over a 65mm throttle body on a stock motor will decrease low-end torque and actually bog down the motor with too much air. Also, the HO upper has a 67mm bore; a 70mm throttle body will create turbulence because of this. The bigger units (70mm+) should be limited to severely modified motors and larger-bore upper intakes. Also, be sure to buy a throttle body made for 1987-up Mustangs--the 1986 TB's were unique. And remember to get a throttle position sensor (TPS) to match the new throttle body, as your stock one will not work on it.


Computer / COST: ~50+
Here's the brains of it all---the STOCK Mustang 5.0 computer. You should be able to find one at a salvage yard for a reasonable price. BEWARE OF SWAP MEETS, however, for with the computer, you never know what you'll get. The computer will have a part number listed on the harness terminal, and IT SHOULD READ AS FOLLOWS:

E7SF-12A650-A1B (manual transmission) or E7SF-12A650-B1A (automatic transmission)

The last three (or two) letters and numbers may be a little different; there are just way too many part numbers for Ford computers. But, if you're in the neighborhood of either part number above, you should be fine. "E7SF" defines the '87 Mustang with SFI (sequential electronic fuel injection). The "12A650" is the same number for all Ford computers; the last two or three letters/numbers denote the transmission type as well as options (and who knows what else!) By the way, it is acceptable to use a manual transmission computer in an automatic car (but you cannot do the reverse). The timing curve and sensor adjustments are a little more responsive with a manual computer, giving you better throttle response and slightly improved 0-60 times.

For more information about matching up computers with engines and model years, visit this site:
www.fordfuelinjection.com/catchcodes.html


Stock 19 lb/hr fuel injectors -Mustang / COST: ~$50
Your stock fuel injectors (1986-88 non-HO 5.0) are 14 lb/hr and are grey in color. The Mustang computer is set up for 19 lb/hr (orange or tan color). So if you mix the 19 lb/hr computer with 14 lb/hr injectors, you get a bad fuel starvation problem and driveability woes. Trust me. You'll need to acquire 19 lb/hr injectors for this conversion. Good news is, they're fairly plentiful and usually very cheap. Just ask any Mustang guy that's switched over to 24 lb/hr; he may give you the old 19 lb ones. If you get a complete upper and lower intake set with injectors and throttle body at a swap meet, you're all set. Or, check with PPI---they have stock take out sets real cheap. In general, fuel injectors are extremely reliable and usually do not malfunction (unless severely clogged), so if you get a good deal on a set, chances are you'll actually be getting a good deal.


MAP Sensor / COST: ~$60
The MAP sensor hangs on the firewall, just above and to the right of the upper intake plenum (just to the left of the wiper motor). This reads the Manifold Absolute Pressure, and since you'll have a different amount of vacuum with the new camshaft, you must also replace this with the '87-'88 Mustang 5.0 variety. If you experience rough idle, bad starts, no starts, or general bad behavior from the engine, immediately replace this sensor. In talking with several others that have performed the HO conversion, it's been found that the MAP sensor makes a world of difference and therefore is MANDATORY for the conversion. Now there are tons of part numbers for this sensor. If you visit the local auto parts store, they'll generally list two sets of part numbers----one set (about 15 part numbers) for the cheaper MAP sensor, and one set (2 or 3) numbers for the more expensive sensor----guess which one works!! Mine is E7DF-9F479-A2A, and it worked fine. Incidentally, the 1989-up mass-air Mustangs have a BPS (Barometric Pressure Sensor) that is identical to the MAP sensor, save for the vacuum line. If you're ever going to switch over to mass air, you can use this existing sensor by simply capping the vacuum line and letting the MAP sensor open to the atmosphere.


EVP/EGR Sensors / COST: ~$100 (optional)
The EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculating) Valve works in conjunction with the EVP (EGR Valve Purge); they are conveniently packaged in one unit, just behind the throttle body on the upper intake manifold. They are emissions parts, so if you've guessed they won't be cheap, pat yourself on the back. Mine is part number E7PE-9H473-H2A. Don't forget to thoroughly clean the idle bypass valve with carb/choke cleaner, as this can also cause rough idle. Again, the stock EGR, if in good shape, may just work fine, so try it first.


PROCEDURE & NOTES

After all the parts are installed, you will need to reroute the spark plug wires. The firing order will now be 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8, using the HO pattern. You will NOT need to change any fuel injector wiring in your stock harness for this conversion, no matter what anyone else tells you!

Stock timing is still 10 degrees BTDC. Once the car is running correctly, you can get some added power if you bump up the timing to 12 or 14 degrees. Try 1-degree increments at a time since every engine responds differently, but back off if you hear any detonation (pinging). Also remember that if you do advance the timing, premium unleaded gasoline (93 octane or higher) is REQUIRED.

The stock pistons are flat-topped, not dished like the Mustang's. They should be fine for this stock-only conversion, but as always, be sure to check piston-to-valve clearance. Any other high-performance modification (i.e. E-303 camshaft) will REQUIRE performance dished pistons! Unfortunately, the removal and replacement of your stock pistons will have to be done with the engine outside of the car, on an engine stand. So please consider this if you're debating on putting better pistons in your motor. In general, if you think the 225-hp version of your engine will be adequate, then the stock pistons will work great. But if you plan on adding a supercharger, nitrous oxide, or even a healthier camshaft, you will have no choice but to pull the motor out to change the pistons.

You should be able to reuse your stock fuel pump if it's still good. A stock Mustang/Mark VII uses an 88lph (liter per hour) fuel pump; ours are 65lph stock. If you find a severe hesitation problem, or a lean condition, you will need to change your pump to at least an 88lph unit.

[Mustang8719]

Thank you Very much.
I have everything already except the CAM and waiting for it now.

I am already running the engine in the car now.
Just taking a little while to convert to roller.

I will finish reading everything and make sure I have exactly everything I need including gaskets.

Then one weekend tackle it.