engine bay clean up.
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Old September 29th, 2012, 11:50 PM   1 links from elsewhere to this Post. Click to view. #1
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engine bay clean up.


Just wondering if i can get some shots of clean engine bay's. Hoping to clean mine up soon. just not sure where to start
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Old September 29th, 2012, 11:57 PM   #2
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Get a plastic bag like from Walmart and cover your alternator... There is a video, let me find it for you...

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Old September 30th, 2012, 12:52 AM   #3
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Mine.













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Old September 30th, 2012, 01:11 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by ALMOST STOCK View Post
Mine.













Has this been in any mags?!?
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Old September 30th, 2012, 08:14 AM   #5
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yea, so i was gonna show a picture of my engine, then i saw Almost_stock, and decided not to. lmao. that's truly flawless.

there's a tech article up on moddedmustang about spraying simple green, running the engine with the hood closed as a steam cleaning method which works great. make sure don't make the simple green to concentrated or it'll leave chalky marks on your engine bay like how i have on mine. and rinse it very well!
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Old September 30th, 2012, 10:44 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by Spurred Snake View Post
Has this been in any mags?!?
Not yet, but it I did a photo shoot for Fox Mustang Magazine last month and I was told by the photographer they would email me as to which issue the car would be in.
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Old September 30th, 2012, 10:49 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by bennyjet846 View Post
yea, so i was gonna show a picture of my engine, then i saw Almost_stock, and decided not to. lmao. that's truly flawless.

there's a tech article up on moddedmustang about spraying simple green, running the engine with the hood closed as a steam cleaning method which works great. make sure don't make the simple green to concentrated or it'll leave chalky marks on your engine bay like how i have on mine. and rinse it very well!
Thank you for the complement.
I did what you see in those pictures 11 years ago other than adding the Tubular GT-40 6 years ago.
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Old September 30th, 2012, 10:59 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by btwn5.0 View Post
Just wondering if i can get some shots of clean engine bay's. Hoping to clean mine up soon. just not sure where to start
Not sure if your interested or not but I have a write-up and plenty of pictures on how to hide your wires, vacuum lines, and brake lines?
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Old September 30th, 2012, 03:18 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by ALMOST STOCK View Post
Not sure if your interested or not but I have a write-up and plenty of pictures on how to hide your wires, vacuum lines, and brake lines?
I'm interested I plan on cleaning my engine bay one day when I get motivation. How bad is it?
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Old September 30th, 2012, 04:04 PM   #10
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That looks awesome. The write up would be awesome.
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Old September 30th, 2012, 06:47 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by jeffwpayne View Post
I'm interested I plan on cleaning my engine bay one day when I get motivation. How bad is it?
It wasn't that hard to shave the engine bay, my best guess would be 24-32 hrs of actual work but you can throw on another 16-24 hrs of drying time for the fillers and primer, plus another 4 hrs of painting.


WELDING AND PAINTING THE ENGINE BAY

I'm not sure it’s the proper way to fill the holes in the engine bay but its what worked for me 10 yrs ago when I did mine and I know many more who have followed what I did simply because they asked me how I did mine.

Pull the engine.
Clean and degrease the entire engine bay.
Take a wire wheel on an electric drill and clean all the old paint off around near the hole you’re going to weld up. And since I was hiding my wires in the fenders I removed the splash shields which made it easier to trace the hole onto the new metal.

When I did my engine bay there were no pre-shaped inner fender like Scott Rod Fabrications has today. Scott Rod Fabrications Custom Aluminum Panels for Fox Body 79-93 Mustang

This is the method I used when I did my engine bay.

I bought some 20 gauge metal to make patch pieces with. Make the patch pieces just slightly smaller as the same diameter of the hole your weld up. Weld the patch piece into place. Weld and fill any hole larger than a dime in that manner (dime size and smaller hole you can weld closed by making a few passes to fill those small holes).

To make the patch piece for the holes I bought some 6” X 6” 18 ga metal and placed them on the backside of the fender and traced the hole onto the metal with a sharpie and the took a saber saw and cut the line out left by the sharpie which gave me that 1/16” all the way around to fill with weld between the new metal patch piece and the inner fender. I kept using what was left of the metal to do smaller hole until there was nothing left of that piece. I believe it took 4 pieces of the 6” X 6” metal to fill all the holes. For the frame rails front and rear I bought 2 pieces 24” x 4”.
I painted the underside of the frame rail with Red Oxide Primer before I welded them into place in hopes of stopping any rust since the frame rail is not somewhat closed off.

Grind down all the welds then use a body filler (I used all-metal not bondo) to filled in any low spots in the engine bay due to either warped fenders, welding or grinding, spot welds, or any screw holes. When using any body filler always try keeping it to a minimum thickness by following instruction on the can or label. You’ll need to fill the low and uneven spots probably 2 or 3 times before you have enough buildup to sand the body filler smooth and flat. I used a long board and 4” sanding block to make mine as smooth and flat as I possibly could.
I found that if you buy the sand paper sheets for the body filler from any Auto Supply paint store your time spent sanding will be cut in half versus getting sheets of wet-dri course sand paper from your local hardware store, but that’s just me.
At this time you’ll also need to scuff the entire engine bay with a medium scuffing pad, and then clean the engine bay of any dust by either air or tack cloth.

Next prime:
Once the primer is dry you’ll need to sand the entire engine bay with 360 grit wet-dri sandpaper. After that you’ll need to remove any primer dust from sanding by either air or a tack rag.
Next apply finishing putty such as (Evercoat Glaze Coat) to fill in any small pin holes that the body filler or primer did not fill in. Sand the finishing putty with 360 or 400 grit wet-dri sandpaper, at this time if you see and small pin holes or recessed areas that you may have missed earlier or that didn’t fill properly fill with the finishing putty one more time.
Remove any finishing putty sanding dust with air and while doing that making sure at this time that you have completely eliminated all dust and any debris that could fly up during painting process. Last and final time tack rag the whole engine bay out, You are now ready to apply basecoat/Clearcoat, or single stage paint, whichever you choose.
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Old September 30th, 2012, 06:58 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by btwn5.0 View Post
That looks awesome. The write up would be awesome.

Wire Hiding 101

Disconnect the battery; jack up which side of the car you want to work on (or both sides). Use jack stands or something similar to support the car. Remove the tire and then remove the plastic fender liner.
To remove your plastic outer wheel well liners there are just a few screws in the outer fender lip and 1 or 2 that hold the plastic liner in place under the bottom attaching it to the floor panel? There are also a couple of plastic plugs that need to be removed and thatís about it. Then take your hand and hit the plastic liner in an upward motion which should help release the liner, then just pull it out of your way.

Step One: The Basics
To remove your plastic outer wheel well liners there are just a few screws in the outer fender lip and 1 or 2 that hold the plastic liner in place under the bottom attaching it to the floor panel? There are also a couple of plastic plugs that need to be removed and thatís about it. Then take your hand and hit the plastic liner in an upward motion which should help release the liner, then just pull it out of your way. Some people have removed there fenders for easier access, in my case I didnít. Itís just that I didnít want to deal with re aligning of my fenders later is the reason I removed the plastic liner which would have to be removed any way if you remove your fenders. This way I was able to see and access the hole on the back of the Strut Towers to get the connectors and wire through. It also made it easier for me to tie wrap the harness up and out of the way, along with being able to put the solenoid as high as possible on the inside fender, keeping it as high and dry as possible.

Step Two: Wire Time
All the wires and the harness will fit through the back of the strut tower. You donít have to remove any wire from any of the connectors. All you need to do is unplug (pull apart) the connector or deal with individual wires that were individual to start with.
First mark both ends of any connector that youíre separating, it will make it easier when you start to put thing back together, a camera is also a big help when it comes time remembering how thing went. Most people seem to forget what wires went where when it comes to the solenoid/ starter relay wires just mark each wire and its location and it will make life easier later.
Next separate the two ends on the different connectors then run the largest connector through the Strut Tower first then followed by the next largest and so on. All the connectors will fit through the hole without having to enlarge the hole in the back of the Strut Tower. It may seem that not all the connectors and wires will fit in to the hole when you first try but with a little finesse everything will go through. It does help if you have someone help you feed the connector and wires through the hole while you pull them through but itís not necessary.
Now that you have all the wires and connector in the inner fender check where you want to put your solenoid/ starter relay (I found that the farther you go forward with the solenoid/ starter relay and related wires the easier it when you do the other harness such as the headlight harness) making sure all the wires will re attach to the solenoid install the solenoid and then just tie wrap the rest of the harness as high as possible. You will be able to see place on the upper fenders where you can run the tie wraps. Another reason for keeping the harness as high as possible is so when you so when you reinstall the plastic wheel liner they fit like they use to. You can also run your hood release cable through the back of the Strut Tower if you like. If you weld the holes up on the inner fenders, Iíd suggest not running your MAF wire harness through the hole in the Strut Tower. You wonít have enough wire to hook it back up without cutting and splicing. Just my $.02

Headlight harness: I also ran my head light and turn signal wire harness on the driverís side inner fender. The only thing you have to do with the light harness is to make a couple of holes for the ground wire. Just run the light harness in front of the radiator and under the radiator bracket.

Main Harness: As for the main harness that runs on top of the pinch weld at the fire wall, I found the easiest method to hide this harness was to remove all the old original plastic shielding (which measures almost 1-1/4) and snuggly rewrap the main harness with black electrical tape, which will then make the same main harness less than 7/8 in thickness which can easily be tucked under the pinch weld, basically being hid out of sight.
Side note; As long as you have the old plastic shielding off main harness which expose the wires to the passenger side and drivers side try pulling those wires to the side the wires need to go, either drivers side or passenger side. This helps in lengthening those wires so that later you shouldnít need to cut and lengthen any wires.

As long as your re routing the main harness too under the pinch weld you can also re route the 2 brake lines that run with the main harness on top of the pinch weld to the underside of the pinch weld by just rolling them under the pinch weld and gently pressing the against the main harness that you just placed under the pinch weld. The brake line also helps hold the main harness tight to the underside of the pinch weld.

Once youíve got your entire harnesses together and reconnected hook up the battery and start your car to make sure everything works. Next strap the harnesses in place, reinstall the plastic liner etc. etc. if youíre welding up the inner fenders do the welding first, then reroute your wires. If your wonder I only had to cut and splice 2 different set of wire when I re routed my wires. One set to the A/C compressor and the other set to the Overflow bottle. You may also need a longer positive side battery cable depending on where your battery is located and how you want route the battery cable, and possibly longer starter cable again depend now you want to route the starter cable.


Step Three: Vacuum Lines
As long as you have the plastic fender off now would be the time to hide the (2) Vacuum tree on the upper fire wall. This can be done by putting the vacuum trees under the fenders, one on each side and running new lines through the hole in the inner fenders. Use the factory hole no need to drill new holes. Take the Large Vacuum Tree (Lettering Left to right) S (source), B/R (capped), A/C (air conditioning) S/C (driver side fender), B/B (brake booster) that on the firewall by the brake booster and put it under the driver side fender close to the Speed Control Module, or up high in the fender well as possible.
All you need to do is extend (2) of the rubber hoses (Manifold, Brake Booster) and shorten the hose that comes from the Speed Control Module (cruise control) which is a black looking ball under the driverís side fender. The other smaller vacuum module (not sure what is called) thatís on the passenger side upper fire wall close to the hood hinge. I moved to under the passenger side fender. The basic purpose is for vacuum module is for to the A/C.
I bought a package of air shock tubing (hard plastic line use for filling air shocks $10) because I couldnít find the smaller hard plastic tubing. The air shock tubing has approximately the same inside and outside diameter as the factory plastic tubing and fits snugly on 3/16 wiper tubing (7/32 ID), I also bought approximately 12Ē of 3/16 rubber wiper tubing. Or you could buy 3/16 (7/32 ID) rubber wiper tubing to do it all. Itís just harder to hide the larger diameter rubber hose under the pinch weld.
I cut the factory hard plastic line leaving approximately 3/8 of the plastic line stick past to the stock rubber boot, I then cut a 3/4 ď piece of wiper tubing to couple the 2 ends together. Youíll need some sort of lube (nothing with and oil base) to couple the factory end with rubber boot to the air shock tubing, believe me itís a snug fit. Take a line (hard plastic or rubber) from the larger vacuum tree that youíve put under the drivers side fender and run the line from the tree marked as A/C under the pinch weld to the passenger side through the factory hole in the inner fenders and connect it to the smaller vacuum module. Then take another line (hard plastic or rubber) and run it from the vacuum module back through the same hole and under the pinch weld to the vacuum line that comes out beside the heater lines.

These pictures should help explain how I have things routed.

Wire Hiding pictures by almoststock - Photobucket
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Old September 30th, 2012, 06:59 PM   #13
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You should PM this to a mod and get it sticky-d.
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Old October 1st, 2012, 07:04 PM   #14
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YOU SIR... ARE A GOD!!!!!!!!!
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Old October 1st, 2012, 10:38 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by jeffwpayne View Post
YOU SIR... ARE A GOD!!!!!!!!!
I've been called a lot of things in my life but never that before.
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Old October 2nd, 2012, 04:39 PM   #16
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Rite!! does that mean you'll clean my engine bay for me?? Ha.
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Old October 2nd, 2012, 06:26 PM   #17
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Two things:

1) Are you a teacher, or tutor, or do you just enjoy writing this stuff all up? I'm grateful. I wish everyone who worked on cars were as detailed as you are with explaining stuff. This is one of the best posts I've seen in a long time - completely agree with it being a sticky!
2) Thanks for the ideas on the winter project. I've had it on my mind for a while now but didn't know where to start...now I have the whole map of how to do it! I'll post pics when I hit a snag or finish.
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Old October 2nd, 2012, 07:31 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by Danno View Post
Two things:

1) Are you a teacher, or tutor, or do you just enjoy writing this stuff all up? I'm grateful. I wish everyone who worked on cars were as detailed as you are with explaining stuff. This is one of the best posts I've seen in a long time - completely agree with it being a sticky!
2) Thanks for the ideas on the winter project. I've had it on my mind for a while now but didn't know where to start...now I have the whole map of how to do it! I'll post pics when I hit a snag or finish.
I don't need to write all this stuff up .. it's just copy and paste for me.


Not really sure if I'm teacher or a tutor and the only reason I did that write -up over 11 years ago is because there was probably only 2 or 3 people at that time who had there wires hid and was a hush -hush secret if anyone asked them how the did it.
So I made up mind 11+ years ago that if my wire hiding idea worked that I would tell everyone what it took to do. And since then I have know idea how many people I've help.

3 years later I pulled the dash and re-hid the wires and vacuum line under the dash and moved the TAD, TAB and BAP under the passenger side because I didn't like the way it originally turned out


You need to remember that what I did was on an 89 and other years change, but the basics are there.

Hiding wires under the pinch weld can be done in less than 8 hrs.
Hiding wires under the dash can take you as much as 16 hrs.. oh yeah I have a write-up and pics on that also for those who might be interested
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Old October 2nd, 2012, 07:34 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by jeffwpayne View Post
Rite!! does that mean you'll clean my engine bay for me?? Ha.
Nope
Believe me if I can do it so can you.
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Old October 2nd, 2012, 08:33 PM   #20
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Well, this is what the interior of my car looks like right now, so I'm all ears for how to hide things in the dash before I put it all back together! It started as a simple heater core job and has grow to "fix everything else while I've got it out" job. Please, post more!

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